JD

The 302 post below reminded me to do an update.

I’ve now finished the replacement 347 build and it’s installed. Besides fitting the stroker I decided to build this engine for torque and mpg so the cams ground accordingly and although peak hp will only be at 5800 it should still make some good numbers.

I also did a complete redesign of the accessory brackets and this time used a Ford P/S, A/C and Alternator. Also fabbed a new alloy airbox to suit a larger 80mm Accufab race throttle body and a 90mm Ford Lightning maf.

At the same time I did a quick repaint of the engine area and incorporated some side guard covers for the various wiring etc.

Here’s a series of various install pics.

Engine built and fitted the injection and time for a paint, so first the undercoat. I always paint my engines for various reasons. One they look better but it also allows for easy identification of any leaks etc but mainly as I do a lot of beach driving it helps to keep seawater rust at bay.



All done and a quick trial fit of accessories.





At this point I was planning on swinging it in the next night but got stuck on considering whether I should take the opportunity to give the engine bay area a spruce up as the paint was now a shade of pink rather than Mica red. Procrastinated for hours and eventually decided I’d better do it otherwise I would always be kicking myself. As it involved a lot of preparation I also couldn’t make up my mind whether to get my painter mate to come do it properly or just do it using cans etc. But spraycans it was so first a quick clean and prep and hit it with undercoat.

You can just see the colour difference of the red front right guard compared to the engine area which is a faded reddish/pink.



Undercoated



Done





Fast forward and its now in



My rad was now 15 years old so I decided to get a new one for this engine and decided to try an alloy rad. It has the same surface area as my old one being 450mm wide and 500mm deep but its thinner being only 32mm thick and a single core. I don’t espouse to the theory that thicker is better and am more than confident that this smaller rad will still keep things under control no problems.





Fan fit. The bottom section of the viscous hub is about 20mm from the rad so overall clearance is great.



New A/C condenser and revised fans now permanently fitted.



About now I had another spaz attack as the discoloured top rad support and guard area were getting to me as the rest looked spiff so I masked it up and gave it a shot



The front done with the aircon fitted along with the winch.

BEFORE



NOW



Also gave the winch a service.

BEFORE



NOW



Underside of winch showing air holes in my custom winch cradle that match the factory body holes etc.



Before getting to finally mounting the radiator I had to make a new shroud. Even though it's fairly large it took me days to find the fibreglass shroud floppy I made back in 1993/94 so it shows what a mess my parts shed is in . I knew I wouldn't have thrown it out and finally found it and did another shroud from it.

The basic rule is the fan needs to be 2/3 in and 1/3 out of the shroud.



Next was to slope the shroud as the fan sits on an angle at the rad so the bottom needs to be shorter to maintain this 1/3 clearance etc. Initially I was making it as a one piece unit but went back to two piece so as to be able to access the fan a lot easier by being easily able to remove the top section.

I am really happy with this complete frontal redesign as I have so much easier access to everything than the original design. The rad is also positioned a lot better being a tad thinner so there is now heaps of clearance between the rad and air condensor whereas before they were touching, yet I never had heating issues and why I am confident that even with this smaller rad all these issues will mean it will be just as efficient and possibly even colder



Finished the rad shroud and the rads now done.









All finally done.







Previously I just had a hole in the cover and squished an o ring on a capscrew head but because of the vacuum and the small head sealing they leaked air so I used to just fill them with selastic .

But I've had the cover machined to now use a special cup that has a machined V shape on the underside and the o ring is now squished into this V shape around the bolt and it should seal perfect.











I revised the airbox and the quick removable MAF section





The plastic cover I made to hide the various wires, cables and the fuel pressure reg.









I actually started it for the first time last Sunday but the belt is slipping badly on the P/S pulley so I’m currently fitting an idler pulley to give it more contact. Once I’ve done a few miles it will be going on a dyno to have the ecu retuned to suit the various additions.

JD

874runnersr5

holy moly, thats sick man
keep up the good work

Cwaters1184

very nice! how much you charge

Junkers88

I want to crawl in there, close the hood slowly and make dirty passionate love to that motor........



Nice job!!!!

RMA

Dude that is super nice, I wish I had all that time , aaand patience and know how.

TOYOTA 1

perfection!!!

d71889b

x2 you have built me my dream truck, when can i come pick it up??!!

very very good job

amazing work!

JD

I should have also posted a few pics of the actual engine build


First determining the factory deck height in order to have the block decked to suit the new 347 pistons.





