byron4

1989 toyota 4runner, 22re

after a rebuild I unintentionally had a power wire (alternator) touching the body and had a spark show when we hooked up the battery. now i am unable to start . all the lights come on when i insert the key but nothing happens in the turnover department. Things i have tried...

replaced computer
replaced EFI relay
visibly checked fuses

bypassed the starter relay (jumpered the positive battery to starter solenoid)

checked and re-checked our grounds. and added an engine to body ground.

attempted to bypass the clutch safety switch by using the clutch start cancel button.

we have spark while cranking and the fuel pump is pumping to the fuel filter. i can hear the fuel pump while cranking but not while the key is in the "ON" position. I pulled the plugs and they are dry. for what its worth we also deleted much of the EGR equipment.


is it possible that the starter relay is tied into the EFI system? i would prefer to not experiment buying a $150 relay just to find the original relay is good.

what all is related to the key cranking the motor over and the injectors not willing to squirt gas into the cylinders? are there fusible links within the wiring harness that could have been fried.

any help is greatly appreciated, i just want to drive it. thank you

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It might be that your no fuel is unrelated to your sparkies !!

Did you have the injectors cleaned and tested or maybe you went with new injectors ??

So you figured the ECU was fried and you tested the replacement .

I am thinking bad Circuit opening relay or the injectors are not firing.

byron4

i did not have the injectors cleaned and tested. but they seemed to work fine before the rebuild so i left them alone.

I did not test the replacement ECU? i bought it from a junkyard. is there a method behind this?

i am confident the injectors are not firing. i just dont know what other possibilities i can check for the reason behind it. whatever it is it's also connected to the ignition switch not allowing me to use the key to turn the motor over.

is there a test for the circuit opening relay? i am not sure where it is located but i will start searching. thanks for the reply.

scope103

The circuit opening relay is not part of the injector circuit. All it does is power the fuel pump, and if you're certain you're getting fuel the COR is not your problem.

Do you have any codes? For instance, the lack of IGF (which should throw code 14) will shut off the injectors.

If I follow your report correctly, the starter works (by putting 12v to the solenoid), but you're NOT getting 12v there with the key. Is the starter relay closing? (this does NOT power the injectors, but if you have a bad key-switch, anything can happen) Is the EFI relay closing? (this one DOES power the ECM).

byron4

i am certain i am getting fuel to the fuel filter ( i had a leak at the banjo bolts the first time i tried to crank). i think the next stop is the fuel rail? so that should be good.
I have not checked for codes, i will try to borrow a code reader if i can find one but i do not have a check engine light on. the starter relay is clicking like it is closing but I have not replaced it yet. The EFI relay was also clicking like it was closing but I replaced it with a brand new one to check that off the list.

thank you for your response

scope103

Byron4 - 381 posts, and you're talking about a code-reader? Codes are read by jumpering TE1 to E1 with a "Special Service Tool" (a paper-clip, usually) and reading the flashes of the CEL. This gets explained in about every 10th posting. Consider doing a little browsing.

Replacing a relay that is probably working doesn't really let you check it off your list. After all, your NEW relay is still not powering the starter, so why is that? This post might give you some ideas (though mine is a '94, and the starter relay is in a different location in, oh, different years): https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...switch-287859/ Your new starter relay is probably good (your old one probably was too), so track down the wiring to see what's actually not working.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Your Fusible Link is from the positive side of the battery cable to the fuse box.

Some other information if you want to look further into the fusible link.... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51747852

byron4

thank you,

i checked the fusible link. although it doesnt appear to be factory toyota, it doesn't appear to be damaged. i also have power to accessories when i turn the key which according to the link provided, would rule out the fusible link.

still troublshooting....and trying to get my post count up.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

After reading your thread again, seems like I had a similar situation where some things worked but not others. How is the 80 amp fuse that connects to the fusible link.

All of the other fuses lift up and out. The 80 Amp you have to pry this tab to the firewall and push out the bottom.


Here it is mounted to the Fuse. It mounts behind the wires. I usually have to take a 8mm socket to the screws the first time. They can be TIGHT.

byron4

The 80 amp fuse was checked.


i believe i have narrowed the issue down but still haven't found a solution to the problem. we have no power between my ECU terminals STA and E1. there is no power to STA at the starter. there is also no power in the +B terminal at the diagnostic switch. unfortunately this is where the trail went cold....

we jumped the T and E1 diagnostic and could not get it to throw any codes.


i have checked the clutch start cancel and found no issues and 12v to the clutch start cancel switch. testing at the ignition terminals where the wires are soldered we had 12v coming into the switch at AM1 and AM2 and have 12v coming out at ST1 and ST2. we also had 12v at accessory with the exception of the starting position. the MAF was also checked and appears to be functioning.

the EFI relay is getting the proper voltage, the circuit opening relay resistance all checked out as per the manual.

At this point we have followed all of the troubleshooting tips in the FSM, followed the electrical diagrams and only found the issues mentioned above with no understanding of the root of the issue. bumping this up in hopes for more options. thanks

Flash319

So just to recap where you are...you can crank but no start/fuel? Or no cranking?

I have had problems likes this when the starter would not ground to the trans. Clip a booster cable to the starter (body of the starter somewhere) and run it to the battery ground to test.

byron4

no crank. all the lights come on as normal but when i turn the ignition to start the stereo, clock, ect. go dim but no crank. i will try a jumper on the starter, thank you.