22RE Rear Dually 4x4
#1
22RE Rear Dually 4x4 5spd SR5 TUNE UP
Hi Newbie here
I have a bone stock '86 22RE SR5 5spd 4x4 1-ton dually with 125k - It is ready for a complete service.
The plan is to do a full motor and basic drivetrain tune up before i head out on a 3 month 25k trip Ny to Ca to ALaska to Maine to Ny road trip.
As of now it runs decent and has good compression but it is just a bit sluggish and underpowered.
i have read so many forum pages but could not find a thread thats speak solely about an OEM restoration/tuneup focused on reliability.
i am looking to keep the OEM quality and gas mileage but to re-energize the stock motor and possibly gain a bit more HP and torque. Long highway drives with lots of high mountain passes and then off road to remote camp sites RELIABILITY is most important.
The parts list and service i am going to do are listed below.
my main questions are ...
...what injectors are best for my application? rebuilding old ones or buying new injectors? cold air intake or stock filter? new hi flow throttle body?
cat back exhaust? ...or headers, hiflow cat and full 2.25 piping to rear?? any problems with O2 sensors with 2.25 exhaust ? what sites carry these parts?
here is a link i was looking at as a possible option...
http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-8...-p/1060002.htm
here is my list so far. ... suggestions welcomed...!
tune up:
------------------
air filter
cabin air filter
oil filter
oil (sea foam)
oil pan gasket
thermostat + gasket
hoses
radiator flush
plugs = cap + wires
vacuum lines
injector O-rings
pcv valve + rubber grommet
belts
fuel filter
TPS sensor test - DVOM
O2 sensor
flush tranny
flush diff front and rear
valve adjustment + gasket
timing adjust
grease all joints
battery replace
engine ground check
drivetrain
-----------------------------
new shocks
add a leaf in rear
bushings
tires + stem valves
grease wheel bearings
cut rotors/drums
brake pads front and rear
bleed lines
thanks for the help and feedback
-aj
I have a bone stock '86 22RE SR5 5spd 4x4 1-ton dually with 125k - It is ready for a complete service.
The plan is to do a full motor and basic drivetrain tune up before i head out on a 3 month 25k trip Ny to Ca to ALaska to Maine to Ny road trip.
As of now it runs decent and has good compression but it is just a bit sluggish and underpowered.
i have read so many forum pages but could not find a thread thats speak solely about an OEM restoration/tuneup focused on reliability.
i am looking to keep the OEM quality and gas mileage but to re-energize the stock motor and possibly gain a bit more HP and torque. Long highway drives with lots of high mountain passes and then off road to remote camp sites RELIABILITY is most important.
The parts list and service i am going to do are listed below.
my main questions are ...
...what injectors are best for my application? rebuilding old ones or buying new injectors? cold air intake or stock filter? new hi flow throttle body?
cat back exhaust? ...or headers, hiflow cat and full 2.25 piping to rear?? any problems with O2 sensors with 2.25 exhaust ? what sites carry these parts?
here is a link i was looking at as a possible option...
http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-8...-p/1060002.htm
here is my list so far. ... suggestions welcomed...!
tune up:
------------------
air filter
cabin air filter
oil filter
oil (sea foam)
oil pan gasket
thermostat + gasket
hoses
radiator flush
plugs = cap + wires
vacuum lines
injector O-rings
pcv valve + rubber grommet
belts
fuel filter
TPS sensor test - DVOM
O2 sensor
flush tranny
flush diff front and rear
valve adjustment + gasket
timing adjust
grease all joints
battery replace
engine ground check
drivetrain
-----------------------------
new shocks
add a leaf in rear
bushings
tires + stem valves
grease wheel bearings
cut rotors/drums
brake pads front and rear
bleed lines
thanks for the help and feedback
-aj
Last edited by garagespace; 07-09-2015 at 11:54 AM.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
As much as I love my Toyota vehicles I sure would not want to take a Truck that old that far.
With that engine loaded as heavy as it would be to haul all the basic supplies Do you have any idea of what your weight will be ??
I drove one of about this vintage pretty much unloaded Kids on bicycles pasted me going up a few hills.
You don`t need to worry about getting up the mountain passes it is getting down
Unless your getting into doing some major head work a tune up is not going to give you much gain in power.
Stick with the stock air filter system easier to find parts .
Injectors get them cleaned and checked replace if needed.
If your doing this and this has seen any winter chemicals replace all the brake and fuel lines!!.
