xfactor203

So, I have a '94 4runner with the 3.0 and I am pretty sure it's overdue for a 60k valve adjustment. I have heard that deferring this maintenance is a bad idea as it can lead to burned valves.

So, a couple questions for the masses. . .

1.) I should do this, right? It's true that bad things will eventually happen if I ignore it?

2.) Just how bad is it to do in a home garage setting? It looks like kind of a PITA. I am a reasonably experienced home mechanic (successful engine swap in my past, have done ALL maintenance and repair on all vehicles owned by myself and my wife for the last 6 years or so) with a decent selection of tools and a garage to work in. This is a 2nd vehicle, so it wouldn't be the end of the world if it sat for a week or two while I waited on shims. However, I don't have a lot of time to throw at this, so hands-on time needs to add up to less than a weekend.

3. Assuming I cave and pay someone to do it for me, can anyone recommend a mechanic in N. CO (I'm in Ft. Collins) for this job? I called a few places today and got estimates of $350-400 labor + shims and valve cover gaskets (yikes!). Seems like this is the going rate, but maybe someone knows something (someone?) I don't?

offset442

its a PIA because if you dont have or cant fake the special tools for retrieving and placing the shims you have to take the cams out which involves the timing belt and a whole lot more however you can order the tools then its just removing the intake and the covers, but the down side it the shims are still $20 - $40 for each on that needs adjusted up side to doing it your self the mechanic will not just simply rip your wireing harness apparent and other breakables to make haste of the job and the tools are only maybe 150 so you can save a lot of money and damage by doing it your self, once you have the tools its just a feeler gauge test some manual motor turning and the pry and pick game with the tools with the right tools i would call it only slightly more difficult than making rocker arm adjustments but it is however a more tedious process because you have to calculate the replacement shims for each adjustment then got to the parts store and buy/order them.

for the first 100,000 miles your probably ok but after that if you dont at least check with the feeler gauges every 60 k your asking for a $600 per head valve job a flat hard fact.........you can watch compression but it wont tell you anything until its too late by the time compression comes into play you will have a low speed misfire code in the computer, once the valve stats loosing contact with the seat its usually burned and then becomes a candidate for breaking off and destroying the piston and cylinder...........