Odin

Not a usable link. If your account is set to private nobody will be able to see it.

cammac.cmm

Odin

Third time is the charm?

cammac.cmm

What am i doing wrong.. that one works when i click it..
I cant find anything on my youtube saying its private
its had 3veiws..

Odin

I've tried it on my home computer and my phone while being logged in and while not logged in but still can't view it. It keeps telling me it's a private video.

Anybody else have the same problem?

bswarm

Click on "Video Manager" then on the right side of the video you want to click on the blue lock icon, then change it from "private" to "public"

cammac.cmm

Apparently my big dry fingers make pushing buttons difficult. Should be public now. Thanks guys

Odin

I read that as a code 22.
Water/Coolant temperature sensor fault.

Since you currently aren't complaining about a surging idle I think you might have a disconnected sensor, cut wire, shorted wire, or a bad sensor.
If bswarm, scope103 or wyoming9 comment go with their advice, they have a lot more experience with hunting this stuff down than me.

How much have you driven it since you had the battery disconnected? I'm just wondering if another code might pop up after more driving.

cammac.cmm

I had surging and idleling problems.. and my idle is at 1000..
im pullin sensor out tomorrow and testing when i do my thermostat.. pulling out stant and putting oem in.

And driven it a few days, enough that light has come on multiple times after hesitation problems..

Odin

Surging idle opens up a whole list of possibilities.

TPS out of adjustment
Idle set too high
Timing too far advanced leading to high idle
Manifold leak
Vacuum hose leak
and more...

There's a long list of stuff to check. This is just one result I got when I searched "surging idle". https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-22re-195583/
If you do a search there are plenty of examples and some walk through's by posters on how they solved them.

Since you're going to be replacing the thermostat, have you tried this yet?

cammac.cmm

I actually replaced that line.. mine had a hole.
And it doesnt surge anymore. But..
it always resets idle to 1000..
i had set it around 750 and after driving it had set its self to 1000..

Odin

With an old carbed engine I'd say vacuum leak but you've checked for that.
I assume you've taken the idle speed screw out and cleaned it up, tried resealing it with teflon tape, plus cleaned any vacuum port in the area.
I'm about out of ideas.

cammac.cmm

I hadnt thought of doing that with idle screw but i will.

cammac.cmm

So it seems ive found the problem.
My idle screw seal was bone dry and not sealing. Caused the high idle.

But worst.. my temp sender was cooked. Checked it out to see what plug looks like and it was loose.. came right out of the brass housing. I stuck it back in for my drive home from work and truck ran great.
Replacing it right now.

thanks everyone. And special thanks to odin!

Odin

That's awesome, but give a while before you get your hopes up.
That's when I usually have the rug pulled out from underneath me lol.

For the most part I'm just regurgitating what I've read on this board about surging idle problems. I'd like to find a new O-ring for my idle speed screw as mine is shrunk up a little and I don't like putting teflon tape on it. That kind of fix is TEMPORARY in my book.

My 22r-e has had a miss at idle and low rpm's since the day I got it (less than six month's ago) but otherwise seems to run ok. One cylinder's compression is a little lower than the others but I don't think it should be causing this problem. No ECU codes, coolant level is staying put, oil is staying pretty clean and doesn't smell of fuel. The previous owner installed a new cap, new rotor and new plug wires. These items were not Denso.
I installed new Denso plugs and changed the fuel filter. I have also removed all the main ground and power wires, cleaned them and bolted them back down.

I need to check more stuff (spark plug wire resistance, coil condition, set valves, etc) before I post for help, rule out the easy stuff ya know. It takes some of the guessing out of it for those with experience and the problem will be easier to point their finger at. I'm just not used to FI and having stuff controlled with sensors and a computer. I'm a 60'-70's V8 Chevy kinda guy. These Wee little machines are new to me

bswarm

There is a trim screw on the AFM that will smooth out the idle. It's factory sealed with an aluminum plug. If all else checks out ok, pull the plug out and adjust for smooth idle. We usually didn't unseal them until after 60k miles, after that it's almost required to get back a smooth idle.

Odin

My odometer is sitting at 160,000 but judging from the condition of the truck it could have more or someone used it for a construction site vehicle.

Plug? I take it you're talking about enriching the idle fuel mixture highlighted in red?
Information taken from the following link http://www.celicas.org/mods/afm.html

Fooling the Computer:
"A well-known technique used with AFM (mass AirFlow Meter) sensors is to "fool" the EFI computer into thinking that there is more air entering the intake than there actually is. This results in a richer mixture and often, improved power and throttle response. Here's OldMage's explanation of how to do this for the 22RE:

The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain access. Once inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left corner being held down by a Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of at least one of the ends. Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture, and counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this adjustment. Do not adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you have the gear wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal clip hold the wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and won't benefit much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds to the top-end.

You can adjust the idle mixture by carefully drilling out the aluminum plug in the lower right "corner" of the AFM near the outlet to the throttle-body. Tightening the screw beneath the plug makes the idle richer, loosening it leans the mix.

Another item to consider adjusting is the throttle-position sensor itself. It's the black square box on the driver's side of the throttle-body. There's 2 screws that hold it in place. Loosening them allows you to rotate the sensor. Clockwise advances the changes relative to throttle position. Too far and you'll "disable" the idle position. If you retard it too much, you'll go into lean misfire around 3000 rpm. It should go from idle setting to mid throttle around 2500 rpm, I think. I wish I had throttle-plate degree measurements or something more precise, but I don't. The plastic cover comes off so you can see the switch actions inside, which may help in adjusting it."

bswarm

No, that's the wrong way and only screws up the entire A/F ratio. It's under an aluminum plug on the top. Drill a small hole in the plug being careful not to drill too deep or you'll bury the adjust screw under it. Put a screw in the hole, wiggle out with pliers. Adjust a little at a time, more than 1 turn you have other problems. After adjustment, Put old plug or other cap in to prevent water or dirt getting in. Here's a photo showing plug removed on my truck... This trick works on more than Toyotas. Edit: Yes the text in RED. Re-clocking the gear or modifying the electronics is the wrong way. The reason they sealed it was for smog, they didn't want amateurs messing with it.

Odin

Gotcha, thanks for the pic

I can actually feel it at times when I'm driving giving it light, steady throttle at about 20-25mph.


When I have the hood up giving it throttle by hand I notice it miss and hesitate off idle and during lower rpm's. For some reason the hesitation isn't so noticeable under driving conditions.
If it was a Holley I'd probably give the idle mixture screws 3/4 of a turn but with FI and sensors I just don't know where to start, so many options, lots of little things to mess with lol


.

Coastal Trippin

Had Similar Problem, Code wouldnt read, had to catch it at right time. try replacing water temp sensor