JaCkaL829

Hey everyone,

First post, heard lost of good things about this forum so I decided to join it. I've been doing lots of searching, and I'm having difficulty diagnosing my truck.

Anyway, I recently purchased a 1992 Toyota Pickup Truck with the 22RE engine in it. The body is perfect, no rust on the frame or body, and I though it was a good deal for what I got it for. So as I was buying it the previous owner was telling me sometimes it doesn't start right away. He explained if it doesn't catch on the first try of cranking, try again on the second, if it doesn't catch on the second, than on the third try just feather the gas and it'll start. On the third try it seems like it's starving for gas. Thinking it should be an easy fix I still decide to buy it.

So after a few times of it starting right away, and of his way, I decide to replace the engine temperature sensor. I change that out, and it gets really cold out. After that it won't start at all, it seems like it's cutting out and not even getting spark. I could hear clicking from the kick panel in the cab, as if it was an electrical issue. I bring it to a mechanic who ends up replacing the ignitor, and a relay near the ECM and rewires a lot of it due to corrosion in the junction box. He actually worked on it twice since after the first time he did the work the truck did the same exact thing to me (not starting) a day later so he rewired it again for me.

So yesterday it's a bit warmer out (50s-60s) unusually warm for this time of year. So I decide to take this truck out all day to run a tank of fresh gas with techron plus in it. I run to a few stores. Each time I turn off the truck, and turn it back on to leave the store it becomes more and more difficult to start. It also started on the 3rd try, but needed more and more gas to get it going. Once it started the CEL was on for a sec but than turned off. So now I'm completely confused. This was happening all day, and the engine was definitely warmed up well. At this point i'm thinking it a fuel issue.

So while my truck was at the shop I decided to order a new time switch and cold start injector from rock auto. This morning I replace the cold start injector with a new one. The old one looked pretty dirty and worn, but I never tested it. After I put the new one on and try to start it won't start at all. I'm getting the same kind of issue seems like no spark, unlike yesterday where it needed gas. So somehow after multiple times of starting it finally just turned on. I ran it a little like that, and now I've been periodically starting it throughout the day and it's starting on the second try, no gas at all.

I'm really at a lose of words for this truck. I bought it as a secondary vehicle for light loads, and for 4x4 for the winter, and I seriously don't want to drive it because I fear it will leave me stranded.

The truck works good when it's on. I've had on it for at least 45mins to an hour while driving and no issues.

Any advice or tips would be appreciated. I'm OK with working on cars, and understand the basics. I also know that an EFI vehicle should NOT require someone pressing the gas while starting it, but apparently mine sometimes does. I really want the truck to work and be dependable but it keeps making me question my purchase, and throw it up for sale online.

I have yet to give it a tuneup but the previous owner took decent care of it. Most of the ignition wires and plugs are newer. Was going to change the oil but I'm in no rush to do that if it's not starting right.

When I purchased this truck I felt confident that it was good, and from all the flowing reviews of the 22RE engine I though it would last. My brother has 2 Tacomas with the 2.7 4 cylinder, both with more miles and has never had an electrical or starting problem like this

snobdds

Well start with the basics instead of throwing parts at it. This engine needs fuel, air, spark and compression to run.

Fuel: Is fuel getting to the fuel rail? Is fuel getting to the cold start injector? You can take off the injector and put it in a mason jar to see if it is working, or ohm it out. You can jump B+ and FP in the diagnosis box to manually force the fuel pump to run to check things. Also not critical to run, but check your fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. Then make sure your ground for your fuel injector is good and not shorting anywhere. This will prevent your fuel injectors from firing.

Air: Check your VAFM to make sure the little vane inside is not stuck and operational (it's that thing on top of the air filter box). The VAFM is what turns your fuel pump on so it needs to be working. Make sure there are no air leaks between the VAFM and the throttle body. Make sure your throttle body vane is not stuck open or full of junk preventing it from closing.

Spark: Are you getting spark at the end of the wires. Just get one of those test things and plug it into the end of the wire and have someone crank it over. It will be easy to tell if your getting spark. How are the wires and the spark plugs?

Compression: Not a bad idea to hook a compression tester while your checking your spark plugs. Also, do this when the truck is cold, so the threads on the spark plug holes don't strip in the soft aluminum.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I feel you are throwing money in the wrong area. I would throw the money at a good tuneup, fuel filter I use a good parts store brand. Thermostat, Denso Plugs, Denso Cap and Rotor (Dealer not much more then you would pay at a parts store), Denso Wires http://www.ebay.com/itm/250854901322...84.m1438.l2649 . I seen you mentioned the wires and plugs, but part stores brand is not the best for these.

Clean and test your remaining sensors. Check to see if your vacuum lines are not cracked and routed correctly. Most likely all of the ports in your Plenum is clogged with carbon. Get them cleaned out as well.

Make sure you have no further air leaks around Plenum, Intake, Air Intake Sytem. I have fixed alot of issues just by starting with the basics on these. It doesnt sound like it was an abused truck but being neglected is something completely different if they dont know what to look for on these trucks.

