3.0 Valve Adjustment
03-14-2006, 07:26 AM
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3.0 Valve Adjustment
I am New to the Forums and New to Wrenching on Vehicles. I am in Search of Oil Leaks and Trying to Find out Why I am hearing a Knocking or Tapping Sound Coming From the Drivers Side of the Engine Compartment. I am Going to Remove the Intake Plenum to Look Around and I am Going to Attempt to Adjust the Valves Myself. The Knock or Tap goes away at Idle but Gets Louder and Faster with RPM's? Sounds Like a Exhaust Leak?? But Kind of a Tappy Sound to it. I can't Find much in my Haynes Manual for 3.0 Valve Adjustment. They have info on the 2.4 but nothing on 3.0. the Vehicle has about 287,000 miles on it has Plenty of Power and Runs Great other then the Tapping Sound/Oil Leaks. Had a Timing Belt job at 284,000 by Another Owner. Makes me Wonder why I Found it at a Buy Here Pay Here for $1700.00 But I knew the Truck Needed a little work when I Bought it. I Figured it Would be a Good Rig to Learn on and Wheel. I Have a Couple of Questions for you Guys Before I get Started. Wish me Luck!
1 Any Job Specific Tools Needed
2 After I Remove the Timing Belt can I Rotate the Camshafts 360 Without Problems? As Long as my Marks Line up is it OK?
3 What Seals Would You Guys Recommend I Change out While I am in there Camshafts/Front Crank Seal/Valve Cover Gaskets/Intake and Exhaust Manifold Gaskets ETC....
4 Any Parts? Water Pump,Oil Pump ETC?
5 The Front of the Motor is Dry So I think the Leak is in the Top End Somewhere? Will I be able to find it When I remove the Plenum?
Any Tips or Advice Will be Greatly Appreciated! Thanks In Advance For Your help!
Dax
1 Any Job Specific Tools Needed
2 After I Remove the Timing Belt can I Rotate the Camshafts 360 Without Problems? As Long as my Marks Line up is it OK?
3 What Seals Would You Guys Recommend I Change out While I am in there Camshafts/Front Crank Seal/Valve Cover Gaskets/Intake and Exhaust Manifold Gaskets ETC....
4 Any Parts? Water Pump,Oil Pump ETC?
5 The Front of the Motor is Dry So I think the Leak is in the Top End Somewhere? Will I be able to find it When I remove the Plenum?
Any Tips or Advice Will be Greatly Appreciated! Thanks In Advance For Your help!
Dax
03-14-2006, 01:48 PM
#2
The tapping you are hearing may be the injectors snapping open and closed. The 3.0 is known for having loud injectors. Mine are pretty quiet below about 2500 RPM, but above that, they are pretty clicky.
Check for a leak around the oil cooler. It's on the driver's side of the block just about even with the top of the shock absorber stud/nut. It looks like a big round donut with a really big nut in the center. There is an O-ring that seals the cooler to the block, that is occasionally known to leak.
Mike in AR
Check for a leak around the oil cooler. It's on the driver's side of the block just about even with the top of the shock absorber stud/nut. It looks like a big round donut with a really big nut in the center. There is an O-ring that seals the cooler to the block, that is occasionally known to leak.
Mike in AR
03-14-2006, 02:05 PM
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Ok, just did this.....so here ya go....... if your gonna adjust the valves.....its a PITA... plenum has to come off, cus you obviously cant get to the passenger side with it on.... TAKE PICTURES OF YOUR VACCUM LINES........ Buy the Special Service Tool......i bought mine from AMAZON.com for 11.99$ ebay has em for like 30$...
Get a GOOOD set of feeler gauges..... exhaust valves needs to be between .009 to .013 clearance ------ Intake needs to be .007 to .011 clearance.... On the loose side Is better than on the tight side for the exhaust valves. When you get the right size feeler gauge in and it feels right, write it down. If it is outta specs ....
You take the Valve cover off, grab the camshaft with the special service tool, basically round pliers....... It has a lobe on them just like the cam, and you turn the SST until the Lifter is pushed down. Put the little service wrench looking thing, on the outer part of the lifter and pop out the VALVE SHIM.....( you gotta get creative on angles I used a smallllllll flathead screwdriver and a magnet to get mine out of the bucket)
once you get out the valve shim MIC it..... Figure out the difffernce between the feeler gauge and the shim, and you can get back into specs by adding the difference together...... NOTE ***( when you go to TOYOTA to buy your valve shims, the NUMBER on the shims are NOT the measurement, they are simply the number they use to differintiate between their shims. THE TOYOTA SERVICE MANUAL has a CHART that tells you what # each one is.
Your gonna have a heck of a time NOT HARD just time consuming...............
Why do you want to remove the timing belt?
If it aint broke, dont fix it unless you have to!
Good Luck if ya need anything else hollar!
Get a GOOOD set of feeler gauges..... exhaust valves needs to be between .009 to .013 clearance ------ Intake needs to be .007 to .011 clearance.... On the loose side Is better than on the tight side for the exhaust valves. When you get the right size feeler gauge in and it feels right, write it down. If it is outta specs ....
