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3VZ-E VAF help!

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Old 09-05-2014, 03:56 PM
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3VZ-E VAF help!

Been having a few problems with acceleration. Thumbing through my manual I decided just for fun I would check my VAF... It's different than whats in my manual. My manual said to pull the connector and check the resistance on certain terminals. I pulled the connector and well now I cant put it back together. My manual, and what ive seen looks like this. http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...ss_sensor.html

Mine looks like this
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As you can see in this one, there is connectors that hool to each prong. How do i go about getting those reconnected since they're inside the housing???
Old 09-05-2014, 04:07 PM
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I think I figured out what I did wrong...... I'm going to go out on a limb and say I was supposed to pull the connector at the VAF off, not unscrew the two screw wasn't I? Did I just buy myself a new one?
Old 09-05-2014, 04:27 PM
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Yes, you should have parted it at the sliding connector.
Definitely fubared, or nearly so, as is.
Might be possible to disassemble further and resolder the pulled leads, if you are an experienced electronic solderer/repair tech.
You will very likely need another one.
Old 09-05-2014, 04:35 PM
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I just saw that you can cut the silicone and remove the top. I guess Ill try that and see what damage I did. I guess I cant do too much more at this point. I cant believe I did that! Seriously how did I not realize it was a plug?!?!?! Stupid and expensive mistake.
Old 09-05-2014, 05:14 PM
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Alright, I cut the silicone and popped the top off. The only thing I can see that I did is I pulled the female side of the spade connectors of their male post thats coming from the connector I should have unplugged, There was no torn or damaged wires that I could see. I reconnected the wires but it will only start for a few seconds before it sputters to a stop. I'm guessing where points from the plug contact the circuit board, should be soldered in place right? I didn't pull near hard enough to brake the solder joints. They make good contact to the circuit board, shouldn't that be enough to make it run? Also it's been raining and I got a small amount of water in it when I popped the cover off, could it just be due to there being moisture in there, or am I spending $175? I did blow in there to try and dry it off.

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Old 09-05-2014, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by splangeland
.... They make good contact to the circuit board, shouldn't that be enough to make it run? ...
No. (the whole engine vibrates; what would that do to your "good contact"?)

You could use the wiring diagram and a multimeter to try to see what's still broken, http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf , but I think that's a lost cause. In theory you could reverse engineer it and solder everything back together, but it's better just to admit when you're out of your depth.

For what it's worth, the part that isn't working is the "FC" circuit; that's what keeps the fuel pump running after you let go of the key. No FC => starts but then quits.

Yes, it was an "real bad" mistake. You might take some solace in the fact that you aren't the first to do it.
Old 09-05-2014, 06:51 PM
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OK Thanks for the info! I took a hair dryer to it for a while to get the moisture out of it. I found that when I reconnected the spade terminals I made two mistakes. One wire was stopping the rotor? From turning more than a quarter of an inch. The other wire was pushing a metal arm, that touches the rotor, away from the rotor. After getting that squared away it Does start and run like it did before. I know I am in for a new one anyways but I can at least get to work for a couple days while it's on order.

The whole reason I started this venture was because we got a bunch of rain today and until I got warmed up I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it alive. It also seemed to be lacking power, I had to mat the pedal to get up hills. I thought this was going to be an easy check, and should have been lol, so I started there. I owned this 4runner before, see this for the full story,https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/love-reborn-283112/#post52220669 and it had always done this. When I pulled the terminals off it came out very easy, almost no resistance. Now I wonder if that's been the problem ever since I first bought it? Either way, I'll chock this one up as a learning experience.
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