22re stupid questions...PITA BOLT, alternator, other side...?
04-15-2008, 03:18 PM
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22re stupid questions...PITA BOLT, alternator, other side...?
Searched around, cant find much help...so my stupidity combined with the weak labeling done by the PO (I bought the truck with engine out of bay, dissassembled) I got some questions:
88 4runner, 22re
1) 2 highest bolts on transmition bell housing (19mm and 17mm), any "easy" way to get to them, especially when it comes to torquing them? I can get a 1/16 turn with a wrench on them....
2) The bracket for the alternator is not lining up for me. Any chance anyone has a pic of how the bracket attaches, to power steering pulley bracket I believe?
3) On the opposite side of the engine as the alternator ( left side if looking at front of car), there are bolts going into the block. These blocks only held on the bracket for the AC compressor, right? If I am not going to be putting back AC, then these bolts can just be left out? Anything else have to be done to remove AC?
That should be it for now....hopefully after a rebuilt head, new valves, timing kit, cam, gasket kit, oil pump, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, wires and a little more help from Yotatech, we can be running in the next day or two. If anyone has a closeup pic of vaccuum lines, just to be sure as I said the PO didnt do a great job of labeling I would appreciate it too. THanks for any help
88 4runner, 22re
1) 2 highest bolts on transmition bell housing (19mm and 17mm), any "easy" way to get to them, especially when it comes to torquing them? I can get a 1/16 turn with a wrench on them....
2) The bracket for the alternator is not lining up for me. Any chance anyone has a pic of how the bracket attaches, to power steering pulley bracket I believe?
3) On the opposite side of the engine as the alternator ( left side if looking at front of car), there are bolts going into the block. These blocks only held on the bracket for the AC compressor, right? If I am not going to be putting back AC, then these bolts can just be left out? Anything else have to be done to remove AC?
That should be it for now....hopefully after a rebuilt head, new valves, timing kit, cam, gasket kit, oil pump, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, wires and a little more help from Yotatech, we can be running in the next day or two. If anyone has a closeup pic of vaccuum lines, just to be sure as I said the PO didnt do a great job of labeling I would appreciate it too. THanks for any help
04-15-2008, 03:57 PM
#2
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Check out the online FSM posted in this section. It's stickied so it should be near the top. That will give you a good idea for number 2, unless someone posts a picture. I would, but I'm at work so I can't right now.
For the other questions, I can't give you much advise as I haven't had to deal with either of them.
For the other questions, I can't give you much advise as I haven't had to deal with either of them.
04-15-2008, 04:45 PM
#3
1. Use a long extension (or two or three) to total about 30" long then a 19mm socket on the end in order to get the handle of the ratchet back where there is room to crank on it. Also, can unbolt the crossmember under the t-case and lower the back end of the drivetrain down and inch or two for more access (or throw in a 1" or so body lift, makes getting to those bolts a breeze).
2.
2.
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