It is mechanical it will break down most likely in the worse possible place no matter your best efforts.
With that engine loaded as heavy as it would be to haul all the basic supplies Do you have any idea of what your weight will be ??
I drove one of about this vintage pretty much unloaded Kids on bicycles pasted me going up a few hills.
You don`t need to worry about getting up the mountain passes it is getting down
Unless your getting into doing some major head work a tune up is not going to give you much gain in power.
Stick with the stock air filter system easier to find parts .
Injectors get them cleaned and checked replace if needed.
If your doing this and this has seen any winter chemicals replace all the brake and fuel lines!!.
It is mechanical it will break down most likely in the worse possible place no matter your best efforts.
#3
thanks for the reply wyoming9.
toyota made a whole line of 18/21 foot RV's called Sunraders/Dolphins/Oddesy/Chinook for a few years in the 80's. they all had 22r 22re or 22re turbos.. most, if not all of them, are still running strong
i am not expecting 15hp gains..but more of an updated tuned OEM setup.
if i am going to replace many parts as per a full tune up i figured i might as well update to better performing parts at the same time. ie: injectors, exhaust, throttle body, air.
toyota made a whole line of 18/21 foot RV's called Sunraders/Dolphins/Oddesy/Chinook for a few years in the 80's. they all had 22r 22re or 22re turbos.. most, if not all of them, are still running strong
i am not expecting 15hp gains..but more of an updated tuned OEM setup.
if i am going to replace many parts as per a full tune up i figured i might as well update to better performing parts at the same time. ie: injectors, exhaust, throttle body, air.
Last edited by garagespace; 04-19-2015 at 09:51 AM.
#4
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For the cost of the LCE upgrade and all the campers I have seen have the auto transmission in them. I would trade the LCE upgrade for a 4 or 5 speed manual transmission. Never understood why they put automatics in those campers. Looks to me like you have your bases covered otherwise.
#5
For the cost of the LCE upgrade and all the campers I have seen have the auto transmission in them. I would trade the LCE upgrade for a 4 or 5 speed manual transmission. Never understood why they put automatics in those campers. Looks to me like you have your bases covered otherwise.
i figured updating the air intake to a kn cone type, adding the performance throttle body and injectors and opening the exhaust would be a decent upgrade over stock.
just not sure what parts are quality and have good results and compliment the stock motor specs.
Last edited by garagespace; 04-19-2015 at 12:32 PM.
#6
if you look at your stock airbox, it should have a pipe that's pulling in cool outside air, from the high-pressure area in front, next to the radiator.
most cone filter installs pull in hot air from inside the engine compartment... cool dense air makes more power than hot air... there are also questions about whether or not the cone filters do a better job of filtering air than the stock restrictive air filter does.
i would not waste money on seafoam, if it was my truck.
most cone filter installs pull in hot air from inside the engine compartment... cool dense air makes more power than hot air... there are also questions about whether or not the cone filters do a better job of filtering air than the stock restrictive air filter does.
i would not waste money on seafoam, if it was my truck.
Last edited by osv; 04-19-2015 at 05:42 PM.
#7
Some of those 80's companies did some very sketchy frame extensions. Check the underside of your chassis to make sure your holding/water tanks etc are still mounted securely. I have seen some real disasters waiting to happen under some clean looking toy based motorhomes.
Losing a tank on the Alcan would suck.
http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com
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#8
i posted here to get feedback mostly on the OEM 22RE motor and possible upgrades i can do to it as i get ready for a complete tune up. .
here is what i am hoping to get feedback on ...
1) INJECTORS...what are the best quality performance injectors to replace oem stock with? or just rebuild the OEM injectors?
2) THROTTLE BODY/MANIFOLD...clean and adjust the oem throttle body or install a new hi flow throttle body with ported intake manifold?
2) EXHAUST..cat back exhaust? ...or headers, hiflow cat and full 2/2.25 piping to rear?? any problems with O2 sensors with a larger exhaust ?
are these mods worth it? any real gains for that investment? or is the motor best kept stock?
i am not opening up the bottom end as the compression and drivetrain are clean and well within spec.
thanks for all the feedback and help
here is what i am hoping to get feedback on ...
1) INJECTORS...what are the best quality performance injectors to replace oem stock with? or just rebuild the OEM injectors?
2) THROTTLE BODY/MANIFOLD...clean and adjust the oem throttle body or install a new hi flow throttle body with ported intake manifold?