I would also burp the system. Raise the front end as high as you can and let the Thermostat cycle a few times with the radiator cap off to get any trapped air out of the system.

If I understood you right, you werent getting any Check Engine Lights. I would still jump TE1 and E1 to see if there are any codes.

Anytime I buy a used 22re truck, this is what I do before getting into troubleshooting. If all is well I then replace the O2 sensor. Then go for the finer tuning. TPS,air gap,idle speed...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to Yotatech!!

Just because plug wires look new does not mean they are.

I also say good major tune up !!Then you know what you have.

It is possible this fuel filter was never changed .

I have seen this ethanol take out fuel filters way before the should.

**Be nice to know just where you are???

I have 2 3.4`s driving me nuts with codes !!

Although I think thats done.

Never had issues with the 22REC.

I would love to know just where this junction box is??

Sounds like you need a better Mechanic.

Poor ground issue perhaps ??

Any charging issues ??

JaCkaL829

Merry Christmas all

Thank you for the replies, and the feedback. I have yet to go into the tuneup section, although I do agree it's a good place to start. I think I will just do OEM everything for the ignition. I already purchased the NGK V-Power spark plugs that the owner's manual specify. Should I return these and get the DENSO plugs that are in the book? I can do the wires, and the cap and rotor. Should the fuel filter be OEM or can I get away with a WIX? I'm also nervous to do the fuel filter as I understand they are in an extremely difficult spot. I may have a mechanic replace that.

As for my original mechanic, he's kind of a BSer but I feel OK going to him. I also went to him because he does free towing, and I already needed that twice, but I'm not afraid to try other places.

For what it's worth the trucks been starting OK now. I haven't been driving it, just starting it in my yard. After my first hiccup since replacing the cold start injector where it wouldn't start, it now has been starting relatively easy.

I understand the manual instructs you to disconnect the battery for safety purposes. I never do that, but I'm wondering if that has to do with the problem I encountered yesterday. I never disconnected the battery when I changed the sensor, wondering if that has anything to do with anything.

I'm from North Jersey, not to far from NYC just outside the Lincoln Tunnel and near Metlife Stadium. If anyone on here has enough experience and skills I'd gladly pay to have it worked on and tuned correctly. I'll even help out as I'd like to learn the engine. Or if anyone knows of a reputable mechanic that has good experience working on these 22RE engines in my area (I'm willing to travel as long as it's within reason) I'd be willing to work something out.

As I said before the truck looks really good, I just want it to run right.

BTW I was looking at the oil drain plug, looks like the oil pours right into a shaft! As much as I love Toyotas and Hondas sometimes I can't stand their designs, especially for maintenance items.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

On a good day I can make it to the GW in about 3 hours on a bad day I just turn around and go home.

If you ever feel like taking a ride I am pretty much around every weekend.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have always used Denso plugs but NGK is another plug commonly used and seems to do well. Bosch, Champion are great plugs but not for these Toyotas in my opinion.

As far as the Fuel Filter, it can be tricky to get to. I do have a thin wrench that I use to get to the rear banjo bolt on the filter. Each truck I have had of do have is a different way of accessing the filter. One I actually put my back against the tire and and get a few of the bolt with my arm behind me and without seeing the bolt or nuts. you just have to find the trick that works for you.

I use Wix filters. Seem to do good for me. The arrow on the filter should be pointing to the firewall. That shows the flow of fuel. The fuel flows from the tank to the front of the filter for the first banjo bolt. Then thru the filter and out the back of the filter to the fuel rail. Use new brass crush washers and make sure you have no leaks when finished.

I normally dont disconnect the battery for several fixes. On the fuel filter DO disconnect the battery. When you disconnect your fuel lines, you will lose a few ounces of gas and right below your fuel filter is the starter with power going to it. I have changed around 50 filters and one time I did, the fuel got to the starter wire and I heard it sizzle. Probably would not have taken much to start a fire. DO disconnect the battery when changing fuel filters.

Just in case I did not mention it, disconnect the battery when changing fuel filter.

JaCkaL829

Just an update...

I ordered new wires, plugs, distributor, cap and fuel filter. I have yet to install the items, or give it a tuneup. Not sure when I'll have time either, not to mention it's so cold out now

I have been driving the vehicle more and more. What I've now noticed is when it's cold, the truck starts pretty easily and consistently. This has all started after I replaced my cold start injector, so I'd like to think it wasn't money wasted.

My issue now is when the truck is warm, turned off, than started again it has difficulty and won't start till the 3rd time I try, and again I have to feather the gas. Sometimes it will start on the second try if the truck is really cold, and wasn't driven long.

Any possible ideas? I know I still have to do the tuneup, but I'm thinking it might be something else. The truck runs and drives fine once it's on. No issues at all, and surprisingly not too bad on the highway. I calculated the MPG on a pretty much all highway trip to get my bedliner installed it was about 18 mpg which I though wasn't too bad considering I have yet to tune it up.

Keep the feedback coming, and happy new year to all!