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Is the 3.0 really THAT bad?

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Old 01-02-2008, 06:15 AM
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Is the 3.0 really THAT bad?

I used to have a 94 'runner with a 5spd and a 22re, so to me that's the gold standard of bulletproofness. I'm trying to find another 2nd gen 4runner right now, and it seems like that particular combo was a real freak in a 2nd gen. I've only been able to find a single one within 300 miles of me, and they're asking like $5550 because it has new wheels and paint. Like I care about bling rims and purple paint.


Anyway, since most of the trucks I'm looking at have the 3.0, I've been doing a lot of digging on that particular engine. Of course, most of what I'm finding are the negatives. They're gutless power-wise (better than the 22re, though), gas hogs, and most of all, they have an insatiable hunger for head gaskets.

So my question is, are they really that bad? I'm seeing lots of them in the same kind of mileage range that I got my 22re, about 150k more or less, but all the talk here has got me a little spooked. I got my 22re and didn't even blink at the mileage... Although I did wind up doing a HG at about 175k. But now I'm expecting to get a 3vze with those kind of miles and have it start spewing coolant within a day.

Also, here's another angle... At the top of my list right now is a 5spd/3vze combo that has a brand-new rebuild on it. How many miles should I be looking for that to go before needing a headgasket? Any reason to think that's not a good way to go? I know, it depends largely on the skill and care of the mechanic doing the rebuild, but assuming it was done right, then what would be the consensus?

Like I said, all the bad talk about the 3.slow has got me a little spooked... But if they were such a horrible engine, why did toyota produce so damn many of them?
Old 01-02-2008, 06:34 AM
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yes they are horrible... I put in a new hg 12k miles ago. All new engnbldr parts... and last week white smoke.
I will not be fixing it... just taking it out and shooting it.l
Old 01-02-2008, 06:35 AM
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The 3.0 is suspectable to problems at the #6 cylinder where the rear cross-over pipe joins the driver side manifold. Ditch that setup in favor of a separate downpipe for the passenger side. One overheat starts the deathspiral to headgasket failure. Not unusual for a iron block and aluminum head engine. Ditch the stock fan and install a flex fan, something that is dependable and will prevent an overheat situation. Run synthetic oil in the engine. Keep it tuned and it will do OK. May want to change your coolant every 2-3 years. Do these things and it will live a long time.

My $0.02
Old 01-02-2008, 06:37 AM
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lol i never had time to find out
Old 01-02-2008, 06:41 AM
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I have had awesome luck with them. I had just shy of 300K on my first one and about 150K on this one. Each had the head gasket recall performed once in the engines life. The 300K engine was stolen along with the rest of the truck is it is unknown how long it would have gone or might still be going.

Often their performance later in life depends on the repairs. For example, the above poster got only 12k miles before blowing a head gasket. That is in no way normal. There was an issue during the rebuild.

The engine is too small for a 4runner and really struggles behind an auto tranny. The 22RE is that much worse as far as power is concerned.

Frank

Last edited by elripster; 01-02-2008 at 06:42 AM.
Old 01-02-2008, 06:46 AM
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My 3.0 is the most reliable powerplant I have ever owned. 166,000 miles and aside from the headgasket recall that cost me nothing, the engine runs as good now as it did when new.

The fuel mileage and power output are not as good as they could be, but I never had any reliability problems.
Old 01-02-2008, 06:46 AM
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Who did the rebuild on the 5 speed you found? It could be bomb proof now or not.

I think the engine will last much longer behind a 5 speed. The OD in the auto is too tall which means drastic RPM changes when it has to down shift on the freeway (which it does with a gear that all). I think the auto OD gear issue contributes to the head gasket failures due to the excessive thermal stress associated with frequent down shifting between gears (4th to 3rd) so spread apart.

I have an auto now but miss my 5 speed.

