22re sick when wet, sick tps, sick timing advance
10-05-2011, 01:58 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
22re sick when wet, sick tps, sick timing advance
ok, first thread. 92 4x4 p/u 22re, since i bought truck (2009) i learned the hard way not to get it wet. "you have something wrong" light, sputter, dead. no starting no matter how many times i verify dry dist., coil, ignit., wires, and tps. attempts to start result in quick fire up, see idle for half a second, and dead. additional throttle input has no positive effect. starts when it feels like it later, fast on hot day, longer wait on cold day
also, since having truck, an occasional "bump" would happen when driving, i call it a missfire. . . .maybe not, violent off-on off-on of power accompanied by a check engine light that only stays lit for the durration which is usually a few seconds.
this truck hates factory timing on regular fuel. 5 deg. before tdc W/ CHECK CONNECTOR IN PLACE results in awesome "marbles in tin-can sound" i run 1-2 degrees to minimize pinging
yesterday i ohmed out tps. failed my newb test. i am not an automotive electrical expert! but testing "by the book" showed an innability to maintain proper resistance values at pre-determined and guaged throttle inputs. w.o.t. was completely imposible because as soon as i got to it, meter would show zero. after ordering new part, (while i have to make do with bad) i set tps as far advanced (against throttle rotation) as possible as that gave the best "happy medium" for other readings
i now isolated my "bump" condition to 100% of the time at a specific throttle opening, load or free reving. whereas before, it was far more intermittent and random and only under load. like once a day. i noticed no difference in pinging and know that the ecu still recognizes idl position because it idles down with check connector installed
today it rained. i barely made it to the toyota dealer. died numerous times luckily at speed and would coast-start itself after a few seconds. never did that in the rain before. only a large puddle or "lets see where the new leak is" degrease and hose down would do that normally. trying to leave the dealer it would not start, popped hood, checked everything high like usual, then, looking low, noticed the wire from my oil filter's midget look alike (knock sensor?) wiggled it and she started. if that is the knock sensor, a failing circuit would only cause ecu to go fail-safe and retard timing. . . . . . . .and throw a code i believe
does tps affect timing advance? would a failing tps possibly result in timing advancing too far for given load values. shouldn't the knock sensor over-ride and correct? if my knock sensor is bad would flash codes not point me its direction, the only codes i've ever seen flash seem to be a combination of tps and coil/ign circuit. gunna be a few days before i get new tps. if thats not the real problem then at least i know it wont be later. any help please?
also, since having truck, an occasional "bump" would happen when driving, i call it a missfire. . . .maybe not, violent off-on off-on of power accompanied by a check engine light that only stays lit for the durration which is usually a few seconds.
this truck hates factory timing on regular fuel. 5 deg. before tdc W/ CHECK CONNECTOR IN PLACE results in awesome "marbles in tin-can sound" i run 1-2 degrees to minimize pinging
yesterday i ohmed out tps. failed my newb test. i am not an automotive electrical expert! but testing "by the book" showed an innability to maintain proper resistance values at pre-determined and guaged throttle inputs. w.o.t. was completely imposible because as soon as i got to it, meter would show zero. after ordering new part, (while i have to make do with bad) i set tps as far advanced (against throttle rotation) as possible as that gave the best "happy medium" for other readings
i now isolated my "bump" condition to 100% of the time at a specific throttle opening, load or free reving. whereas before, it was far more intermittent and random and only under load. like once a day. i noticed no difference in pinging and know that the ecu still recognizes idl position because it idles down with check connector installed
today it rained. i barely made it to the toyota dealer. died numerous times luckily at speed and would coast-start itself after a few seconds. never did that in the rain before. only a large puddle or "lets see where the new leak is" degrease and hose down would do that normally. trying to leave the dealer it would not start, popped hood, checked everything high like usual, then, looking low, noticed the wire from my oil filter's midget look alike (knock sensor?) wiggled it and she started. if that is the knock sensor, a failing circuit would only cause ecu to go fail-safe and retard timing. . . . . . . .and throw a code i believe
does tps affect timing advance? would a failing tps possibly result in timing advancing too far for given load values. shouldn't the knock sensor over-ride and correct? if my knock sensor is bad would flash codes not point me its direction, the only codes i've ever seen flash seem to be a combination of tps and coil/ign circuit. gunna be a few days before i get new tps. if thats not the real problem then at least i know it wont be later. any help please?
