andrewtexas123

Hey hows it going guys I just bought a 1988 Pickup with a 22re in it. I bought it for cheap. It does not run its getting fuel and spark with low compression sounds weak when you turn it over. There was hardly any coolant in the radiator and P/O said it was over heated. So what am I looking for when I pull the motor apart.. Warped head, pistons, bent valves? What would you suspect i guess is what im saying.

Ive gotten most of the motor apart but stopped cause im at my parents house for the weekend. From where im at whats the best way to get the rest of the head off? Timing chain and tensioners look good so im gonna leave it for now. do I just pull the distributor drive nut off and then head bolts or what? Do I need to be at TDC for cy1? how do i line that up


Thanks guys from what ive read this is a very helpful forum. Im very excited about my new purchase (as soon as i get it running its getting a paint job)

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Pull the motor completely out. The take the head and block in for testing. Don't get the head milled. If it's warped just buy a new one from engnbldr. About the same price as a test deck and flush. Might not even test your current one if it over heated. Take the block and timing chain cover in at the same time and get them decked of needed. Not more than 10 thousandths at the most. Should only need like 4-5 thousandths. We hope. Then get your crank inspected. Maybe have the cylinders bored. Order a rebuild kit from engnbldr. And start wrenching. Also get new head bolts every time you do a head gasket. Just cheap piece of mind

JKelly0117

I agree with the fish guy parts are cheap and you'll regret doing half the job to find out you should have done it right the first time.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You can do the head with it in the engine bay but your back will thank you if you pull the motor. I have the Factory Service Manual and a Haynes Manual. I have compared both of them for a top end rebuild and they are the same. FSM is a little better for a complete overhaul but not by much in my opinion. The quick and easiest is to get a Haynes for about $20 and I suggest staying away from Chilton Manual.

While you still can, I would get a tool setup and use the starter to break the crankshaft bolt loose. If you are going to at least do the head, do the Timing Chain as well and you need the crankshaft pulley off for that. If you pull the motor then you can get an impact wrench to break the crankshaft bolt loose. It is tight!!!

A top rebuild isn't as quick as you may think. Being a two wheel I just pull the tranny with the motor. Easier to connect the tranny, just how I do it.

andrewtexas123

Thanks for the responses!! So basiclly even if I find a warped head and replace it there is more then likely going to be more damage in the bottom end?

I completely agree I have it torn down this far why not run through the rest of the motor. But I don't want to do more work then necessary you know.

One more question i have read alot about getting the crankshaft bolt off with the starter but how about reinstalling it how do you effectively torque it back down?

Thanks, Andrew

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I farmed out all the individual pieces out all over the country. still using the same head, cut .010 .

andrewtexas123

Care to explain? I'm fairly no to this but learning!

scope103

I'm just going to disagree with that. If you have all the tools and a place to work, sure. But if you have to rent an engine hoist (twice) and buy an engine stand, it all starts to add up.

"Blueprinting" an engine is really nice, but you're putting it back into a 27-year old vehicle, the attraction for which was that it was 'cheap.' I think the trick is to figure out just how much money to put in it so you're not wasting it.

This is an often-cited piece of advice, but I think it's a waste of time. Why? Because you still have to put the crankshaft bolt back in. The torque spec (for the 22re) is 116 ft-lb! You still need some way to keep the crank from turning, and the starter won't help you. (Neither will an impact wrench; if it can reach 116, how do you know it's not going to 150? Or beyond ...?) So bite the bullet and build yourself one of the many excellent crank-shaft holding tools described on this site. (I, of course, like this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/)

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

This site is all about learning to take care of our rigs. Not sure where you got "blueprinting" an engine from. Don't recall reading that. Buying a "rebuilt" motor can be a roll of the dice as far as quality. Some of the cheaper ones are just that cheap. You could easily spend $2000 on a complete rebuild with install. With pricing all new parts and reusing the timing cover and block my rebuild is going to cost me around $1000. Thats an extra $1000 in my pocket for other upgrades. The OP has the motor fairly far torn down. If you pull the motor and put it on a stand its not really any harder than what the OP has done. I agree that renting a cherry picker twice is not cost effective. But you can buy one used usually with a engine stand in tow for under $200. Use it and then sell it for about the same. We can all agree to disagree if need be.

