voiddweller

So I'm restoring/rebuilding this beast from the dead, hasn't been started in 3 years.

Top end of engine was rebuilt - had bad cam bearings - got full head job - but never started when the PO lost his place to store it and finish the job which was the gas tank/fuel pump/engine setup after rebuild.

I:

Installed new gas tank/pump, good fuel pressure
Coolant
New oil/filter
New plugs/wires/cap
Checked spark
Checked compression

Set timing, rotor was off by 45degrees at TDC, re-aligned to #1 on cap, now it starts and sounds good enough for now however,

Turns off after 2 seconds, won't rev, reaches 1000 rpm after ignition and immediately shuts down but sounds really smooth

Attempt at diagnosis:

1) Pulley driven fan was removed, electric installed with new radiator - electric not connected yet, failsafe because no fan connected? Haven't gotten to that part yet, have to locate where/how to connect it.

2) I noticed the tailpipe had when swept up about a 6" diameter pile of crusty black chunks. When I looked during ignition it appeared exhaust was coming out but I wonder if the cat is possibly clogged allowing a small amount of exhaust out, but causing the engine to shut down nearly immediately?

3) would the pcv grommet missing on valve cover be enough leak to cause it to shut down? I have one on order but haven't received it yet.

There seems to be exhaust coming out of somewhere down behind the turbo or possibly from the header gasket - I can't tell exactly where because my neck doesn't reach that far while starting the truck up - that led me to believe maybe it's an cat/muffler problem.

Are there other things I should be checking after a PO engine rebuild that I am missing, standard procedure stuff?

Any suggestions for further diagnosis?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I would bypass all the safeties on the fuel pump by jumping B+ to FP on the check connector

If it now keeps running look at the circuit for the AFM switch and the second coil on the Circuit opening relay

If it does not you might have rust in the fuel filter or the injectors from sitting so long.

voiddweller

So you don't think that exhaust could be causing it, more along the lines of fuel or electrical?

I put a new tested Circuit opening relay in already.

EDIT: I put a jumper in the data link connector on B+ to FP next to the fuse box, same results. Starts / fires fine and 1-2 sec it just dies.

Tested AFM using guide from 4crawler, resistance all check out within normal operating range.

Off to check and replace the fuel filter, thanks for the helpful suggestions wyoming, I'll report back filter results soon

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

When you had the jumper in could you hear the fuel pump running ??

If a new filter does not cure the problem

Maybe time to check the fuel pressure

If the fuel pressure is good Time to see if the injectors are getting the signal to open.

Noid lights

Is The ECU getting a good ground if this has been sitting things do tend to corrode.

.

voiddweller

Pump running fine, access panel off could hear it great.

Working on filter this eve have to borrow a thin crescent wrench mine won't fit to hold the base of the filter.. The fuel filter is Toyota brand.. Makes me wonder how old it is..

Is the ecu ground in the kick panel next to the ecu, or somewhere else?

After filter I'll check pressure at the rail and explore noid light test. Maybe I should also just replace the injectors anyway.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The ground for the ECU should be on the intake manifold but who knows where things might get moved to.

AKHeathen

not clear if you have jumpered the fuel pump in the connector. if the vafm, or the fuel pump relay coil connected to the vafm was not passing current, it would do exactly as you describe, but putting that jumper in the connector will turn the fuel pump on full-time to rule it out...... and yes, that pcv gromet will be enough for it not to pull the vafm open far enough to keep the fuel pump running, or even provide enough fuel to run right.... it might run if you have your foot in it, but not well, and too lean. plug the hole in the intake that goes to the pcv and let the valve cover vent off to the atmosphere till you get the gromet. that will eliminate that as a problem.

voiddweller

So I've:

Cap/plugs/wires
Installed PCV grommet/valve
Replaced Ignitor
Replaced Fuel Pump, Tank, Filter
Replaced Open Circuit
Test Jumper in test panel, fuel pump runs
Set Timing
Checked fuses
Replaced frayed wire from distributor to ignitor on coil
Cleaned all grounds I was able to locate
Swapped ECU with spare

Could it be a vacuum problem? I found the turbo diagram and everything looks fine however on the diagram it shows the EGR vacuum modulator going to the EGR valve. On mine as drawn in red you can see it goes to the plenum on a 3way vacuum, whats up with that? Pics attached







After that I'll remove intake manifold and test fuel rail / injectors

Still holding at a 1-2 second run and just dies like it's starved for something.

Fuel filter was OEM and looked to be original, lots of crust came out.

Any advice on pulling intake manifold? Only done 3.0 before never 22re, Never tested Injectors before..

AKHeathen

welll. obviously, it's not routed correctly..... the sole purpose of the modulator is to run the egr correctly.... which it is not connected to...

AKHeathen

in short: the modulator control is connected to the throttle body so it isn't actuating when it could choke the motor out.... via a vsv and bvsv, of course....... and that does not clarify if you left the jumper in and attempted to start it..... we get thet the fuel pump turns.... the jumper eliminates certain problems and you need to be clear when and if it it is jumpered to run while attempting to start, or is running, not vauge, like that you can "hear it run when you jumper"...

voiddweller

Yes, the jumper is in, with the same results in or out..

So in the photo with the circled 3 way vacuum jumper - I can't find any reference in the FSM or online as to what goes to that vacuum-line-wise..

AKHeathen

the first pic is the related vacuum routing........ fairly strait foreward.

millball

Maybe with misrouted EGR vac lines, or defective EGR controls, the EGR is opening as soon as the engine runs enough to make vacuum and kills the engine.

Remove the vac line from the EGR valve itself and plug the line.

See if the engine will start and run.

It may be possible too, that the EGR valve itself is stuck open.

AKHeathen

i would make that diagram, or the one that should be printed on the driver side under the hood match the engine first. it seems to have been reworked, and whom knows what else could be off...

voiddweller

Okay, I routed the vacuum lines as the diagram shows. I plugged the line marked in the pic going to the egr and had no difference in running, shuts down after 1-2 secs sounds/acts the exact same.. If I rev it up when it starts, it shuts down the exact same as if I just let it idle immediately after starting..





I'm baffled, well, I was baffled in the beginning - now im just getting worse lol..

voiddweller

After all the troubleshooting and repairs, I realized the PO had a box of spare parts in the back of the runner that I hadn't sifted through. I found another spare ECU and swapped it out, no more stalling, runs and idle's great!

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions guys! I do appreciate it.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

So you had two bad ECU`S

I wonder if it just could have been a poor connection or if they are both bad ??