scubarunner

te1 and e1 jumped and the idle drops. I even checked the tps to be sure. What you guys are saying about things being lined up on 12:00 has me wondering. The first time I stabbed the dizzy in was prior to this tear down. I know that the timing mark on the crank was at 0 when the dist was put in, plus I had the dizzy at 12 and it rotated to 10 CCW just like it's supposed to. I have not stabbed the dizzy in on this reassemble. I was just looking at where the timing marks were at upon assembly. I am hoping that rotating it around a couple times will get it where it needs to be.

Thanks for all your help!

scubarunner

I just rotated the motor around 8 times and all is lined up. 2 cycles around I guess.

So much for following the instructions and lining up the timing marks on the cam gear.

Thanks for setting me straight. SO much for not being a newb to Yota's
0 degress

12:00

perfect 10:00

TOYOTA 1

thats perfect...

be sure to report back on how she runs....

scubarunner

so I finally got it fired up. Purred like a kitten, but the timing mark is still showing way retarded and I was unable to draw it in with the distributor. That leads me to believe that there is something else at play here. In the last picture I posted you can see that the #1 point on the rotor is lined up with the pickup, yet the motor is set at 5* BTDC. Should that be the case, or should the rotor shoe to be 5* advanced or advanced at all there?

I noticed that the distributor shaft has a mark on it that looks as if it should be lined up with the dist gear on the cam. Should it be? Here is a picture of what I am talking about. Faintly circled in Red.



I also have an oil leak that is getting on the crank pulley and flinging oil allover. I think it is the front main. I put a sleeve on the crank pulley and that may be causing issues. Tackling the oil leak is first on the agenda.

annoyingrob

Before sleeving the crank, try a front main seal from an early 22R motor. They sit on a slightly different spot.

As for the distributor, just check the running timing, and adjust accordingly. If it's running, no need to mess with static timing any more.

abecedarian

as for the timing, you have to short the te1 and e1 terminals in the diagnostic plug (also, the TPS has to signal IDL (idle position) to the ECU) in order to set the timing. If you're doing that, then maybe you need to pull the distributor out just enough so that you can rotate the rotor a bit so that you engage the next tooth on the gears.
But 5BTDC is where it's supposed to be at, with the jumper in place. 5BTDC means the timing is 'advanced' 5 degrees with respect to the crankshaft position.
If you have the diagnostic plug jumpered, the mark on the crankshaft should be illuminated when the plug fires, and the mark should be at the 5 mark to the left of 0.

scubarunner

I ran through everything again tonight... even went as far as to remove the throttle body and re-check and slightly adjust the TPS. It was on the high side of the measurements (VTE-E2 was 798, IDL-E2 @ .0224 was 1.25kOhm, and infinite at .0335), I drew it in a bit so it ended up closer to the mid-range. That seemed to fix the issue. Would this type of behavior indicate that the TPS is on the way out?

Anyway... timing is set and all seems well. runs smooth and seems to have good throttle response, etc. now on to other issues... lectric issues etc.

abecedarian

that could be a sign the tps is going. I'd run it for a while though and keep an eye on your mileage and stuff.

scubarunner

OK... so I am still having issues with my truck. It has fallen WAY outa time again, to the retarded side, and is now throwing Code 52. I checked the knock sensor circuit for continuity to the ECU and that seems to be fine. I also swapped the knock sensor itself for one out of a spare engine I had laying around. No luck It still throws the code. I now that the knock sensor will retard timing, but I didn't think it would retard it 20-30*. That is what I am seeing. I am lost.

One other thing I noticed is that the timing mark sometimes (irregularly and inconsistently) jumps to where it is in time for a brief second. Not enough to affect how the motor seems to be running. It doesn't stumble or anything.

scubarunner

TIMING ISSUE SOLVED!

Blame the User to Timing Gun interface. I was not aware that there was an "Advance Knob" on the timing light. It was set to 50 advance degrees, which somehow resulted in the timing mark showing 20-30* retarded timing. Duh! Once I realized that was there I dialed it back to 0 and my timing mark fell right into place.

Now Knock Sensor error. Thanks everyone for your help. I'll start a new thread for the KS now.