Island_Yota

idle is low and erratic sometimes, feels like its cammed.
noticeable power loss in lower rpm's
feels like its stalling/cutting at while im crusing at lower rpm's
revving it from idle, it isnt very responsive until it hits higher rpm's(no tach so im not sure what its revving)

It has happened briefly once before but went away. I was just driving it around tonight and it just wont run properly. I bought the truck a month ago and I know what it should feel like power wise. I barley made it through an intersection tonight because it wouldnt get going!

Its raining, ive hit a few puddles, something could easily be getting wet. I noticed while I was working on it the other day that it has a newer fuel line and filter.

Jay351

Checked the TPS??

Green_slime

do a basic tune up first plugs wires cap rotor if that dont work try fuel filter and then do a compression test it you might have low compression in one cylinder

rangerruck

before buying a bunch of parts, try a seafoam or other fave type cleaning
to the top end system...if still no worky, then to the plugs, cap/rotor, etc.,...

93YotaMonster

try checking the valves, one could be to tight or to loose. it happend to me, a few of mine were to tight and made it have low compression.

Lumpy

2X ^^^ SeaFoam it first then check valves should do it warm. Then plugs, wires, cap, rotor.

Island_Yota

Im thinking 02 Sensor, Wiring, or ECU, why?

When I start the truck dead cold it will run/idle perfect, as soon as it stops the cold start cycle the idle drops then starts running rough until it dies. Driving it it feels really sluggish in low RPM's and stalls, if I floor it from a higher rpm it comes to life. Coming to a stop it will be idling really low or just completely die. I read alot of threads on here about it before I posted, I checked for "black goo", TB looks totally clean, checked all my connections at the ignitor/distributor, took off the cap and there is no moisture and both cap and rotor look recently replaced, airfilter is fairly clean, tried running it without it in there just to see if it made a difference.. nope.

So the last thing I checked was the O2 sensor to see if it wasnt something obvious like melted wiring, well.. theres a bottle of brake fluid under my seat that must be slowly leaking.. right onto the connector/wires, I found a big exposed wire on the 02 sensor plug. Culprit? maybe? I started the truck with the 02 sensor unplugged and it runs exactly the same. I don't have a code reader, and I don't have the money to buy one, can't find anywhere to borrow one. I have a few spare 02 sensors (who knows if they are any good) but I might give one a try see if it makes any difference.

Another thing I noticed was, the cab is rusting on the pass. A pillar where the door seals against the sill, well.. there is water getting in there and running down to the floor but its leaking right down through where the ECU is, so I pulled the kick panel and the ECU is fine and dry but I noticed it has a sticker on it that says 22R, not 22RE, is that normal? I dont think it would make any difference considering this truck has been running pretty much perfect since I bought it.


Ive read and read and read some more through pages and pages of threads and haven't found a real answer. Doesn't seem like a fuel problem, its gotta be something to do with the timing, distributor/ignitor, TPS, 02 sensor, ECU, or wiring. The timing chain does slap for about 2 seconds on start up once in awhile but.. the fact that the motor runs perfect until its warm is what confuses me. I can't see it being a valve train/compression issue, motor was rebuilt 80,000km ago and it runs perfect cold.

Island_Yota

Just found this, il see what I can pull.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

Island_Yota

Basically, it runs fine until it goes into closed loop then it starts running rough and hesitates. It can be running horrible, shut it off, start it and it runs perfect for about 10 seconds.

snobdds

Sounds like your timing is off, cheap and easy check. If it is way off I would pull the valve cover and see if the cam gear has skipped a tooth.

Island_Yota

^ even if it runs perfectly fine before it goes into closed loop? Its quite possible that my timing skipped but, whats odd is the engine has done this for a short period of time before about a week ago.. driving done the road I felt the same hesitation and it went away, I highly doubt the timing bumped itself back but hey, anything is possible.


So I checked for codes with the engine off, its giving me a "51" which is "Switch signal". Pulled the EFI fuse for 30 seconds, same thing.. should I disconnect the battery for a bit and to clear the code and check again? then run it and check?

As far as I know Code 51 that means the idle switch is malfunctioning, I dont know where to even look for it. Could also be a vaccuum switch?


Man, my 20R is so much simpler than this thing.

Island_Yota

Ok, so some more reading says it could be the TPS, which makes sense.

edit:

I don't have A/C so.. TPS?

grr..

hiltu

Roger Brown is the pooh... heres something that might help: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Island_Yota

Thanks for the link!

Its reading codes 41 and 51 now.

41= Open or short in TPS Signal
51=TPS/Switches/ECU


Unplugging the TPS made no difference in how it ran, taking the jumper off the diag. port made no difference.


Here's how it runs:

Cold Start: runs perfect, consistent RPM.
Goes into Closed Loop: idle drops, inconsistent RPM, wants to stall.

Holding the throttle steady in one spot it will rev up then fall off and stumble and sit there stumbling, press the throttle harder it will rev higher then stumble and fall back down again. Rev it up high and it sounds normal.


I guess all I can do is make sure the TPS wiring and grounds are good, then the TPS itself.. if that all checks out its the wiring harness itself or the ECU.

Island_Yota

Ok, so I ended up pulling the throttle body off, adjusting the throttle stop, dashpot and tps to spec. Put it all together and it still chokes out once its warm. I noticed if I turn my idle/air screw all the way out it would idle well enough that I could jump the diagnostic port and make sure the TPS was infact working, which it is. So I wound the idle screw back in and at a certain point it would choke the motor out and there would be a weird sound in the airbox.

So, I figured it was a Vaccum leak so I started pulling lines and troubleshooting.. nothing. Got a good look at the EGR and.. the big nut on the EGR itself was completely loose, big huge vacuum leak. Got that done up and now I can adjust the idle screw right down, no more weird sound in the airbox. After all that I took it for a test drive, 45 mins.. still feels strange, not nearly as bad and now that I actually have Vaccuum my brakes work 10x better. Heres how it runs now, low RPM its sluggish, then all of the sudden it will take off like a shot, shudders a bit cruising at some speeds/rpms, other than that its much better.

Ran it for codes and its clear, Not sure what else it could be now, quite possible that its the fuel filter or pickup. The fuel filter is brand new and theres some new lines and clamps underneath, could be crap in the tank? Timing is dead on.. not sure what else it could be.

874runnersr5

If you guys dont got sniffer tests in bc, rip off the egr..

Island_Yota

Nah, its all brand new and seems to be working.


I don't know what the F*** is wrong with this thing anymore, still runs great on cold start. Then it starts running horrible, has no power unless I redline the out of it, have to cruise on the hwy in 4th gear or it just cant pull itself along, Studders and sputters intermittently.

Almost rear ended someone because it was all choked out in first gear then all of the sudden it took off like normal.

ECU isn't showing any codes, all I can think of is fuel filter, which is brand new.

screech

you floor it hesitates then guns, or your cruising along then it acts like it exhauls (cat converter plugged). your sure the tps is set correctly? That is one thing I have not been into the 22re much, but fords are to be .98v for return signal.
The numbero uno reason for a failed or incorrectly set tps is hesitation.
clean your o2 sensor while your aggrivating yourself.

screech

injectors if you thought a fuel problem.
take a screwdrive as a mechanic stethascope and put it to each injector.
or take an actual mechanic stethascope.
Get a bottle of fuel injector cleaner.
I want to see your compression test results too.

Island_Yota

If im below a certain RPM it will hesitate and sputter, its a weird feeling, once it gets past a certain RPM it will pull like normal.

100% on the TPS, I have it set perfect, whether its working is beyond me, I did all I tests on it and from what I can see its in good working order.