2nd gen 4runner back door window problem
#1
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2nd gen 4runner back door window problem
Hi guys,
I know this is quite a common problem and I've narrowed it down to bad relays...
The symptoms are:
Window goes down fine, comes up fine, but occasionally, it won't come up. If I quickly tap the up button a bunch of times I can hear it starts moving, and finally it moves up. I think the relays might be bad, but I suppose it could also be the motor. Then again, since the window goes up and down just fine, I would think the motor would be ok.
So to get the relay out I think I'll need to remove a large plastic piece around the driver's side quarter panel, are there any guides or walk throughs that help in taking apart the interior?
I know this is quite a common problem and I've narrowed it down to bad relays...
The symptoms are:
Window goes down fine, comes up fine, but occasionally, it won't come up. If I quickly tap the up button a bunch of times I can hear it starts moving, and finally it moves up. I think the relays might be bad, but I suppose it could also be the motor. Then again, since the window goes up and down just fine, I would think the motor would be ok.
So to get the relay out I think I'll need to remove a large plastic piece around the driver's side quarter panel, are there any guides or walk throughs that help in taking apart the interior?
#2
Registered User
Sounds like the "up" relay on the controller board going. These often get intermittent before they check out. Search the forum, there are some good 'how to' posts for replacing the relay and not the entire pricey controller board.
I don't have any diagrams, but first the plastic panel in the center above the tailgate window comes off. There may be a couple of screws at the corners, but mostly it is held in place with plastic press-ins so you gently pull or pry on them to pop them out of their sockets. You have to disconnect the light electrical connector too.
Next, take out the threshold trim piece that covers the carpet edge along the floor, held in by a few screws.
The big rear quarter trim panel is held in place mostly with plastic press-ins again. Use a trim panel tool to pry them out, but be gentle because a couple broke on me.
You can bend the quarter trim panel out of the way enough to access the controller box, but it is tight knuckle scratching work. I removed the entire panel which involved unbolting some additional gadgets like the seat belt and associated trim covers. I pulled the storage box in the left rear quarter as well which really opened up the work space around the controller box. (Thought I'd do a little rust proofing in the wheel well while it was apart.)
Once the controller board is out, desoldering the bad relay and replacing with a new one is not too bad.
Good luck,
WJ
I don't have any diagrams, but first the plastic panel in the center above the tailgate window comes off. There may be a couple of screws at the corners, but mostly it is held in place with plastic press-ins so you gently pull or pry on them to pop them out of their sockets. You have to disconnect the light electrical connector too.
Next, take out the threshold trim piece that covers the carpet edge along the floor, held in by a few screws.
The big rear quarter trim panel is held in place mostly with plastic press-ins again. Use a trim panel tool to pry them out, but be gentle because a couple broke on me.
You can bend the quarter trim panel out of the way enough to access the controller box, but it is tight knuckle scratching work. I removed the entire panel which involved unbolting some additional gadgets like the seat belt and associated trim covers. I pulled the storage box in the left rear quarter as well which really opened up the work space around the controller box. (Thought I'd do a little rust proofing in the wheel well while it was apart.)
Once the controller board is out, desoldering the bad relay and replacing with a new one is not too bad.
Good luck,
WJ
Last edited by Wrenchinjoe; 01-09-2010 at 05:33 PM.
#3
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Thanks, I'll give it a shot. I'll probably take some photos of the interior and circle what I would think is the correct removal process. Then it would be great if you could chime in and let me know if I'm right.
#4
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Before you go pulling all this apart i would look at the switch contacts if you have not all ready done so.
Maybe you all ready pulled the switch and found it still has this problem when using a jumper switch.
It would also do the same thing when being engaged with the key switch on the back hatch.
Since i work on so many of these windows . I have a extra switch with a longer harness for testing these things
Good luck
Maybe you all ready pulled the switch and found it still has this problem when using a jumper switch.
It would also do the same thing when being engaged with the key switch on the back hatch.
Since i work on so many of these windows . I have a extra switch with a longer harness for testing these things
Good luck
#5
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Before you go pulling all this apart i would look at the switch contacts if you have not all ready done so.
Maybe you all ready pulled the switch and found it still has this problem when using a jumper switch.
It would also do the same thing when being engaged with the key switch on the back hatch.
Since i work on so many of these windows . I have a extra switch with a longer harness for testing these things
Good luck
Maybe you all ready pulled the switch and found it still has this problem when using a jumper switch.
It would also do the same thing when being engaged with the key switch on the back hatch.
Since i work on so many of these windows . I have a extra switch with a longer harness for testing these things
Good luck
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