22re stops making power at 3000RPMs
#1
22re stops making power at 3000RPMs
My 4runner has never ran right, it used to misfire at idle and not make power above 3000RPMs. I found out that 2 of my exhaust valve springs were shot. Instead of fixing that engine I got a deal on a LC Engineering 22re. After swapping in the LC Engineering engine my truck stopped misfiring and passed smog, but it still doesn't make power above 3000RPMs. I'm guess it's a fuel issue, but I don't know. I recently had my injectors rebuilt through Witchhunter Performance and replaced the fuel filter. I don't think it's the fuel pressure regulator because the vacuum line going to the FPR is dry and I hear when those fail fuel shoots up into that hose. Anyone else have any ideas? Thanks
#3
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how much power is the new 22re rated for. if you get one of the higher performance engines the fuel pump wont keep up with it at higher rpms. also try to see if you ecu is givving off any error codes. The basic gasoline engine needs .5 pounds of fuel per horsepower hour. I hope this helps you.
#4
Yeah I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but after searching the forums it seems like the fuel pumps on 22re's are hit or miss, either works or doesn't. Is there any way to check them?
I doubt it, it had the issue with the stock 22re also
how much power is the new 22re rated for. if you get one of the higher performance engines the fuel pump wont keep up with it at higher rpms. also try to see if you ecu is givving off any error codes. The basic gasoline engine needs .5 pounds of fuel per horsepower hour. I hope this helps you.
#5
Start by looking for a diagnostic code, see if it is the computer restricting revs, most ECU's will have a limp home mode which could be your case. If there is no probs with the ECU, check your fuel and air filters? Assuming it is an in tank EFI pump pull it out and check the strainer for blockage. It can only be fuel or air really.
#7
Start by looking for a diagnostic code, see if it is the computer restricting revs, most ECU's will have a limp home mode which could be your case. If there is no probs with the ECU, check your fuel and air filters? Assuming it is an in tank EFI pump pull it out and check the strainer for blockage. It can only be fuel or air really.
AFMs can have deadspots? If so, I have an extra. I'll throw that in and see what it does. If that doesn't work I'll drop the tank and check out the strainer.
Thanks for the help so far guys!
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#9
Yeah they can, they are more common at lower revs however. If you have another try that, or test the one installed with a multimeter. The FSM should have the proper procedure but bassicly you are just looking for a continous voltage increase as the vane opens without drop-outs. They can usualy be fixed by spraying some contact cleaner. Could very well be your problem...
This is why I love aftermarket ECU's haha...A quick look at a laptop screen and you know what all your sensors are doing, makes it easy to spot abnormalities.
This is why I love aftermarket ECU's haha...A quick look at a laptop screen and you know what all your sensors are doing, makes it easy to spot abnormalities.
#10
gut your cat for start unless emissions are a serious issue where ur at or you can get a new one... ur choice thats one thing i'm pretty nice about not being OEM. TunE-up? If you do not have NGK or OEM plugs in it this could be ur reason. OEM plug wires are highly required otherwise ur performance will vary. Hows ur coil? Distributor cap and button? Try cleaning your flapper door in ur airflow meter. Air filter? Timing? Idle set prop? Valves adjust properly when hot?
#11
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If you can, swap the cat with an off-road pipe instead of gutting it. LC Engineering sells one, ferexample.
If you gut it and you find out it wasn't the cat that was the problem, you just ruined a perfectly good (factory?) catalytic converter.
If it is the cat that's the problem, you can figure out how to buy a new one sometime between now and your next emissions test.
Hollowed-out-cats can adversely impact power compared to an off-road pipe, something about the extra turbulence in the exhaust flow.
If you gut it and you find out it wasn't the cat that was the problem, you just ruined a perfectly good (factory?) catalytic converter.
If it is the cat that's the problem, you can figure out how to buy a new one sometime between now and your next emissions test.
Hollowed-out-cats can adversely impact power compared to an off-road pipe, something about the extra turbulence in the exhaust flow.
#13
I changed both my cat and fuel filter within the last two years so those should still be alright.
I swapped in my extra MAF and FPR, but no luck fixing the problem. I'll wait till I use up what gas is left in my gas tank then proceed to drop it. Thanks for the help so far guys!
I swapped in my extra MAF and FPR, but no luck fixing the problem. I'll wait till I use up what gas is left in my gas tank then proceed to drop it. Thanks for the help so far guys!
#14
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This is my current problem, you may want to test your VAFM.
#16
While doing some light offroading the other day, after climbing a soft dirt hill my 22re refused to idle. It would drop to 500RPMs, then drop to 250RPMs, surge back up to 500RPMs 2 or 3 times then die. At first I thought it was a vacuum leak but I couldn't find out. I'm planning on dropping the fuel tank this weekend or sometime next week and we'll see what I find.
#17
I think I might have found the problem. It looks like my fuel strainer disintegrated and clogged the fuel pump. I'll install a new strainer tomorrow and see what it does. I attached pictures. In the second picture you'll can see some of the strainer which clogged the port. That's about half of what came out of it.
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