22REFORME

Ok, first off i don't like to make new posts when with alittle searching most answers can be found. However, i looked and just couldn't find anything specific enough. I would also like to thank anyone who decides to read the following since its kinda lengthy.... so here goes...

I bought a 95 pick up, 4wd, 5spd, 22re from a guy that told me the head gasket was blown in it. I took the motor out sent the head to the machine shop, who told me the head was all good. I then discovered that the problem was that the chain had eaten through the front cover, mixing oil and water. ok so i ordered gaskets, a new timing chain set, and put the motor back together. I did not check the valves to see if they needed adjustment.
I started the truck and it started right up but ran poorly, there was valve noise and there was some other clicking going on, also the motor was vibrating a good bit. i thought that maybe the distributor was off a bit so i spent some time adjusting it and readjusting it. After messing with things for some time the motor seemed to run a little better but still sounded like a diesel and still shook at idle. I don't have a timing light either so i am not to sure where i am at there. The motor seemed to run good (aside from the various noises) with aliittle gas, like it seemed to make power with your foot in it a bit.
I made the poor decision to take the truck down the road and see how it acted. When taking off or in low rpms the motor would shake and not make power as if it were missing almost, but once you got going it seemed better. well i was going along and suddenly the truck died, i pulled over and cranked it a couple times but it sounded bad, like no compression bad. After a few minutes i descovered that the rotor in the distributor was not spinning and there for there was no spark.
$100 dollars later, i was towed back to my shop where i discovered i had a broken timing chain. I tore the truck down again, this time leaving the motor in the truck and just pulling the front cover. there wasn't any damage inside the cover aside from the broken link on the chain. As i was worried i may have damaged the valves i was anxious to know for sure. Following my same method, info printed from alldata, i installed my old timing chain. I put the motor back together, turned the key and it STARTED. yippy. however to my dismay it sounded and acted very much like it had b4. This time i let the motor warm up and then i shut it down and adjusted all the valves. After adjusting the valves i started it again to find almost no change in the sounds it made or in how the motor was running. I left the truck running for about an hour outside and then shut it off. later this evening, after having a long day of various other car problems i decided to say #$&@ it and drive the truck home, about 12 miles. hehehe. figured i would just leave it to whoever wanted it if it broke down again.
Well, i made it home. The truck did not have the proper amount of power on the trip and it seemed like it was still running off and the shaking still seems like to much. I am basically asking where i should go from here with troubleshooting. Any and all input will be appreciated, if you want to give me technical advise, if you want to tell me how stupid i am .. SUPER! i'll take anything i can get. I apologize ahead of time if this is just a big turd of a post but please understand i have been in my shop all day with kerosene heaters....

thanks in advance,
22re in NY

ozziesironmanoffroad

get a friggin timin light! lol. make sure its at about 8degres b4 TDC (i think thats what the factruoy reocomends, adjsut as yoyum will). id be willin to bert your prob,em ois with with the inekctors

80W90

oh jeez...

you got issues. take the head off. your vcalves are probly toast.
chances are, what ever you screwed up the first time putting the chain on, you probly did it again, and made a bad situation worse.

start by watching for proper valve operation while you turn the crank by hand... good luck

80W90

damn you must be drunk!

ozziesironmanoffroad

gee ya think?23

toytech76

Yes. get a timing light. Also to start, do a compression check to make sure you didnt damage any valves. Make sure you have the cam timed right and the distributor timing correct. When the motor is at tdc the pin on the cam should be straight up. Look at the distributor gear. There is a small notch in the top of one of the teeth. That tooth/notch should be just ahead of the cam gear when its timed right. Factory timing is 5 deg btc

22REFORME

Maybe i am high right now... But heres a question.

At TDC should the mark on the cam be at 12 o'clock and the mark on the crank be at zero?

i am so tired i should just wait till tomorrow to even ask questions but i am dead curious i dunno if i can sleep. haha

thanks for all the replies!

80W90

you might have even installed the cam 180 degrees out


the first and second time

22REFORME

how would that be possible? when i installed the chain, the key way on the crank was at 12 o'clock and the mark on the cam was also at 12. if the cam was 180 off the mark would have been at 6 right?

22REFORME

what do you mean by "just ahead of the cam gear" ?can you explain further?

80W90

if you did it that way, its right.

80W90

as the teeth are meshing, the mark should be visible, and just inline to be meshed next.

22REFORME

wow anyone got a picture of this notch and the gears meshing? i can't visualize it.

toytech76

crank pulley set at zero, cam pin stright up. Best thing for you to do is pull your valve cover and look at your dist gear for the notch. you will understand once you see it

22REFORME

i am going out to try and readjust the distributor.. i hope that does the trick as far as it running like crap. The only other thing i noticed today by looking around online is that my chains seemed like they had a bunch more slack on the right hand side. like almost a link buckled on itself kinda slack. I am fairly sure the new chain i had put on had the same amount of slack also, so i don't know that its the fact that i am using the old chain. Is there any way i could have gotten the wrong size gears? i am just shooting in the dark on this idea.

isaac338

get a timing light. "messing around" with stuff doesn't fix problems - using the right tools in the right way does.

ovrrdrive

You need a timing light....

Once you set the timing if it still shakes then you're probably a tooth off on the gears.

kj1074

get a timing light. they are cheap and easy to use, no excuses! haha. just another shot in the dark, injectors, fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotor, cap all ok?
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I wonder how many of you actually read his post...

He BROKE the timing chain. 22R engines are INTERFERENCE engines. THerefore, if the timing chain BROKE while driving, you bent some valves.

Its pretty hard to screw up the timing on a 22R, just match up all the timing marks (IE 0 on the crank pulley, cam notch straight up) and the new timing set would have different colored links where they match to marks on the timing gears.

Best way to check the distributor: Make sure the engine is set to 0' TDC on the compression stroke, (It will not run at all if the distributor is 180 out, so you know its at least in the right place) remove the cap and make sure the rotor is pointing straight at #1 on the cap.

So, that said. If your mechanical timing is right and your distributor is in the correct location, you have a bent valve or two.

BTW for all you guys saying "get a timing light" a 22RE will run great even if its not exactly in time. You can adjust it from lock to lock on the distributor bolt, and it will still run good enough to drive. Not like he is describing. Fix your other problems FIRST, and THEN worry about ignition timing.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Yes, this is the correct setting for mechanical timing.

Cam at 12:00

Notch on Balancer set to 0 (which means the crank key is also at 12:00)