Frank
Old 01-02-2008, 06:57 AM
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Down pipe

Originally Posted by SEAIRESCUE
The 3.0 is suspectable to problems at the #6 cylinder where the rear cross-over pipe joins the driver side manifold. Ditch that setup in favor of a separate downpipe for the passenger side. One overheat starts the deathspiral to headgasket failure. Not unusual for a iron block and aluminum head engine. Ditch the stock fan and install a flex fan, something that is dependable and will prevent an overheat situation. Run synthetic oil in the engine. Keep it tuned and it will do OK. May want to change your coolant every 2-3 years. Do these things and it will live a long time.

My $0.02
What would be the best set up for the exhaust? When I change the downpipe, would I not have to also change the complete exhaust set up? Headers, crossover, what would be your recommendation? Is there a simple solution dollar wise? Let me know.
Thanks.
Old 01-02-2008, 07:04 AM
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I have recently had an issue with the A/T oil temp light due to the o/d. The truck would shutter in o/d. It ran fine in drive but drank the gas like crazy. I changed the oil and added lock up for the torq converter but I am not sure if this will solve the problem. So far it is running OK but I am not convinced that this problem is solved.
Old 01-02-2008, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by AuburnRunner
yes they are horrible... I put in a new hg 12k miles ago. All new engnbldr parts... and last week white smoke.
I will not be fixing it... just taking it out and shooting it.l
Even with those parts 12k is not very long. Something wasn't done right in that rebuild.
Old 01-02-2008, 07:09 AM
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We own a few 3.0s here and they seem to be good motors. But they are a pain to work on. As long as they are properly maintained though they seem to work fine. But I would shy away from a rebuild. You don't know who did it so you don't know how good it was or what parts they used or anything. A properly done rebuild will be good as new but a shabby one will die fast. My dad's 91 has no problems and its a 5 speed V6 pickup. Never complains but it too has had the headgaste done. It died at 70000kms. The truck I bought for my diesel swap had a blown headgasket but it was at 242000miles. And they do have more power than the 22RE. I would get one if I were looking for a truck. It wouldn't scare me away.
Old 01-02-2008, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by TOYOTEX
I have recently had an issue with the A/T oil temp light due to the o/d. The truck would shutter in o/d. It ran fine in drive but drank the gas like crazy. I changed the oil and added lock up for the torq converter but I am not sure if this will solve the problem. So far it is running OK but I am not convinced that this problem is solved.
That sounds like you are running under such a condition that you are keeping the torque converter unlocked. That shears the fluid bad and breaks it down. There could be a lot of causes from needing a tune up to installing slightly larger tires that can cause that. In the end, you are pushing the pedal down more than you were when this was not happening. You can feel and year it unlock as you press down the pedal because based on the engine RPMS when they rise a bit. The AT light means the fluid is really hot and the tranny will have trouble building enough pressure to operate.

Apologies for thread hijack, now back to 3.0 engines...

Frank
Old 01-02-2008, 07:44 AM
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i think the 3.0's are great. definately not acceleration junkies but i would say overall, the can keep up.

my headgaskets are still there. when my truck had 65,000 miles on it, we barely got the hg recall on the truck. so free hg's and labor on that!!! (poor mechanic's lol).
this truck has overheated plenty of times, and got me almost stranded due to a bad pump.
but, STILL never had to change the headgaskets.

maybe if i was on my 3rd one, i would be a little more hesistant on the lovin of the 3vze lol.
but, hitting 200,000 with headgaskets still okay, i would say im in good shape.
Old 01-02-2008, 07:45 AM
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I bought a 3.0-equipped 4Runner almost two years ago. After a year of ownership, I was tired of not being able to climb hills going through the Rockies, so this past August, I dropped a 3.4 5VZFE engine into it and have never looked back.

This is not the solution for everyone. But my suggestion is that, if you like the 2nd generation as much as I do, you look at maybe finding one who's got a blown engine and the person has no desire to repair and pick it up for cheap. They're out there, but takes some work. Source a 3.4 and consider doing a swap.