10-05-2011, 05:22 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
lot to read guys but . . . . anything. . . . . . . . . today's flash code: coil/ignitor circuit which translates bump. . . . . . . . bump bump bump bump
10-05-2011, 07:08 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
the ignitor. . . . . . could that possibly cause my ignition advancement issue? I heard they just work or dont work but thats way to simple for me lol. and thank you for the reply.
10-05-2011, 07:13 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
keep in mind that my previous truck was an 04 chevy silverado that though i never had to work on, developed a sense of how an obdII system works and may be over thinking the simpler system on my yota
10-05-2011, 07:18 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
anybody heard of a table possibly showing timing advance values for a 22re during normal operation? i would have to get an adjustible timing light but may be worth it. gues it would have to only show for no load circumstances though as i dont see myself riding on the core support while my buddy drives me around with a timing light, hood up hahahaha
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10-05-2011, 07:40 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
ok, hate to admit this but i have never even SEEN the ecu on this truck, i will soak truck and take a look but i have never noticed the passenger floor being wet. and cman1, yours seems to be the more common issue of moisture in dist, wires, or tps. i was thinking my water issue may be tps related but my truck runs like a champ with tps disconnected sooooooooo my water issue must be ignition related. . . . even with new wires, cap, rotor, cap-to-dist seal, etc etc. the only things old are the dist. itself, coil/ignitor, and any wiring that doesn't go coil-dist-plugs
10-06-2011, 05:13 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
that sounds worth a try. also, how many people actually run with their inner fender-wells complete? Also, you say windshield, havac intake is those slits upove the hood right?
Last edited by 92dlxman; 10-06-2011 at 05:23 PM.
11-09-2011, 05:49 PM
#12
Im reviving this thread,today,in this wet snow ,its doing it again,usually runs perfect,really,ecu is dry,when it gets wet out,like car wash or now wet snow,no power up to 3200 or 3400 (rpms) then kicks in like a mule!!! runs and idles like crap untill it sits and dries off,then runs perfect again.just did FULL tune-up,plugs,cap,rotor,head gasket,timing chain....wth...
Last edited by cman1; 11-09-2011 at 05:51 PM.
11-09-2011, 07:37 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
didn't know this thread got started again! my problem got worse to the point of not running dry!
replaced coil, tried 2 ignitors (my junkyard guy rules) and checked continuity from ignitor to ecu.
finally one night i removed my upper intake, and split the harness from ignitor all the way back to the firewall (where it goes into cab). after a semi-sober inspection, and no apparent problem, i re-insulated. when i say that i mean tape, factory conduits, tape, tape, tape lol. make sure and and use good tape. like the best you can buy. im already redoing where i ran out of "the good stuff" and substituted with chepo stuff i had in my box
RUNS LIKE A CHAMP!!!!!!!!!!!
replaced coil, tried 2 ignitors (my junkyard guy rules) and checked continuity from ignitor to ecu.
finally one night i removed my upper intake, and split the harness from ignitor all the way back to the firewall (where it goes into cab). after a semi-sober inspection, and no apparent problem, i re-insulated. when i say that i mean tape, factory conduits, tape, tape, tape lol. make sure and and use good tape. like the best you can buy. im already redoing where i ran out of "the good stuff" and substituted with chepo stuff i had in my box
RUNS LIKE A CHAMP!!!!!!!!!!!
11-09-2011, 07:38 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
shoot i almost forgot, i had a ground on my fuel injector rail, and moved it to the upper/lower intake mounting stud. not sure if it helped but certainly didn't hurt
11-10-2011, 04:16 PM
#18
well, today before work,i took the dizzy cap off,rtv'd around cap,swapped out coil/igniter with a known good spare,and pulled ECM out,dry,still was running the same ...finally dried out after about a 30 minute drive ,runs perfect..WTF?i still have no idea WHAT dried out...
Last edited by cman1; 11-10-2011 at 07:12 PM.
11-15-2011, 10:56 PM
#20
just did... yesterday i went over the harness,retaped everything,rtv'd every little hole in the fenders,pulled the ecu back out and sat it on the floor,for now.and went to the car wash...same friggin thing,idles bad,runs bad up till 3200 then kicks in like a turbo...does this until it dries out.