Block now decked, bored and ready for assembly





Previously polished lightweight crank fitted





¾” alloy girdle, SVO mini windich tray and modified Moroso oil pickup now fitted using ARP studs





Checking crankshaft end play





Rouse Racing NASCAR timing chain fitted





Dialling in the cam using Lift at TDC method





General cleanup of current AFR185 alloy heads





Setting valve spring height using spring micrometer





Heads installed and setting Jesel rocker to ascertain correct rocker geometry





Checking final rocker geometry





All done and ready for injection and paint job

KONASTAR

Your truck is very well put together!
Professional job!

I wished i documented & took pics of my build up.
It took me 3-years of saving (i have a mortage), aquiring the parts & 3 1/2 months to put it all together including the engine & tranny rebuild & all the fabrication work.

Sure is worth it though!

Mike
__________________________

85 Toyota p/u 4X4 & matching trailer
SBC 327 .040, TH350, NP 202, Tom Woods Drivelines
Narrowed HD Dana 44, Moser axles, Ected Locker
Narrowed Dana 60, Detriot locker, Yukon 35 spline
High steer, PSC Hyd. Ram assist.

YoYoMa

Nice fordrunner, Clean installation, looks factory...Savage.

Jay351

Thats beautiful! Lets get some videos of you driving it! Very very clean install!!

Junkers88

Do you do machine work or engine builds for a living? I ask because you have tools in the pictures that I've never even heard of. Great build, very nice write up.

Thanks for making the rest of us feel like rookies.

JD

Thanks for the comments guys.

Once I do a few miles and then get it dyno tuned I'll take some vids and post them. The dyno tune should be interesting as although the cam is ground for torque and mpg and peak hp is only around 5800rpm a mild stab of the gas pedal indicates it will have some grunt.

I reckon 300RWHP will be easy but how far over it's hard to say. I should be able to finally go for a run over Easter as long as there's no major issues

Junkers88

I want to crawl in there, close the hood slowly and make dirty passionate love to that motor........

ROFLMO. 8 stack blow job

Do you do machine work or engine builds for a living?

Nope, just prefer to do my own thing and obviously the right tools help

JD

Guys, sincere apologies.

As a result of a recent PC crash I was doing a transfer of data and found this old link and realised I hadn't kept it updated so a huge apology to those that had posted previous comments.

It's been 4 years so a lot has happened since my original post.

Starting with in August 2009 I decided to fabricate a new upper injection system as the 8 stack although it worked extremely well, it was not easy to remove when needed, so I required something a little more simple and after some thought decided on using a lower tunnel ram manifold as a base for a new system.

I won't post all the detailed pics but this new setup had to provide easy access to all areas of the engine and be super simple. I also wanted to have both fuel rails intact rather than having to loop the left one around the throttle body as before. I first did a lot of preplanning and making templates to work out precise clearances and I started with this to get some idea.



First job was to fit alloy injector bosses into the tunnel ram and this angle had to be precise as a lot of other clearances depended on their position so I made this frame to hold the bosses exactly where I wanted them welded.



Using my old engine as a guide next was to make the actual top air box to the same specifications as the wooden mock up as everything had been pre determined to suit its dimensions and I started with a base plate and then added the sides and a throttle body plate.





Cut an 80mm TB hole and after some extensive filing etc I finished with this.





Next was to have some brackets welded to the manifold so the fuel rails were in the right position and by using small Deka injectors it was able to pass under he TB.







Added a bit of paint and also water outlets into the rear of the heads to avoid airlocks and hot spots and a outlet for the in car heater.



Covers painted and manifold fitted with fuel and engine harnesss ready for the top section.



Top secton painted and fitted with o rings on the lid section and TB.



Fitted









All hooked up the the airbox.





I also planned to fabricate a complete engine cover and started with a several wooded mockups and settled for this style.



After many trips to an alloy welder guy and a lot of sanding etc I ended up with this. Its a one piece unit and lifts off.











After some paint it was all finished and how it is today, for the moment







There was a lot of work involved to fabricate this setup but these pics will give an idea what it was all about as the top manifold section could now be removed in under 4 minutes, if required so this objective was achieved.

I never got to putting the 8 stack on the dyno as it ran fine with its previous existing tune but this manifold required a retune due to now using the smaller 60lb Deka injectors so the ECC needed a J3 chip etc.

Again my sincere apologies but I will update now and also post details on an interior update

I'll post more updates tomorrow .

JD

JD

Here's a quick vid of it finally on a dyno getting a retune with this custom tunnel ram efi manifold.


