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3.0L heads

Old 07-17-2012, 11:56 AM
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3.0L heads

Are all the 3.0L heads the same or did they change them throughout the years? As in can i take a head off of a 94 3vze and put it onto my 90?
Only reason i come to think they are different is the rebuild kits are listed as different so are they different i need some help here.

Last edited by cheap-ass; 07-17-2012 at 03:28 PM.
Old 07-18-2012, 09:21 AM
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Not sure but you should be able to call the parts store at the dealership to find out.
Old 07-18-2012, 09:33 AM
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Heads are the same. However if your going to swap heads be sure the valve train is in the exact same places they were. Camshafts/shims/buckets need to be left in the exact same places they have been... unless your putting all new?

If you go swaping around shims and buckets and cams excessive wear and damage can result....
Old 07-18-2012, 11:22 AM
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3VZ-E heads are NOT all the same.

Notable cylinder head and timing component differences between years are as described below.
Cylinder heads
The cylinder heads are unique from left to right due to a spot for the distributor, although you can convert the heads by changing the caps and line boring the cylinder head. The early cylinder heads (’88 through ’90) had a smaller pilot hole for the distributor than the later ones which were 10mm.

To make a universal application, some shops have successfully machined the pilot holes to 10mm to fit later applications. This can be done without any problems if used on an earlier application with the smaller piloted distributor. The left and right camshafts did not change throughout the life span of the motor.

Timing components
The belt tensioner used from ’88-’92 was a spring loaded tensioner (Toyota p/n 13505-65020). In 1993 the tensioner went to a hydraulic style (Toyota p/n 13505-65040) (see photo on page 38). To accommodate this change, the front of the right-hand cylinder head has a machined recess and a drilled and tapped hole. Earlier heads may be machined to be adapted if necessary.

The timing belt was also changed to accommodate the difference in the tensioner at the same time. If you are supplying water pumps, be aware of a couple of things to watch out for (see photo on page 39). Different applications had a bypass nipple while some did not.

The best bet is to have the customer identify which pump they have. From ’88-’92 the water pump must have a locator pin at one end for the spring on the timing tensioner. The 1993 and later water pumps did not have the pin. The pin can be knocked out on new and remanufactured water pumps that have the pin if it is not needed for the later applications.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Item...ta_30l_v6.aspx

Last edited by MudHippy; 07-18-2012 at 11:23 AM.
Old 07-19-2012, 05:57 AM
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Very interesting. Those very little differences.... did not know that. I've never really worked with an early model 3.0 just very late models.

Cool information. They all seemed the same but i guess those are very important differences. ^_^

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Old 07-19-2012, 06:41 AM
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Another little known, and noteworthy, fact is the "revision" of valve clearance specifications. Which occured at some point after 1988.

In 88 the valve clearance specs were...

Intake: .010" - .014"(.25mm - .35mm)
Exhaust: .011" - .015"(.27mm - .37mm)

The revised valve clearance specs are now...

Intake: .007" – .011"(.18mm – .28mm)
Exhaust: .009" – .013"(.22mm – .32 mm)

And, being that the valvetrain components were never changed, the revised clearance specifications can/should be applied to all years.
Old 07-19-2012, 06:49 AM
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Wow also very interesting. Could explain why the couple 88s i've seen have valve train noise. Facianting...

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Old 07-19-2012, 06:54 AM
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I discovered it after removing some primer covering the sticker under the hood on mine.


Then I filled in the blanks with MS Paint to make it more readable(mispelling emission and neutral in the process...).

Last edited by MudHippy; 07-19-2012 at 07:15 AM.
Old 07-19-2012, 11:54 PM
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^Good stuff

^_^
Old 07-20-2012, 08:02 AM
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I'm not sure why you would want heads from a different year. Doesn't sound like they are that swappable. If you are looking for performance I do not think there is much that can be done compared to say a '60s Ford, Chevy or Chrystler. But you can do some things that will help. Depends on skill, time and patience. You could port match the heads to the intake and exhaust, which is usually a starting point with any performance modification. If you were so inclined you could CC the head, which balances the engine out more, making for a longer lasting engine with snappy response and decreases power robbing harmonics. You could install larger valves or give them a performance grind. Otherwise I would not swap out heads. Sounds like a major headache in the making. Good luck...
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:55 PM
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Does engnbldr still have over sized valves for the 3.0?
Old 07-20-2012, 01:19 PM
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I have no idea, but would think that they are not offered, however, in theory one could find an appropriate size valve and have it machined to fit or have them custom made, but that sounds rediculous as it seems more expensive than its worth
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