This all depends on how much work you're willing to do, and if you have the right equipment or not. It is NOT as cost-effective as buying a 3rd gen, but I guarantee it's the best way to make a 2nd gen fun to drive, as well as give you a ton of knowledge about your ride. Plus the satisfaction of saying you did it yourself.

Just my two Canadian cents. Or $0.020098 US.
Old 01-02-2008, 07:57 AM
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Holy quick responses! You guys are good!.

So, it would actually be cheaper to buy a third gen than to swap a 3.4 into a 2nd gen? That actually surprises me, since those third gens are so expensive. It also seems to be damn hard to find them with a 5spd.

Another one I'm looking at is a 91 with 300k on the chassis, and 170k on a swapped 3.4 how do you suppose that holds up in this comparison?

Oh, and as for who did the rebuild on the rebuilt 3.0 I'm looking at... He's a member here, so obviously it was done the right way. New rods and pistons/rings, oil/waterpump, etc... Certainly sounds like he knows his stuff anyway.
Old 01-02-2008, 08:04 AM
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Mine got the HG recall done 110k miles ago. Runs great. I have to row it like it was a boat but if I do it'll maintain 65mph up Floyd Hill, passing people the whole way. That's all I need. I don't need to maintain 90 and pass everyone!

It costs quite a bit of money to do an engine swap. Those motors are not cheap and it's a lot of labor if you have to pay somebody to do it.

Last edited by GV27; 01-02-2008 at 08:08 AM.
Old 01-02-2008, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RobD
Just my two Canadian cents. Or $0.020098 US.
Now that's funny.

If your 2nd gen is clean, I would opt for the 3.4 swap over buying a 3rd gen. Having owned both, the only real advantage of the third gen over the second gen is the engine and optional rear locker. The second gen has a nicer interior. The third gen's also have the coil front suspension and rack & pinion IFS, the latter of course means you won't have to replace the idler arm like on the second gens, although it neither difficult or expensive to do-so.
Old 01-02-2008, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by shwuz
Holy quick responses! You guys are good!.

So, it would actually be cheaper to buy a third gen than to swap a 3.4 into a 2nd gen? That actually surprises me, since those third gens are so expensive. It also seems to be damn hard to find them with a 5spd.

Another one I'm looking at is a 91 with 300k on the chassis, and 170k on a swapped 3.4 how do you suppose that holds up in this comparison?

Oh, and as for who did the rebuild on the rebuilt 3.0 I'm looking at... He's a member here, so obviously it was done the right way. New rods and pistons/rings, oil/waterpump, etc... Certainly sounds like he knows his stuff anyway.
It sounds like you have two good options.

If you start to build up your truck for wheeling, you will inevitably have more money and time into it than the average person. This makes the engine swap more of an option down the road, at least for me, since buying another truck often means starting over with gears, lockers, sliders..... So, you could just get the rebuilt 3.0 and assume some time down the road if it is not fast enough or has a major failure you will swap to the larger engine. Meanwhile you can build up the other aspects of the vehicle. Or you might just get the 3.4 right now and enjoy the speed!

What other mods do the trucks have that might tip you one way or other?

Frank

Last edited by elripster; 01-02-2008 at 08:13 AM.
Old 01-02-2008, 08:31 AM
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Nothing, really. They both have 31's on them. My requirements are a little different from most. I'm not into big wheeling, I'm into reliability. My home is Texas, and I drive 1000 miles to mexico a few times a year to go surfing. So, my car has to to daily driving, 20-hour marathon trips at 80, and some mild trail driving and sometimes heavy beach driving.

So really, suspension-wise, a stock 4runner is great for my purposes. But I can't be having something breaking down in the middle of the sonoran desert on me.

Just to inject a little sacrilege here, I'm also looking at a pathfinder with a recent (dealer) rebuild on it. Don't make me do it, people! Help me get back into a 'runner again!
Old 01-02-2008, 09:45 AM
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My 3.0 has never left me stranded. Just keep up with regular matanence. If you ever get the chance, swap in a 3.4L or somthing else, toyota really never got the power/weight ratio right till the 3rd gen runners.


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