2) EXHAUST..cat back exhaust? ...or headers, hiflow cat and full 2/2.25 piping to rear?? any problems with O2 sensors with a larger exhaust ?
are these mods worth it? any real gains for that investment? or is the motor best kept stock?
i am not opening up the bottom end as the compression and drivetrain are clean and well within spec.
thanks for all the feedback and help
Last edited by garagespace; 07-09-2015 at 11:53 AM.
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I know of what you speak. Your problems are just to stay stock so you can get parts. I would take a trip like that but leave extra time for "perhaps".
Put on the V6 front brake calipers, cheap upgrade if you have the smaller front brakes. I would also do the clutch (12 hr job) if you might need it along way; as a pre-emptive strike. Change all the lubricants, rear diff, trans, engine. Fram XG or NAPA gold engine oil filter. I like Mobil one oil, with some STP for the zinc. Bring a couple of extra oil filters you will need to change the a couple of times along the way.
Inspect the Camshaft, If its got the lobe tops burned off due the junk EPA oils, now it the time to do the head job. Cam & rockers go to Delta Cams in WA, witchhunter for the injectors, engbldr for gaskets. Motor oil I would use is Motul 300v; old school back in the day oil.
Check your u-joints for wear, I would do then both just on GP's going to Alaska I would probably replace a bunch of simple wear items just so they are less likely to fail me along the way.
Put on the V6 front brake calipers, cheap upgrade if you have the smaller front brakes. I would also do the clutch (12 hr job) if you might need it along way; as a pre-emptive strike. Change all the lubricants, rear diff, trans, engine. Fram XG or NAPA gold engine oil filter. I like Mobil one oil, with some STP for the zinc. Bring a couple of extra oil filters you will need to change the a couple of times along the way.
Inspect the Camshaft, If its got the lobe tops burned off due the junk EPA oils, now it the time to do the head job. Cam & rockers go to Delta Cams in WA, witchhunter for the injectors, engbldr for gaskets. Motor oil I would use is Motul 300v; old school back in the day oil.
Check your u-joints for wear, I would do then both just on GP's going to Alaska I would probably replace a bunch of simple wear items just so they are less likely to fail me along the way.
Last edited by skypilot; 04-20-2015 at 12:30 PM.
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
For what your planning to do I would go with all easy to get stock parts .
You can spend lots of money for very little real gain if you want.
Except for the exhaust
If it is in the budget go with 2.25" pipe from the manifold to the back Stainless if possible.
The larger diameter pipe will not effect the O2 sensor as long as it is installed close to the same location.
I think we all misunderstood what you really had.
After all the bottom line it is your vehicle
Good luck
You can spend lots of money for very little real gain if you want.
Except for the exhaust
If it is in the budget go with 2.25" pipe from the manifold to the back Stainless if possible.
The larger diameter pipe will not effect the O2 sensor as long as it is installed close to the same location.
I think we all misunderstood what you really had.
After all the bottom line it is your vehicle
Good luck
#11
I know of what you speak. Your problems are just to stay stock so you can get parts. I would take a trip like that but leave extra time for "perhaps".
Put on the V6 front brake calipers, cheap upgrade if you have the smaller front brakes. I would also do the clutch (12 hr job) if you might need it along way; as a pre-emptive strike. Change all the lubricants, rear diff, trans, engine. Fram XG or NAPA gold engine oil filter. I like Mobil one oil, with some STP for the zinc. Bring a couple of extra oil filters you will need to change the a couple of times along the way.
Inspect the Camshaft, If its got the lobe tops burned off due the junk EPA oils, now it the time to do the head job. Cam & rockers go to Delta Cams in WA, witchhunter for the injectors, engbldr for gaskets. Motor oil I would use is Motul 300v; old school back in the day oil.
Check your u-joints for wear, I would do then both just on GP's going to Alaska I would probably replace a bunch of simple wear items just so they are less likely to fail me along the way.
Put on the V6 front brake calipers, cheap upgrade if you have the smaller front brakes. I would also do the clutch (12 hr job) if you might need it along way; as a pre-emptive strike. Change all the lubricants, rear diff, trans, engine. Fram XG or NAPA gold engine oil filter. I like Mobil one oil, with some STP for the zinc. Bring a couple of extra oil filters you will need to change the a couple of times along the way.
