22RE: What are these Connections??? (Post-Head Gasket Replacement)
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22RE: What are these Connections??? (Post-Head Gasket Replacement)
Hi all.
I just completed replacing my 22RE's Head Gasket, Timing Cover, Timing Chain, etc with much help from searching Yotatech posts!!!
Engine is running, but not as smooth/powerful as before.
I can't figure out if these connections were plugged in before I started taking things apart.
Could they be causing my engine to run poorly?
Much thanks for any help!!!
I just completed replacing my 22RE's Head Gasket, Timing Cover, Timing Chain, etc with much help from searching Yotatech posts!!!
Engine is running, but not as smooth/powerful as before.
I can't figure out if these connections were plugged in before I started taking things apart.
Could they be causing my engine to run poorly?
Much thanks for any help!!!
#3
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The grey/white plug you're holding is relevant to the a/c system, if I remember right. If no a/c, just tuck it away somewhere. Mine is tucked back into the manifold area. (No a/c) the exposed end of the off-red VSV is just for a little filter. Hit some junkyards to find a replacement.
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Thanks a lot for the pic Hugo.
Now I remember picking a little plastic thing up off the ground and thinking, Uh oh, where did that come from??
That must have been the filter you're talking about Carl, and since I don't have A/C, that takes care of the other mystery. Thanks!
Junk yard here I come.
Those were the obvious potential causes for the engine running poorly, so now I've got some more trouble shooting to do.
Now I remember picking a little plastic thing up off the ground and thinking, Uh oh, where did that come from??
That must have been the filter you're talking about Carl, and since I don't have A/C, that takes care of the other mystery. Thanks!
Junk yard here I come.
Those were the obvious potential causes for the engine running poorly, so now I've got some more trouble shooting to do.
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Yeah I figured.
Here's what I'm wondering about now:
When we put the Distributor back in I believe the Engine was at TDC. Now I know it's supposed to go in at 5 degrees before TDC. We went by the location of the Distributor Rotor (it was at around 11 o'clock).
When I check the timing (E1-TE1 jumped, 750 rpm), it appears dead on.
Could the Timing look correct but in fact be off because the Distributor was put in at TDC vs -5 degrees?
Here's what I'm wondering about now:
When we put the Distributor back in I believe the Engine was at TDC. Now I know it's supposed to go in at 5 degrees before TDC. We went by the location of the Distributor Rotor (it was at around 11 o'clock).
When I check the timing (E1-TE1 jumped, 750 rpm), it appears dead on.
Could the Timing look correct but in fact be off because the Distributor was put in at TDC vs -5 degrees?
#7
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It's probably timed right. I always go TDC on #1, stab it in, make sure it rolls to the #1 ignition terminal (give or take a bit) and then lock down, check n set. Get a pic of your distributor, minus cap, at #1 TDC, we could probably tell ya whether its close or not. Can't hurt to pull and reinstall, just to check your work.
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#9
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It's probably timed right. I always go TDC on #1, stab it in, make sure it rolls to the #1 ignition terminal (give or take a bit) and then lock down, check n set. Get a pic of your distributor, minus cap, at #1 TDC, we could probably tell ya whether its close or not. Can't hurt to pull and reinstall, just to check your work.
This is timing for a 22r, not a 22re.
Cam timing needs to be set at TDC. Then rotate the crank until the match mark is at 5* BTDC. Then insert the dizzy with the rotor and match marks at 12:00. The rotor will go to about 11:00.
If you don't put the jumper in, the timing will be around 12-13*, which is correct. If you put the jumper in, which brings it back to base timing, the timing should be back at 5*.
I see so many people mess this up. They time their trucks for a 22r instead of the 22re and wonder why it does not run right.
#10
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Yeah. My previous post is how I do it on MY 22 RE. It's always worked, FOR ME. But I'm pretty familiar with mine, and if I screw it up, I just pull it and move one gear tooth "left" or "right" until it's correct with jumper installed. Sorry, I abbreviated the procedure, there's some steps I don't necessarily omit, but since they're part of the process, I don't mention them. Didn't mean to add confusion to the conversation.
Last edited by combatcarl; 09-11-2014 at 08:29 AM.
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Went over the engine today with my uncle. He's a mechanic and is the only reason this job is getting done.
The distributor went in correctly, at 5* BTDC.
We checked the valves to see if they were out of spec:
Pretty much if not all of the valves were too tight. We adjusted them to spec.
Started 'er up and it's now running Louder (i.e. the Valves are now too loose).
After noticing this, we had another look at the cam gear and noticed it was not centred when the crank is at TDC (see picture).
So, this means the chain went on one tooth off?
My uncle was sure it didn't but is now considering the possibility.
Many thanks for the help so far guys!
The distributor went in correctly, at 5* BTDC.
We checked the valves to see if they were out of spec:
Pretty much if not all of the valves were too tight. We adjusted them to spec.
Started 'er up and it's now running Louder (i.e. the Valves are now too loose).
After noticing this, we had another look at the cam gear and noticed it was not centred when the crank is at TDC (see picture).
So, this means the chain went on one tooth off?
My uncle was sure it didn't but is now considering the possibility.
Many thanks for the help so far guys!
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Your cam is definitely off a tooth. Did your new chain not come with a colored link that aligns with the cam gear? I've never seen one that doesn't....
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