You take the Valve cover off, grab the camshaft with the special service tool, basically round pliers....... It has a lobe on them just like the cam, and you turn the SST until the Lifter is pushed down. Put the little service wrench looking thing, on the outer part of the lifter and pop out the VALVE SHIM.....( you gotta get creative on angles I used a smallllllll flathead screwdriver and a magnet to get mine out of the bucket)
once you get out the valve shim MIC it..... Figure out the difffernce between the feeler gauge and the shim, and you can get back into specs by adding the difference together...... NOTE ***( when you go to TOYOTA to buy your valve shims, the NUMBER on the shims are NOT the measurement, they are simply the number they use to differintiate between their shims. THE TOYOTA SERVICE MANUAL has a CHART that tells you what # each one is.
Your gonna have a heck of a time NOT HARD just time consuming...............
Why do you want to remove the timing belt?
If it aint broke, dont fix it unless you have to!
Good Luck if ya need anything else hollar!
03-14-2006, 02:13 PM
#5
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Valves on this motor adjust with shims sets, which are available from the dealer. There is a special valve spring compressor tool, can be found on E-Bay or other. Looks like a fancy pair of pliers, maybe $20.00.
Read through this link, find the valve adjust procedure, see if it is within your ability and willingness to do yourself.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html
If not, you can remove the heads and take them to a shop for adjust. You can replace the head gaskets if you do this. Purchse new head bolts if you go this far. At that point, a majority of the engine will be apart, so it is easy to replace water pump, timing belt, belt pulleys, oil pump (would need to drop pan).
The seals you mention are probably good ideas... depending on how far the engine is taken apart some might be obvious or mandatory anyway.
The factory exhaust design causes problems with valve 6, so if you find yours damaged, you may want to consider adding headers as this helps... if you have the funds.
Cams have to be removed to adjust valves (I think), so rely on the timing marks like you mentioned when you put it all together.
Now that I have said all this, you might just want to check the valve cover gaskets first. They are very easy to replace (relativly) and may be the cause of your top end leak.
Partsdinosoaur and Engnbuilder.coms have lots of the parts you might need.
Best of luck.
Read through this link, find the valve adjust procedure, see if it is within your ability and willingness to do yourself.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html
If not, you can remove the heads and take them to a shop for adjust. You can replace the head gaskets if you do this. Purchse new head bolts if you go this far. At that point, a majority of the engine will be apart, so it is easy to replace water pump, timing belt, belt pulleys, oil pump (would need to drop pan).
The seals you mention are probably good ideas... depending on how far the engine is taken apart some might be obvious or mandatory anyway.
The factory exhaust design causes problems with valve 6, so if you find yours damaged, you may want to consider adding headers as this helps... if you have the funds.
Cams have to be removed to adjust valves (I think), so rely on the timing marks like you mentioned when you put it all together.
Now that I have said all this, you might just want to check the valve cover gaskets first. They are very easy to replace (relativly) and may be the cause of your top end leak.
Partsdinosoaur and Engnbuilder.coms have lots of the parts you might need.
Best of luck.
03-14-2006, 05:15 PM
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Thank You for the Help Guys! I have to say I am a Bit Intimidated by all of the Vacuum Lines on top of the Plenum ETC. Do all of the Lines have to be Removed or Can I pull the Whole Plenum off Leaving Most of Lines in Tact. How much can I expect to Pay a Machine Shop to Rebuild the heads? I hope it is a Valve Ticking and Not Piston Slap it is Pretty Loud! It Sounds just Like a Diesel Engine. Whatever is leaking it is Leaking all over the Front Differential I have a Tiny Bit coming out of the Little Hole in the Transmission "I think that is Rear Main Seal Issue" I will Address that Problem Later. For Now I have to Eliminate the Tapping and Locate The Bad Oil Leaks.
Thanks Alot Guys
Dax
Thanks Alot Guys
Dax
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03-14-2006, 07:36 PM
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I found out a few Things out about the Truck Tonight. With my Hillbilly Stethoscope I listened to the Valves Through the Cover "Driverside" And it is Absolutely Quiet! On to the Injectors "Driverside" Loud as Can be! So I am going to Blow off the Valve Job and Hunt for Leaks. It Seems like the back of my Power Steering pump is Leaking? I did Find Lots of oil Underneath the Oil Cooler Hose Insulation I peeled it off Cleaned things up and Could'nt Find the Leak???? The Power Steering Pump is Covered with Gunk. But, I dont think that Alone Could cause the Mess this Truck is Getting in. I let the Engine Run while I was underneath it for about an Hour and the Bolts that hold the Transmission to the Motor Kept getting Soaked with Oil and then Dripping onto the Differential?? No oil was Coming out of the Little "weep hole" I Call it But the Bolts Kept Getting Saturated With Oil about every 6 or 7 Minutes. I Could'nt Find the Culprit any Ideas..
Thanks
Dax
Thanks
Dax
03-14-2006, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by regularguy412
The tapping you are hearing may be the injectors snapping open and closed. The 3.0 is known for having loud injectors. Mine are pretty quiet below about 2500 RPM, but above that, they are pretty clicky.
Check for a leak around the oil cooler. It's on the driver's side of the block just about even with the top of the shock absorber stud/nut. It looks like a big round donut with a really big nut in the center. There is an O-ring that seals the cooler to the block, that is occasionally known to leak.
Mike in AR
Check for a leak around the oil cooler. It's on the driver's side of the block just about even with the top of the shock absorber stud/nut. It looks like a big round donut with a really big nut in the center. There is an O-ring that seals the cooler to the block, that is occasionally known to leak.
Mike in AR
The Driver Side of the Engine is Really Dry? The Passenger Side is a Another Story. You were Right about the Injectors they are Super Loud! Now if I Can Locate these Leaks I will have a Nice Runner!
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