chris514scott

Im rebuilding my motor and don't want to put the stock radiator in because I know im going to be needing a lot more cooling than stock can allow due to crawling at very slow speeds on very hot rocks.

I don't want to do aluminum because I don't want to run the risk of cracking it if it starts to flex.

I have heard people using the 3VZE but also heard that it wont fit in a 90 pickup without either removing the skid plate or notching the hood.. I don't want to do either.

What about the 22RET. Isnt that a bigger rad that will directly bolt in without any mods?

I just want a radiator that will keep things very cool without having to do much modification and without losing my fan shroud.


All help is appreciated. I know there are other treads on here about this but none comparing the 22ret vs the 3vze

snobdds

What engine is this going to be cooling. Can't give a good answer without this critical piece of information. Mind readers we are not...

donomite49

i got my csf 3 core all metal radiator from davez offroad. had to slot the holes for clearance. got about 2k mi so far, no probs yet.

chris514scott

[GVIDEO][/GVIDEO]Sorry. Truck is a 1990 with a 22re. The motor has been rebuilt by 22reperformance and is their stage 2 rebuild.

Link to Stage 2 rebuild
http://www.22reperformance.com/22RE%...20Engines.html

snobdds

Well it just so happens I have a custom built motor by Jim at Putney's (22repreformance) and I have no cooling issues. The cooling system is a lot more than just a radiator. The entire system needs to be considered for proper cooling. All hoses, fan clutch, thermostat, shroud, sensors and radiator should be looked at and replaced as necessary. I replaced everything except the shroud and radiator in my rebuild. I had the radiator pressure tested and it was fine.

The stock radiators were overbuilt for the size of the engine from the factory. Remember, it’s just a 4cyl truck were dealing with here.

I don't want to see you just replace the radiator and think you solved your cooling issues. It's not that simple.

Good choice on the engine. I love my engine, but I had Jim find me a block that only needed a good honing so I could use all OEM components in the rotating assembly. My original engine lasted 250K miles, why change to aftermarket parts when the OEM stuff is the best there is...

chris514scott

Well I have no history with the truck. the motor was blown when I bought the truck. Im putting all new hoses, fan clutch, all new senders, thermostat, and shroud is in good shape. The truck will be spending its life slowly creeping through thick mud and crawling on big rocks (Disney OK). I just want to start my new engine off on the right foot.

The other day when we were in Disney we saw 3 Toyota all having problems with running to hot. I don't want to be the guy sitting on the side of the trail with my wife pissed off at me while we let the truck cool down. WOULD NOT BE FUN>

snobdds

Don't cheap out on parts, get OEM stuff from the dealer or go to Toyotapartseast.com and look up the parts your self by your vin #. Hint: a lot of the small coolant hoses are listed under the "fuel injection system' in the parts diagrams.

Get a dual stage thermostat as well, it will prevent temp overshoot. It may be more critical then the radiator in your cooling system, as far as I am concerned. Search on here for it, there are tons of thread on it and it will have the part number. Can't remember it off the top of my head.

92 TOY

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tatReplacement

snobdds

Thank you 92 toy.

Part number is 90916-03070. Don't let the part monkey's say it's not for your motor...

chris514scott

Thanks for the info on the thermostat. I was going to have Jim send me a thermostat but ill call him first and see which one he has.

As for the hoses. I was going to use silicone hoses.. Is this a better option than the stock?? Or should I just stay stock.