StangBanger

First off.. Ive searched all night and Ive found soo much mixed up info that im actually more lost now than I was when I started looking..I have an 89 4runner 3.0 5 speed. I have rear sag and i wanna fix it. So i figure i might as well lift it while im at it. I would like to run 35's but that would require me to beef up too much for me to afford right now. So i plan on running 33x10.50's on the stock wheels or maybe getting some new wheels and running 33x12.50. My question is, I want a lift that will allow me to run the 33's but much...much later on i would like to upgrade it to fit 35's. Looking for a kit because i have no clue how to match shocks with whatever amount of travel i have so that they dont top out. What would you guys recommend? I plan on keeping leafs in the rear and the IFS. I would like to stay away from body lifts and blocks but I'm willing to throw on 1"BL to avoid rubbing. For you guys running 33's on 1st gen 4runners..
Some pics..because we all love to look..

drew303

you could fit 33x10.5's with with balljoint spacers and rear shackles, maybe some slight tubbing upfront, maybe not. Throw in a 1" bodylift and you're set.

12.5's would require more clearancing.

Gonna want 4.88 or 5.29 gears tho.

Fitting 35's without replacing the whole suspension requires a lot of trimming and trust me it's been done, lol

You can stuff 35's under there with a body lift and IFR bracket lift and some blocks in the rear. But what does that do for you? Makes you look rediculous IMO

Best route to fit 35's *is* a Solid Axle Swap. Otherwise stick to the 33's and stock suspension, with F/R lockers that thing will go more places than you'll probably ever take it.

have fun

drew303

I should mention my rig has 31's currently but I have a 2" bodylift, balljoint spacers, and rear shackles...eh forget length i wanna say 2" over stock, so thats like 5.5 i think... dont quote me on that.

I'll be putting on 33x10.5's BFG muds as soon as funds permit, my mudrovers are getting bald quick. Those tires won't rub and we have the same front fender setup.

Eventually, maybe even this summer I'll be swapping the bed off for my own custom deal and a Solid Axle conversion in the front with 3" TG springs. I however, will be able to clear 35's but don't plan to ever go that big.

and ill be using 5.29 gearing, 4.7 transfercase and a softlocker in the rear with a truetrac in the front.

fyi

StangBanger

Ohh no for sure i know 35's will require much more "massaging" for them to fit with no rubbing but i guess BJ spacers and shackles in the rear would be the quick fix for the 33's. What about shocks? Could i just replace those with some stocks or would i need some special shocks because of the lift from shackles and BJ spacers? And what size shackles would you recommend. And where can i find some BJ spacers?

StangBanger

Nice..Hey man ive been hunting down some Dunlop mudrovers with no success. You know where i can find some 33x10.50's?

Matt16

Doesn't appear that Dunlop Mud Rovers are made in 33x10.5r15. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....dial+Mud+Rover

BFG KM2 and MTs are the only name brand mud tire I know of made in a 33x10.5r15

StangBanger

i tried tirerack..they have them listed but when you go to order them they say they dont have them in stock..

olharleyman

35x12.5's on SAS 4"front 5" rears no trimming 22re 5 speed 5.29's 4.88 will not work so well

35x12.5's on 4" Pro Comp Bracket lift with trimming still need a tad more lift bj spacers maybe the answer or cranking the t-bars ( light rubbing at full lock left or right zero crank on them now but gonna be just a mall crawler tow rig for the one above from now on after super charged 3.4 is finished) 3.0 5 speed 5.29's again 4.88's not so good idea 5.29 or 5.71's best options

StangBanger

Nice runners..

Matt16

4Crawler and Elripster on this board sell BJ spacers. The spacers aren't going to help you fit tires though as when the tire is "stuffed" into the wheel well, its going to be at the position whether or not you have BJ spacers. I'd just go nuts with a hammer and tub out wherever it rubs and level the rear with shackles.

StangBanger

Im by no means a pro..or a fabricator..but from the looks of the wheel wells on my 89 4rnr..Rolling my fenders wont be enough for full flex if im on 33x10.50's.. And im kinda iffy at cutting them because i wouldnt want to screw up the lines of the fenders.. and im sure i wouldnt get them str8..And ur saying even though the shackles would lift up the rear a bit to level me out..it still wouldnt help clear the rear tires? What size shackles would i need to level out a bit of sag with BJ spacers up front? And the BJ spacers give about 1.5 lift right?

Matt16

I don't know about 1st gens, but they fit second gens fine. I thought 33x10.5s fit 1st gens as well though.

drew303

Well actually, the bj spacers do lower the wheel down 1.5" from stock location. So at full 'stuff'.. the wheel hub is 1.5" lower than it'd normally be.

Some slight tubbing may be required without any body lift. but front fender cutting isn't neccessary.

To the OP, tubbing is when you bang in the inner fender well for more room 'inside' the fender. You sometimes have to cut the pinchweld and smash in the inner fender in the rear. (like where your feet are)

drew303

2" Spacers?

I wouldn't do that. Brian sells a 2" spacer? Thats counter-productive. Theres a reason we can't use anything past 1.5" .. cuz of cv angles. It's borderline with the 1.5" spacers as is. 2" would cause serious binding.

StangBanger

? where did that come from. Havent read anything in this thread about 2" spacers?

drew303

I think he's just calling it a 2" lift. I highly doubt those are 2" spacers. But none the less, Brian should probably re-word that.

nmtoy

If I were you I would do 1 1/2" ball joint spacers in front and new leaf springs in the rear. You will need 2" longer shocks also.

An add a leaf will make your rear springs really stiff and limit rear flex.

My 86 has this setup along with some hammering of the pinch weld at the rear of the front fenders and the tires don't rub.

I have about 2" of lift and plenty of clearance for 33x10.50 on a 7" rim. 33x12.50 would rub like crazy and 35's would not fit.

stock

now


Once you start down this road The bottomless money pit opens!

I would also recommend an idler arm brace and an ifs truss and 4.88 gears. I also did Stainless steel brake lines because the rear was a little short,

Hope this helps.

Robb

Junkers88

Man that's a good looking little truck following you there, wonder who that is.......


OP. A set of 3" downey's in the back and some 1 1/2BJ spacers in the front will give you plenty of lift for 33/10.50's. If you do plan on going with 35's later on I'd recommend a 4" bracket lift for the front and higher lift springs for the rear.

And yes it very quickly becomes a money pit.

No 33's yet since I have the same flat rear end that most of us running 1st gens have. When I can afford the lift I'm doing pretty much the same thing that NMtoy did on his. Then it's 33/10.15/15 KM2's on the stock SR5 alloys.

pic. The 31's are as stuffed as they can go, which isn't much.


saggy bottom.

gary96360

[QUOTE=nmtoy;51116317]An add a leaf will make your rear springs really stiff and limit rear flex.

so does the add a leaf make the leafs more stiff if your leafs are resting against the super thick overloadbefore having the aal installed.

Matt16

Nope. At full stuff, the UCA is 1.5" higher than where it would be without BJSs. The LCA contacts a bumpstop that limits uptravel, not the UCA.