Inspect the Camshaft, If its got the lobe tops burned off due the junk EPA oils, now it the time to do the head job. Cam & rockers go to Delta Cams in WA, witchhunter for the injectors, engbldr for gaskets. Motor oil I would use is Motul 300v; old school back in the day oil.
Check your u-joints for wear, I would do then both just on GP's going to Alaska I would probably replace a bunch of simple wear items just so they are less likely to fail me along the way.
brakes = i assume its the diameter of the rotor is larger on the v6? or is it a full change of the rotor caliper and master cylinder?
#12
For what your planning to do I would go with all easy to get stock parts .
You can spend lots of money for very little real gain if you want.
Except for the exhaust
If it is in the budget go with 2.25" pipe from the manifold to the back Stainless if possible.
The larger diameter pipe will not effect the O2 sensor as long as it is installed close to the same location.
I think we all misunderstood what you really had.
After all the bottom line it is your vehicle
Good luck
You can spend lots of money for very little real gain if you want.
Except for the exhaust
If it is in the budget go with 2.25" pipe from the manifold to the back Stainless if possible.
The larger diameter pipe will not effect the O2 sensor as long as it is installed close to the same location.
I think we all misunderstood what you really had.
After all the bottom line it is your vehicle
Good luck
. yeah sometimes i am not sure what have either. haha
OEM parts seems unanimously to be the quality route.
And from reading the countless forums the past few days.. ..it seems without working the block there is no real HP gains to be had. changing out the TB, manifold, and exhaust is just blowing money for minor gains.
conclusion so far:
the best solution seems to be sending out the stock injectors for a re-fesh @22re performance?, full tune up with OEM parts, flush everything, change hoses and vac lines, set timing and valves, and inspect clutch. and maybe a fan clutch and alternator replacement.
what upgrades are there for the drivetrain/brakes?
what year front rotors fit? just the rotors or caliper and mc as well?
-----------------------------------
#15
Registered User
a cam upgrade, a header upgrade, send your injectors to witchhunter and have them back in about a weekfor all of that your looking at about 700- 800$. The cltch isn't a bad idea but if it ain't slippinng any I wouldn't worry about itbut in case you have to on the road then take your tools with ya, always better safe than sorry I say, lol. And get your radiator flushed and filled also, this will help you in the long run.
#17
update....
...so i passed by 22RE Performance in Chico, Ca and Jerry helped me sort out what parts i needed for a complete tune up... and then i ordered a LCE 2.25 header hi flo cat and magnaflow can.. got to say Jerry is a stand up guy who truly knows his stuff and doesnt try to sell you on crap you wont need.
http://22reperformance.com/22RE_Perf...ine_Parts.html
i sonic cleaned the throttle body and manifold and put in a new TPS sensor. then all the other parts sensors egr valve etc and adjusted the valves and timing.
Now with al the tune up parts and with the new header it has much better torque, runs super smooth and gas mileage is around 17 mpg.
What an improvement, but still needs more for high mountain passes and when fully loaded up with my xr350 on back and water/food/fuel its a bit of a crawl. its runs smooth and is fine to go to alaska and back. maybe not a bullet but what did i expect from 112 hp 4cyl 22re.
next season it will get a motor swap for the 5zve and oem supercharger.
here is a pic
...so i passed by 22RE Performance in Chico, Ca and Jerry helped me sort out what parts i needed for a complete tune up... and then i ordered a LCE 2.25 header hi flo cat and magnaflow can.. got to say Jerry is a stand up guy who truly knows his stuff and doesnt try to sell you on crap you wont need.
http://22reperformance.com/22RE_Perf...ine_Parts.html
i sonic cleaned the throttle body and manifold and put in a new TPS sensor. then all the other parts sensors egr valve etc and adjusted the valves and timing.
Now with al the tune up parts and with the new header it has much better torque, runs super smooth and gas mileage is around 17 mpg.
What an improvement, but still needs more for high mountain passes and when fully loaded up with my xr350 on back and water/food/fuel its a bit of a crawl. its runs smooth and is fine to go to alaska and back. maybe not a bullet but what did i expect from 112 hp 4cyl 22re.
next season it will get a motor swap for the 5zve and oem supercharger.
here is a pic
Last edited by dropzone; 07-09-2015 at 11:07 AM. Reason: Censor picked up on language
#18
it looks distinctly like the two or 3 sunraders in my area.
when they did the conversion on my friends 85 extended cab they kept the small window behind the door
Hope you are getting closer to your goal
Last edited by dropzone; 07-09-2015 at 11:09 AM.
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