During the tuning and testing we did discover that my air cleaner setup is now not large enough for the 347 as a dyno run with the filter exposed it made an extra 14hp!!!!. Something I need to fix

The idle vids on page 1 were when it was a 5.0 with the 8 stack injection and a Comp Cam XE264HR, which is a strong cam, whereas I am now using a mpg cam as can be seen by its low rpm max power but surprisingly it still made good power. Makes me want to swap the 264 back in and see what she does

But mpg was what this engine was built for as I do long trips so its super important. Nothing is overstressed so it will cruise for hours on end, it idles like a stocker and its super smooth at low speeds.

The final tuned run was affected a tad with heat soak and there is the airflow loss of 14hp but I'm happy with its outcome.

345.6 RWHP @ 5600rpm
350 ftlbs@4300 rpm



It goes without saying that from a driving perspective it is super responsive and smooth with great progressive power and a joy to drive as everything is so effortless.

But its now 2013 so there's another change in the wind

JD

JD

I finished this custom tunnel ram manifold in Dec 2010.

Just prior to June 2012 I was giving serious consideration to updating and did a lot of research on purchasing a 3rd generation 4Runner and fitting it with a Coyote V8 and a T56 6 speed. However, eventually I decided whilst I would love to have this engine the end result would still basically be what I already had, a V8 4Runner.

I then figured to quell this urge I had to do something to my 4runner to make it feel a little different and the best way would be to do something inside and a basic dash/console change should do the trick.

Although I had recently modified the dash to accept the wider later model Toy radio this time I would go for an all bells and whistles job with GPS, DVD, etc etc.

I started by getting two dash angle plastics from an Aussie Falcon and using a mini grinder cut a slot in an existing dash section to get the console angle look.





This looked promising but as this new console would now exceed the existing passenger side tunnel width I had to design and fabricate a wider lower support.





The initial left side section trial fit.



I then fabricated a matching height center console support.



I then made a RHS support and as the outcome was now looking encouraging I started on final incorporation of the RHS Falcon panel into the existing dash panels. It took some careful planning and plastic grinding of my existing dash to also fit a small false side panel to match it all up but it worked out perfect.









More later

JD

Team420

Damn dude! I gotta say... I usually cringe when I see people swapping out a yota motor for a ford or chevy, but you sir, have done this truck justice!! This might be the nicest looking & sounding swap I have ever seen! Cant believe this thread is 4 years old, and I'm just now seeing it.

JD

Cheers mate.

I did the V8 swap back in 1993 when my 4Runner was still under Toyota warranty so needless to say they weren't entirely happy I ditched their engine . Back then it would have been the worlds first 2nd generation V8 swap. When the net was subsequently "invented" I posted details on many 4wd forums so its been around awhile and its istill on a few of the earlier forums.
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The console side panels are from cutting up a Mazda console that I cut up to suit





I then visited a wreckers and got some lever surrounds from a late model Toyota Landcruiser Prado and made several wooden moulds to determine spacing and also allow space for additional items.



I was then able to bend a steel plate at the right angle and cut holes for gauges.





Wiring up the gauges and switches was a nightmare.



Carpeted the center console height frame in Toyota gray carpet but the flash in some pics makes it look lighter.



JD

Whitey13

Mind=blown.

JD

Not a good pic but I fitted a small plate off the rearview mirror mount for the radios GPS antenna and ran its wire down the side windscreen panel. Also ran the reverse cameras wires up the center column and along the rear roof edging and mounted the camera on a support from the rear wiper.







While the dash project was being done I also had another going at the same time

I obtained a Camry steering column with a leather wheel that has steering controls for the radio and phone and planned to adapt this to the 4Runner. The Camry column can also be extended as well as tilted but a problem was its steering lock position didn't suit the 4Runners location. But I figured out how to incorporate the wheel and its controls onto the 4Runners column. It wasn't easy but possible. Later I hope to get to adding the Camry's wheel plastics and fancier wiper and light controls etc.









I plastic welded angled gauge bezels into the console.



It was now basically done and time to add some bling and get the Mazda and Ford plastics match painted to Toyota gray. I didn't take a specific pic but the front of the Mazda side panel is also slotted into the Toyota glove panel.





The pics posted are only a basic outline of the work involved as it actually took months to do as there were many issues I had to overcome and then figure out solutions. I also redid many aspects several times to get it right etc and even many small seemingly simple issues actually took days or weeks to get them right. I went threw a heap of Falcon side panels trying to bend them to the right angled shape using an oxy flame before I finally brought a Bosch heat gun and got the hang of it

Finished pics tomorrow guys

JD