2nd 3.0 head gasket update
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Location: Grass Valley, California
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2nd 3.0 head gasket update
Hey everyone,
I just thought I would share some info with you all, about my truck. I replaced the head gasket on the driver side. Even though I bought the kit for both sides I didn't have time nor did I need to do the other side. After removing the timing belt cover the book said I needed to remove the cam gear. Well I stood there cussing at the thing, knowing I didn't have that special tool for the job. Then I got to thinking, "hey, the only reason I need to remove that gear is to be able to remove the head". Once I removed the intake manifold I decided to cut the backing plate for the timing belt with my hacksaw. I was then able to remove that head in tact. Before reinstalling it I filed the edges smooth and left enough of a gap to put a small vaccum line that I slit down one side, in between the two peices of metal. Also I cut it as close to the mounting bolt as as far from the belt as I could. So far so good.
On another note, I called a lot of repair shops before I put it back together. I wanted to find out whether or not I should fork out $200.00 for a new knock sensor. I bought the wire at our local toy dealer. It was $13.95, but on that day the guy said if I could get down there between 4:00 and 6:00 pm, I could get for $9.95. Thanks Magnussens Toyota in Auburn, your okay! Back to the knk sensor. Every repair place and one ex toy mechanic said they always replace the knock sensor. Well, call me cheap or call me stupid, but I just wasn't gonna put out $200.00 for one small sensor that shouldn't go bad or have to be replaced every time these toys blow their tops. I crossed my fingers, put it all back together and everything seemed fine. No light! At first! Then it happened! You would think after the battery was diconnected for two weeks, the code would be clear?NOT! Remembering what I read here and in the book, I decided to take the 30 amp fuse out. I also took out the 40 and some other relay thing. Each time i put one back in I would turn the key on then off and so on. The last one to go was the 30 amp Key on key off. Key on and the I put the jumper wire in and key on. Constant flash, good! Started it, drove it, still driving it, no light. Going to get it smogged next week. Still surges on cold start, maybe cold start injector? Don't know yet. Wish me luck! Gotta get rid of this overpriced parts bag and head on back to Nissan Land. Thanks to all of you for your help along the way. If anybody knows of a Toyota 4x4 extra cab that is all Nissan driven let me know! You don't find many Nissan 4x4's trucks for sale. No offense but it is probably due to reliability and the price for the parts. It's sure not the looks of a Nissan that draws in the devoted owner.
I just thought I would share some info with you all, about my truck. I replaced the head gasket on the driver side. Even though I bought the kit for both sides I didn't have time nor did I need to do the other side. After removing the timing belt cover the book said I needed to remove the cam gear. Well I stood there cussing at the thing, knowing I didn't have that special tool for the job. Then I got to thinking, "hey, the only reason I need to remove that gear is to be able to remove the head". Once I removed the intake manifold I decided to cut the backing plate for the timing belt with my hacksaw. I was then able to remove that head in tact. Before reinstalling it I filed the edges smooth and left enough of a gap to put a small vaccum line that I slit down one side, in between the two peices of metal. Also I cut it as close to the mounting bolt as as far from the belt as I could. So far so good.
On another note, I called a lot of repair shops before I put it back together. I wanted to find out whether or not I should fork out $200.00 for a new knock sensor. I bought the wire at our local toy dealer. It was $13.95, but on that day the guy said if I could get down there between 4:00 and 6:00 pm, I could get for $9.95. Thanks Magnussens Toyota in Auburn, your okay! Back to the knk sensor. Every repair place and one ex toy mechanic said they always replace the knock sensor. Well, call me cheap or call me stupid, but I just wasn't gonna put out $200.00 for one small sensor that shouldn't go bad or have to be replaced every time these toys blow their tops. I crossed my fingers, put it all back together and everything seemed fine. No light! At first! Then it happened! You would think after the battery was diconnected for two weeks, the code would be clear?NOT! Remembering what I read here and in the book, I decided to take the 30 amp fuse out. I also took out the 40 and some other relay thing. Each time i put one back in I would turn the key on then off and so on. The last one to go was the 30 amp Key on key off. Key on and the I put the jumper wire in and key on. Constant flash, good! Started it, drove it, still driving it, no light. Going to get it smogged next week. Still surges on cold start, maybe cold start injector? Don't know yet. Wish me luck! Gotta get rid of this overpriced parts bag and head on back to Nissan Land. Thanks to all of you for your help along the way. If anybody knows of a Toyota 4x4 extra cab that is all Nissan driven let me know! You don't find many Nissan 4x4's trucks for sale. No offense but it is probably due to reliability and the price for the parts. It's sure not the looks of a Nissan that draws in the devoted owner.
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