Toyotabc

Hi everyone, its my first post on yotatech hope to find out whats wrong with my 22re.

I have a 1987 toyota pickup with a 22r motor. Recently I did a 22r to 22re swap with an 1986 efi donor engine. It seemed to run well till about a few weeks ago. The check engine light would come on for 5-20 seconds and shut off, while the light was on the truck would stumble at idle or at whatever rpm i was at driving at. I checked the code when it first came on and it blinks 2 times which points to the airflow meter. Now I have swapped multiple airflow meters that forsure worked and it still won't stop with the check engine light or the stumbling.

Here's the list of stuff I have checked so far:

Airflow meter(replaced with ones that worked before pulled)
checked the wiring resistance for the airflow meter to see if theres a broken connector and all seemed good

Tried a few ecu's from the same year and the problem came back immediately

Adjusted throttle position sensor

Set timing at 5 degrees with the jumpers on T and E at the diagnostic port

Checked Egr

spark plugs and wires all look normal

Took a stethoscope and checked for vacuum leaks(none was heard)

This problem is driving me nuts and I don't know what else to check for. Any help would be appreciated!

osv

the wiring resistance test is better than nothing, but it only needs a strand or two to pass, because the meter isn't putting much current through it.

did you connect all of the grounding points? google it, there are lists of 'em all.

if that's not it, the long shot could be a wiring/connector issue, do you happen to have access to another engine harness?

Toyotabc

Yeah I might be able to grab another AFM harness and try it out hopefully soon here. Trucks been a huge pain lately as now my OEM water pump with less than 600km is leaking out of the weap holes already. Almost think it would of been better carbed LOL

osv

you'll like the 22re much better than carb'd, once you get it running.

check for all of those ground connections, poor or missing grounds can cause all kinds of weird issues.

Toyotabc

Yeah I'll try and check everything on the weekend, thanks for the suggestions. I'll let you know how it goes

crawler85

Check the rubber connectors on each side of the plastic tube for cracks (that connect to AFM and throttle body).

Those are hard to detect, won't make a noise if they are leaking.

Toyotabc

Took the rubber off and checked it out and it looked good to go. Also sprayed starting fluid all over and no change, I'll look more when I get time this coming weekend

Toyotabc

Just made issues worse somehow...was messing around with my distributor air gap and long story short I set the gap too tight and wrecked that distributor LOL

Next day I go and get another distributor and put it in at TDC compression stroke and the rotor facing #1 spark plug wire and the motor runs like poo. Took a few tries to get the right tooth on the distributor but when I did get it correctly the motor misses at idle and bogs alot. I can't seem to get the timing set below 10degrees.

More annoyed than ever with this motor!

crawler85

I recommend taking a step back, ignore the code for now and check the basics.

Do you know your fuel pump pressure?

Good spark?

If you get it running is there a way to keep it at a smooth rpm with your foot on the pedal?

If so, disconnect/reconnect injectors one at a time. There is a notable difference in the engine when you disconnect a good injector.

Toyotabc

1100-1500 rpms it runs smooth, any other rpm it misses. I'll try disconnecting the injectors in a few minutes

Edit: Dark as heck already so I will continue more tom!

crawler85

Also, is this intermittent or steady now?

Does it occur during open loop and closed loop after warm up?

Toyotabc

The misfiring is steady now, it occurs warm or cold

Toyotabc

Now after changing out my igniter and coil the timing seems to be at 5degrees jumped and 12 degrees unjumped. The missing at idle has gone away unless I rev it in neutral and a constant rpm above 1200 it will miss. It's driveable right now just not that well.

Injectors seem like a pita to get to.

Did a compression test and was 160 on all 4 cylinders

Might take it into a shop to do a air/fuel reading and see what's going on in more depth...

crawler85

For about $30 you can install your own fuel ratio gauge.

Just make sure it is narrow band.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FJU8GC/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?qid=1459044765&sr=8-28&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=air+fuel+ratio+ gauge

Check your actual fuel pressure yet?

Toyotabc

Might bring it to a shop to let them check it, maybe hook a vacuum guage up to it to. Not alot of places will be open tom atleast to get anything done. Took all day to find these igniter and coil

Toyotabc

POSSIBLY might have found the issue. My water temp sensor(green plug next go cold start sensor) is measuring out of spec by ALOT. That could be causing the AFM light to come on. I'll be going to the parts store to pick one up and crossing my fingers it fixes it!

Toyotabc

Got a new water temp sensor and still no fix. New codes have arrived

Code 5 O2 sensor
Code 7 throttle position sensor

Now the throttle position sensor is out by only 20 ohms on one of the tests and the rest of the pins test good which is strange.

Trying to find a buddy with a fuel pressure gauge to borrow to double check mine

crawler85

yeah the water temp sensor should not have caused it.

don't go back to the TPS until you have ruled out everything else.

I had stumbling issues that ended up being a fuel pump putting out 20 psi, about half of the required pressure.

you can still do the quick injector check also in addition to the fuel pump.

Toyotabc

Ok so I got my rear in gear and pulled spark plug wires till I found one it ran good without. Number 3 spark plug wire off and the motor seems to run pretty good!

Edit: meant it would run similar to when it was plugged in, if I unplugged other cylinders it was much worse

crawler85

Come again? It shouldn't be running good on 3 cylinders.