Rocketwrencher

Not exactly sure what happened. I changed the timing chain, gears, tensioner, guides(steel), oil pump, water pump, and timing cover last week. Once I was done, I adjusted all the valves hot to spec and adjusted the timing. It ran great except for a slight tapping sound at high rpm. I figured I would take the valves to .07 and .09 this weekend and decided to drive the 60 miles one way to work yesterday at 3:30am. About half way there, I noticed the motor was running a little hotter than normal but not to bad and then it happened. The motor completely seized up and shut down. The starter would not turn it over. I thought maybe a valve or spring had snapped and fell in one of the pistons. I started to take it apart last night and when I took off the valve cover, nothing looked wrong. I am going to continue disassembling it this weekend to include removal of the head but was wondering if any body had heard of this or has any ideas of what it might be. With the timing chain disconnected, the cam will turn but the crankshaft will not. It is a 91 22RE automatic with only 88,000 original miles on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am taking detailed photos of the disassembly if anybody would be interested in seeing them.

deserthound

Yes, definitely post the pics. Always good to see what has happened and why.

ssupercoolss

my guess is lack of friction reducing compound. (oil) not saying it wasnt there, but did you make sure the oil pump was primed and pumping properly?

Rocketwrencher

The oil was changed at the same time the work was done and when I removed the cover, there was definitely fresh oil on the top of the block. So much so tha the little cavity where the hidden timing cover bolt is was full. If I did loose oil pressure, the light would have come on and it never did. I will post the pics hopefully tonight when I get home.

abecedarian

sounds like you spun some crank bearings.
out of curiosity, when you installed the chain guides, were the old guides broke? and you said you changed the timing cover so i'm guessing the above question was moot and the chain had worn through the cover filling your crankcase with coolant.
if that's the case, the water in the oil, before you did the work, probably toasted your bearings.
and yes, pics are great.

Rocketwrencher

Yes, the old guides were broke. I changed the timing cover because I got the whole kit and the old one worn from the chain but not all the way through. When I drained the old oil, there was no sign of coolant in the pan. I will post the pics (I think the came out awsome) but it will be later tonight. I figured with all the hoses and plugs on the fuel infected engine, the pics will be a big help at reassembly. If anybody needs a really good clear pic of any particular part, let me know.

Rocketwrencher

One thing I haven't done yet is drain the new oil though, so will try to do that tonight and check for signs of coolant. The dipstick does look clean though. The more I think about it, the more I am pretty sure the whole thing will need to come out.

Cyberman

If the crank isn't spinning, it'll all have to come out. A friend of mine has a 22RE, and after very low miles, broke the crank in 2. She didn't drive far to work, so the engine (and oil) never really came up to temperature. A knock is obviously either valves, pistons slapping, or spun bearing. Did the engine squeal at all (like bad belts)?

Rocketwrencher

Nope. Belts never sqealed. As a matter of fact, there really wasn't any definite sound at all. Just a slight clunck, and dead. I didn't even have the radio on because I was trying to listen for the slight knock. Anyway, I almost had enough time to get the intake off before my pop-warner meeting, so I do have some more pics. I have a bunch, so this is just a few of the major ones. If I can figure out how to add pics.
O.K. I guess my pics are too good. 7.2 camera shows 2+ megs per pic. How do I shrink in pic viewer to upload? I will put them on disk and take them to work so I can upload if anybody has any suggestions.

Rocketwrencher

O.K. I talked my son into helping me and he was more than willing to show his dad up, so here are some of the early pics. Props to my son for helping an old man out. (I'm only 42).

Matt16

You're going to have to pull the pan. The front diff has to come out. The bottom end sounds like the problem.

Cyberman

You can do all of this to find out if you spun a rod bearing. You might be able to check the mains as well. You can even platigage to see if it's all still to spec. But if you did spin a bearing, you'll need to pull the entire engine anyway. Having just gone through all of this, you might as well pull the motor, and save the trouble of dropping the diff. Especially if the crank isn't turning.

I asked if you had any squeals, cause that's what happened with mine: loud squeal (like a belt), and then piston knocking.

That is one clean looking engine.

Rocketwrencher

The truck is a 2WD so I dont have to worry about the diff, but pulling the pan on a 2WD is also a pain because of the sway bar. Even with the motor jacked up, you have to disconnect the sway bar. If I dont find anything wrong when I pull the head, I am just gonna pull the block. No chuncks came out when I drained the oil last night.

Rocketwrencher

Question is, if it is the block, am I better off rebuilding the whole motor and putting quality parts in it or buying a new built long block? I have seen some decent motors for about $1600.00. And if I do rebuild it, what type of crankshaft, pistons, cam, and valves should I go with to get good performance and not sacrifice too much in milage? I definitly plan on keeping the truck. After all, I only paid $2000.00 for it 3 1/2 years ago with 25000 origional miles on it from my wifes grandfather.

Rocketwrencher

O.K. Got the intake off, the head off, pulled the pan, and no visible signs of catastrophic failure. I am including picks. The one that is kinda out of focus is a close up of some material in the pan. Silver flakes (probably aluminum) and some gold/copper flakes. The gold copper flakes makes me think bearing. Is there a way to tell visually if the bearing/s is/are froze? A guy at work told me that the tranny or torque converter could have failed. Would that be possible at 60 mph and still coast to a stop in drive? If It is the bearing/s, does the block have to be pulled and/or replaced? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Rocketwrencher

Ignore this post

93_22re

i see coolant by the oil pickup

Rocketwrencher

Yea, I forgot to drain the block before I pulled the head. My garage floor suffered about a quart or two.

Rocketwrencher

And another quart when I pulled the timing cover after head and pan removal.

Cyberman

I can't see the pics right now, cause I'm replying on my phone. tiny flakes are more than likely a bearing. That's what I found in my pan. if it is bad enough, you can wiggle the rod. Try to pull the rod caps and take a look. Or, pull the motor, then take a look. With a spun bearing, the crank will need spec'd and machined if necessary , new bearings installed, and possibly a new rod.