yota.forever

I just wated to share a project i have going on. A 3.0 rebuild. I know its not the greatest engine to have, but i dont have the money to do a swap right now. So, the 3.zero it is.
I'm not a professional mechanic and this thread is not to show anyone the "right way" to build this motor. I just wanted to share the experience and hopefully get some feedback/criticism before I make a mistake.
So I found a deal on a 95 4runner with a head gasket issue. The mi. is up there so I chose to kust tear down the whole engine. Good thing. I found scoring on both the main and rod journals. So i sent the heads, block and crank out for work. The crank was turned down 10/1000 on all the journals. So I ordered a complete rebuild kit on ebay. But I chose to spend the money on oem head gaskets.
I spent sometime cleaning parts and now I'm almost ready to put this back in the runner. Unfortunately I don't have a garage. So I'm building the motor down in my basement. Then I'm going to label everthing, tear it down, and build it again outside and stall it. Plans are for Wednesday.
So here's where I'm at right now. ..

Limited space calls for using other tools to use as tables.. therrs a mixture of cleaned and need to be cleaned parts on my table saw.
The block and crank just before they were put together.

yota.forever

I'm planning to work a little on the heads tonight. The machine shop only resurfaced them and tested for leaks. I'm pulling the valves out to clean everything up then I'll change the valve seals with the new ones from the ebay kit and lap the valves into the seats. I hope the angles on the seats and valves are still good. I already took apart the left side. The guides still feel ok, but I'll have to wait until tomorrow to pick up some lapping compound.
I didn't have a spring compressor and didn't feel like spending $70 for one. So I went to lowes and picked up an 8 inch C clamp, found a couple of old sockets and made one. I think I need to add a washer on the bottom of the socket that sits on the retaining ring to make it alttle more stable. But it works or now, and it only cost me $16!
Here's some pics of the tool...

yota.forever

Here's the clamp in use...

scope103

I know you're probably into this as far as you want to go, but I'd suggest having the machine shop grind the valves and seats. Even "Click and Clack" refer to lapping valves as a rite of passage -- they don't think much of it. The only good way to get the valve geometry right requires using a machine I just don't think I can replicate.

yota.forever

Did they really cancel Car Talk? My guess would be that the brothers finally retired. That is a great show.
I really know where you're comming from as far as the valves are concerned. I just moved out here to Utah a year ago and I have tried two shops. One of them charged me just over $200 to deck the block and the didn't wash out the shavings. Told me that it would cost more to clean it. The other one told me to sand the cam journals with 180 grit sand paper. Thats why I only had him resurface these. Oh, these are a different set of heads I picked up. The cam journals are in way better shape. I still have my original set.
I have always wanted a DIY valve set from Goodson but I dont have the time. Snow is coming and I'd like to get this on the road. Next summer we're building a shop in our backyard wih space to work on a truck, so I'm thinking of a swap next winter. Maybe a 4.3 if a good deal comes along.

xebrex

I am very close to ordering the ebay master engine rebuild kit myself and would very much like to know what you think of it.
I am looking at this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Overhaul-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-Fits-88-92-Toyota-Pickup-4Runner-3-0L-3VZE-/251327830642?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a844e5a72&vxp=mtr
how did you determine if you need oversized bearings or did you go with stock. how do the gaskets look etc.
Thanks
Trent

TFOUR

My rebuild has that kit in it only has 20 miles on it so far so good, I installed weary perfomance cams with mine just make sure you have good oil with zinc in it on break in.

yota.forever

I can't believe it's been 2 years already. The runner is going strong. Had no issues except for a timing head scratcher: I set it be ear and test drove it until it was where I liked, then I set it with a light, terrible results. I went back to doing it by ear.
Here are the pics of the install.

Green

Thanks for the update. I am in between deciding to try and tackle a 3.4 swap or rebuild the 3.0. For lack of time, tools, and a place to work where SWMBO won't kvetch at me every day, I am leaning toward having a shop do the rebuild and install. No one around here seems to have experience in the 3.4 swap and I do not feel like paying to train someone, only to have trouble they won't cover later.

yota.forever

Sorry for such a looong delay to respond. Been out enjoying the weather this summer. Now, it's Fridgin Cold already.

As for the swap of a 3.4. If you can get a decent long block and harness, I'd say go for it! As it is the 3.0 does lack balls considerably. I was thinking of Thorley Headers, but at $1K, I figured I could have bout a 3.4, built that instead of my 3.0 and had better performance AND mileage. I did do a cross-over relocation (crossed under the trans) but that doesn't help with performance. Which is what the 3.0 needs. Hind sight I guess.I should have listened to the guys telling me to do the swap. In the end the swap is the better bargain..