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22re tensioner pulley

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Old 08-02-2010, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by MortonPhotographic
Okay, now that I asked all the questions above, I decided to buy this bearing:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

There are 5 bearings left in this auction as of 7/31/2010

I chose this bearing because it was an NSK, it was the correct dimensions, I liked the metal shields, and because with my eBay bucks that were about to expire it cost me under $2.60--so what have I got to lose?

In the auction I found some good info on the letters after the part numbers as well. ZZ stands for the double metal, non contact shields and I went with C3 because it had greater tolerances for increased heat expansion--basically I figure this one can handle a little more heat than the other one I was looking at.

Please keep in mind I have no idea what I am doing! 8)
Hey guys,

When I did my wheel bearings, I searched the net and this site helped me a lot:
http://www.ntnamerica.com/faq.htm

It explains a few things about bearings and there is an interchange link for NTN bearings.

I don't think the bearings you bought on ebay are the best for your application but it should work. It looks like it was designed for electrical motors with very high rpm, thus the reason for non contact seal design. The contact design is for slower rpms but better grease retention.
Old 08-02-2010, 06:06 AM
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go to the stealership for the idler pully bearing. thats one of those things that you don't want to have leaving you stranded and out of beer.
Old 08-02-2010, 10:31 AM
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Thanks cunninglinguist. That makes perfect sense as these bearing were listed as EMQ (Electric Motor Quality, or something like that). So the bearing I got will let grease out and dirt in--not my best choice.

Last edited by MortonPhotographic; 08-06-2010 at 02:06 PM.
Old 08-06-2010, 01:41 PM
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interchangeable bearing

The 22re power steering pulley tensioner bearing is also the same bearing for a 1998
honda vfr 800f1 front wheel bearing. The honda part # is 91052-mae-004 its about $18
Old 11-21-2015, 07:24 PM
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I replaced mine with the Napa/SKF 6204-2RSJ bearing. It appears to be a decent bearing, it was manufactured in Bulgaria. I used a vise to press the old one out and the new one in. Pressing it out and in seems like the best way to do it as it is a snug fit. I used the old bearing to press the new one in. The old one was loud.
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Old 04-30-2022, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by blue_CA_yota
I got mine from NAPA, they had it in stock. It's the idler pulley. Think it cost me $40.
The only custom fab I needed was I had to add a washer on either side of the pulley between the retaining plates..

NAPA part # 38036
*the pulley had a smaller diameter, but it can be compensated for using the tension adjustment screw*
Aloha! my local napa has the same idler pulley in stock and been thinking about just installing that one instead of trying to pound out the old bearing out of my oem pulley... what size washer did you use? and did you use two of them on both sides of the pulley? also what do you mean by "the pulley had a smaller diameter, but it can be compensated for using the tension adjustment screw"?

im hoping that the problem is just the idler pulley/bearing and not the power steering one too.
any help would be greatly appreciated! thank you!
Old 04-30-2022, 07:03 AM
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I replaced both the AC and the power steering idler pulley bearing on my 1986 Toyota truck 22RE.

The power steering idler bearing was a 6309 bearing
The AC idler bearing was a 6203 bearing

Last edited by JoeS; 04-30-2022 at 07:05 AM.
Old 05-05-2022, 05:43 PM
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Removing Locking Hubs Cone Washers

Aloha everyone!
I have an 89' 22re 4x4 pickup and I'm in the process of changing my original brake rotors and brake pads. Also thinking about changing the calipers too...

First of all, does anyone have a solid method on how to remove the six cone washers off the hub??? I've tried a brass bar on the stud with a hammer and even used a rubber mallet to try and hit around the hub hoping to free the cone washers but I haven't had any luck. Its just soo rusty its ridiculous. I just seem to add dents to the hub and studs so I just stopped... if anyone has any ideas on how to remove them any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, if I buy a new pair of brake calipers, do they come with the pins and wire thingys to hold the pads together?
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