3.0 Stalled Won't Start No Spark
#1
3.0 Stalled Won't Start No Spark
Driving down the interstate my 4Runner Misfired a couple of times, stalled, coasted to the side of the road and wouldn't start. Towed home, replaced Coil wire because I have had trouble with it and never got around to fixing it correctly, still no spark.
If I had a an intermittent coil wire could that have damaged something else in the ignition? Also I am using an MSD Coil.
Maybe this isn't related to the coil wire but I think it would be an odd coincidence if it was unrelated.
If I had a an intermittent coil wire could that have damaged something else in the ignition? Also I am using an MSD Coil.
Maybe this isn't related to the coil wire but I think it would be an odd coincidence if it was unrelated.
#2
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could be a fuse problem... or your dist. might have failed internally... a guy at work had a problem like that and when he popped the dist. cap the rotor came out in pieces...
#4
Ok fuses check out.. the main fuse under the hood by the battery, and the two fuses in the kick panel the 20a and 7.5a all check out good.
I am not getting spark at the coil wire. The igniter harness was corroded so i spayed with electrical connection cleaner and wire brushed it clean.
Still no spark at coil wire. Am I missing something? What could break while driving suddenly?
Please help I am stuck out of town until this is fixed.. also very limited on tools. I carry a 12 and 14 mm wrench, wire crimper/cutter and needle nose pliers in my truck. that is all i am working with.
I am not getting spark at the coil wire. The igniter harness was corroded so i spayed with electrical connection cleaner and wire brushed it clean.
Still no spark at coil wire. Am I missing something? What could break while driving suddenly?
Please help I am stuck out of town until this is fixed.. also very limited on tools. I carry a 12 and 14 mm wrench, wire crimper/cutter and needle nose pliers in my truck. that is all i am working with.
#6
Replaced coil with new MSD Blaster SS coil same as the coil that has been installed, still no change in symptoms. Check ECU connections good clean and dry. Is there anyway to test the igniter? or should i just go get a new one and try it? Will an igniter fail on its own?
#7
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What does your timing belt look like?
Always cheapest to look around before buying anything
.
Always cheapest to look around before buying anything
.
Last edited by NathanBlake13; 01-31-2009 at 11:46 AM.
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#8
Timing Belt shouldn't be an issue.. engine cranks to well for that. I have had timing belts break and that normally shoves a valve through the top of a piston... but I made a cut out in my timing cover a long time ago with a removable rubber insert.. ill check it out.
Also I just ordered an ignitor so we will see what happens
Also I just ordered an ignitor so we will see what happens
#9
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I had this happen up on a trail, got stuck. it sucked, however i thought it was the coil, but it turned out to be the "engine" fuse on the kick panel on the drivers' side.
#10
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Timing Belt shouldn't be an issue.. engine cranks to well for that. I have had timing belts break and that normally shoves a valve through the top of a piston... but I made a cut out in my timing cover a long time ago with a removable rubber insert.. ill check it out.
Also I just ordered an ignitor so we will see what happens
Also I just ordered an ignitor so we will see what happens
Double check the t-belt. The 3vze will not send valves into the pistons if it snaps. Mine snapped on me and I had similar problems..
My coil went at the same friggen time (replaced with used oem unit), it cranked all day long, had fuel... Pull the cap and crank the engine, see if the rotor rotates...
#11
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Yeah I broke the T belt on a couple of interference type engines and it did smash the odd valve or two. Fortunately the 3vze is a NON-interference. (So needless to say I haven't changed mine yet, 204k.)
I'm just spitballin' here.
Gonna be pretty hard to do anything with the tool list you had.
I'll go watch a few re-runs of mcgyver and post back the details of how to accomplish your mission.
I'm just spitballin' here.
Gonna be pretty hard to do anything with the tool list you had.
I'll go watch a few re-runs of mcgyver and post back the details of how to accomplish your mission.
Last edited by NathanBlake13; 01-31-2009 at 07:54 PM.
#14
The FSM does not tell how to test the ignitor, when it comes to troubleshooting the ignition it recommends trying a different ignitor.
The t-belt is good.
I'm just waiting on a new ignitor now, probably won't get here til thursday. I'll keep you guys updated.
Thanks for all the help
The t-belt is good.
I'm just waiting on a new ignitor now, probably won't get here til thursday. I'll keep you guys updated.
Thanks for all the help
#16
Ok got the ignitor in and I have spark at the coil. Replaced Dist cap and rotor due to 288000 miles and corrosion.
Now I'm still not getting spark at the plugs.
Any ideas?
Thanks for the help guys.
Now I'm still not getting spark at the plugs.
Any ideas?
Thanks for the help guys.
#17
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/ignition/9systemci.pdf check that and see if it helps any
#18
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http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/ignition/12onvehicl.pdf this link can help you with troubleshooting
#20
OK, how are u doing ur spark plug test?
i failed cus i didn't do it right. You are supposed to connect the metal part of the spark plug (the hex head) to the engine block and see if there is a spark in the tip If you are doing this then...
ur distributor is in wrong. pull it out carefully, clean it, put engine at TDC 1, install distributor pointing to #1 spark plug, bolt it down, and start ur car.
If that doesnt work, i can't help you T_T
i failed cus i didn't do it right. You are supposed to connect the metal part of the spark plug (the hex head) to the engine block and see if there is a spark in the tip If you are doing this then...
ur distributor is in wrong. pull it out carefully, clean it, put engine at TDC 1, install distributor pointing to #1 spark plug, bolt it down, and start ur car.
If that doesnt work, i can't help you T_T