bswarm

A trick to torquing the crank bolt without the engine turning: Pull the starter out and have someone with a long screwdriver or prybar placed between one of the flywheel teeth and the bellhousing, in a way that won't bend anything. And don't torque it down with an impact, just because they might only have 125 ft lbs of torque doesn't mean it won't snap a camshaft that has a 300 ft lb torque spec.

scope103

If you want to try that way, you don't need to remove the starter (no picnic on these trucks!) You can just remove the "converter cover" http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...39removala.pdf and you have access to about 15 teeth on the bottom of the flywheel. I've done it that way, but I don't like it. You really need a second person, unless you go to the trouble to fabricate a piece that bolts into place. And if something goes wrong, you'll mangle a tooth on the flywheel and you could have starter engagement issues down the road.

Every method involves some risk, so consider them all, keep the risks in mind, and be careful.

bswarm

It's not going to mangle the teeth, they're pretty tough.

andrewtexas123

Thanks for all the great Ideas on removing ths crank shaft bolt!

My next questions would be..

1. how can I tell or is there any tests to do to see if the block in fact needs to be rebuilt?

2. When I remove my head does the chain need to be at TDC? and does it slip over the chain sprocket?

3. does the haynes repair manual have info on tearing the motor apart?


I just want to get my truck running. Thanks again

-Andrew

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have done several top end rebuilds and had great luck with them. You will need to do a good compression test. Several different checks you can do to find out where it is losing compression. A Manual will tell you what all is needed to do to rebuild a motor. It will need to go a machine shop. If you just do the head and/or the block. Personally if I can afford to buy a rebuilt motor, I find it cheaper in the long run but rebuilding one slowly, I can do a piece at a time. Get the block to the shop, order parts so fourth. Not so much out at one time.

I use the starter trick as I have never had a bolt not to come out. The first 22re I rebuilt, I had a breaker bar, with about 5 foot of cheater bar on it. Transmission in first gear, tire blocked, and a chain vise on the flywheel and still could not get it. I have had two other motors where an impact and 3/8th inch air hose would not break it loose. It took a 1/2 inch air hose to break them loose. I use a torque wrench to reinstall them but I think when the bolt is in the crankshaft, that sometimes it just seizes in the crank. They can be a real bear to get out.

I like to set mine at TDC when doing a head gasket but it is not important until you reassemble it and then you will need it at TDC. Here is a thread that can give you an idea of what you need to do. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/

I have done several 22re motors and still use a manual, you will need one. The torque specs in manuals for the head bolt is changed from what it says in the manual. Seems to me the manual says 62 foot pounds and it is actually 68 foot pounds. I could be wrong on the numbers and have it wrote in my manual which is not with me at this time. Someone will post it for you when needed.

If just doing the head I allow 3 days just to get it done. Pulling the head and taking it to the shop, cleaning will take that long. If rebuilding a motor, I allow a month. Not hard to do but machine work, ordering parts and assembling takes a while. If block and parts are all done, I can assemble a motor in a day but I think a month is a good guesstimate on the amount of time you are going to need. None of it happens over nite. Just my experience.

scope103

The Haynes (IMO) is not bad, but why bother when you can get the real thing for free? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

RJR

Just an observation. If you use the "transmission in gear" approach, you want the tranny in 5th, not 1st. You want the engine to have the least amount of mechanical advantage to the wheels as possible, so the wheels don't turn. Applying 150 ft-lbs of torque to the crankshaft in first gear translates to about 2500 ft-lbs at the wheels, which is going to be hard to hold even with full brakes. Shifting to 5th cuts that to about 500 ft-lbs; much easier to keep the vehicle from moving.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget, head bolts get tightened to 65ft pounds not the 58 ft lbs listed in book. Helps to prevent head gasket failure.

scope103

Really? Sez who?

andrewtexas123

Thanks for all the great information guys!!!

So I took the timing chain off, the power steering pump/bracket, 8 head bolts and the little bold on the front of the head. And the head is stuck on there

Are there any bolts or brackets on the back of the head that I am missing. I wedged a flat head in between the gasket in the front and got a little wiggle but i dot want to damage the block.

Any suggestions???

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I think you missed 3 bolts. rocker arms should come off as an assembly. Little but long bolt under cam gear into front cover.

Rap with a dead blow hammer, maybe just be obstinate.