89whitetoyota

replaced the old TPS with a new one today and the the motor surges from idle to like 2200 rpm every 3 seconds consistantly. Regardless of idle screw adjustment or throttle cable adjustment.

Coolant, oil, gas, and battery are all full go.

All i did was take the throttle body off and clean it out with STP throttle body cleaner, and install the new TPS. Truck idled fine before but had a power lag when going into 2nd gear...i could hold it to the floor and it had no power. Now that i put a new TPS on the truck it fires up but immediately starts surging like crazy.

Please help.

89whitetoyota

id like to add that i had the same thing happen when i put the new TPS in and then put the old one back in...

99 sas runner

no your good you just got a beast cam. jk lol. what he said^

abecedarian

... and ignore the picture showing the test lead on the wrong terminal.

89whitetoyota

Ok cool, that pic is VTA and E2 isnt it? I think I know what to do, I didnt know just hooking a multimeter will adjust the sensor, or do I physically need to adjust (and how) a brand new throttle body?

Thanks for you help guys!

Hey Abe! Been a while man! Let me know when your in Mason, OH again bro.

89whitetoyota

OK so if the TPS checks out then is it adjusted or will doing this procedure, simply touching the connecters automatically reset the computer?

misterzee

Another thing to look at is the idle air valve.
Mine had been unplugged since before i bought it. I thought I was smart when I discovered the connector one day, plugged it back in. Started surging... I unplugged it....

TinMan

You'll actually need to move the TPS around a little bit. The most important terminals are IDL/E2. You will need to look at the FSM, you will need a .57mm and .85mm feelers guage. Place the .57mm between the throttle stop and the throttle lever. You should get less than 2300 ohms, but more than 0, the closer to 2300 ohms the better. Then put the 85mm in the same place, if you do not get infinity move it until you just do, just until it stops bouncing from resistance to infinity. Then carefully tighten it down. Then recheck it to make sure it did not move while tightening it.

Hope it helps

89whitetoyota

Dumb question, I have a multimeter, but what does infinity look like on the meter? Just 0

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
check this out it helped me when checking and adjusting my tps!

TinMan

Different meters will give different reads, some will give 0.0, some will give OL. General if it reads 0.0 you have an open, or infinity, any type of short or continuity will give a reading. As long as your meter is set into that range or auto detect.

abecedarian

well, well, well.

If it's reading 0... that would indicate either fully shorted or fully open, depending on the meter, which I'm sure you've already read.
Whichever way, something is wrong.

89whitetoyota

Ok I did the adjustment, using a credit card for the 0.80m setting and a feeler for the 0.57, got open on both readings, i guess because the sensor was brand new, put it all back on, no more surging.

How ever i forgot to bolt the dashpot unit back on, and odd to me i had no back firing and it drove somewhat normal.

Now, it seems though i have a miss when engine gets up to temp and is at idle now that the new sensor is on. Reason I changed it was because i have no power in second, it feels like the motor doesnt want to go but I am forcing it to.

Now that I have a new TPS on should I move to the EGR, and eliminate it or replacement? From what I read this could be the cause of my power loss in just an afternoon.

I drove to work in the morning and had power, came home from work, and my power was like cut in half. There was no overtime build up?

Let me know what you think?

TinMan

An open with the .57mm is not good, you'll need to move the TPS until you have a reading of less than 2300ohms but more than an open, and an open with the .85mm. It is a very fine line, keep working it and you will get it.

Also your throttle stop and butter fly has to be adjusted properly before adjusting the TPS will do any good. The adjustment for this is right before the TPS adjustment in the FSM.

Same with the dash pot.

If you pull the EGR I would try to clean it before you spend the money to replace it. Get a can of carb cleaner and go to town on the inlet from the head, and valve on the inside. But try to keep it out of the rubber parts on top.

But finish your TPS before moving on to another possible problem area.

89whitetoyota

Ok, next thing is to adjust the valves, this is easy I have done this proceedure before, and followed the 4crawler instructions and worked well.

At .57 i was getting what i thought to be open. My craftsman multimeter when i set it to the 20k ohms just reads 1. This is before I even hook it up to the sensor. But when I read Vcc and VTA terminals with e2 grounded I start getting readings. So I am assuming the meter is at open all the time until I put resistance on it right?

Thanks for all your help folks.

89whitetoyota

Where do I do this jumper thing, in the grey diagnostic box by the fuse box? Also is this like the same process with the paper clip if the MAF is messed up?

So if the idle speed drops and the engine blinks, what do i do then, or is that all i am looking to happen?

89whitetoyota

Ok cool. That explains it. I have it running for the mean time so I will fiddle with it in the next day or so, and let you know what happens. I did try moving the TPS once the top screw was tight but maybe I was moving it to fast or far to get the 2300k reading. Once I get .80m set do i just barely move the TPS a weener hair to set the 0.57, basically was i moving the tps to fast causing me not to get a reading?

89whitetoyota

OK so my .85m adjustment checked out fine at "1" on my digital meter like yours, and my .57m adjustment ready "1" also, does this mean the part is bad because I tried moving it CW and CCW and the meter never changed?

89whitetoyota

Ok, so I decided to try my buddies 93 22re entire throttle body unit including his sensor and IAVC. His was set fine before taking the intake off to do a head gasket, so I thought well I will just slap this little bish on and my truck should run great……but explain this….I put his throttle body on and fired the truck up and it just stayed at a smooth 2200 rpm, I couldn’t even kill the motor by pressing back on the throttle cable linkage closing the throttle body all way.

I basically loosened the throttle cable up to the point where is wasn’t even functional thinking I had it to tight, made no difference, I had the idle air screw closed tight, motor still stayed at 2200 rpm but the idle would go up if I loosened the idle air screw on top the throttle body??????? It stayed at 2200 rpm from cold start and never went down even when the truck was up to temp.

89whitetoyota

bump please