iliketoyota

my 1987 4runner with the 22re and 5 speed needs a slight push on the gas pedal to start cold. Just wondering if this is normal or something is wrong with the cold start injector. Runs great after its started though even while its cold. I did search before i posted and found nothing.

westjohns yota

mine sometimes does also, have many miles on your engine? run some fuel injec. cleaner through the gs tank like i do, mines gotten better about it but still needs a little

iliketoyota

188,000 miles Did you just use sea foam or something like k44?

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your auxiliary air control isn't working properly. Does it have a high idle when cold? For fuel injector cleaner, I'd recommend Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant. Excellent stuff.

iliketoyota

no it doesnt idle high anytime. What it does is when its cold you crank the starter and touch the gas pedal a little and it will fire up and stumble and act like it will die for about 5 seconds then idle at about 1k. When its warm it will fire right away with no pushing on the gas pedal and idle good at around 800rpms which is normal.

abecedarian

You solved your problem without even knowing it.

"When cold, it won't start unless you touch the gas pedal."
- when you do that, the ECU injects a squirt of fuel like an accelerator pump on a carburetor. That's enough to get it started.

"Then it stumbles and idles at 1K."
- the IAV is stuck

"When its warm it will fire right away with no pushing on the gas pedal and idle good at around 800rpms which is normal. "
- the IAV is stuck

iliketoyota

is it fixable or will it just need to be replaced?

iliketoyota

Another thing I thought it could be is the fuel filter, do clogged filters cause things like this? Also I have the separate valve they call the auxiliary air valve below the TB. Not the one attached like the newer 22res

abecedarian

Well, the newer ones- say 89 and up, have the "auxillary air valve", and the earlier ones have the "idle air valve"... or maybe I have it backwards.
Anyhow, the difference 'tween the two is the early ones have an electric heater and are separate from the throttle body and the later ones don't have the electric heater and are integral to the throttle body. Beyond that, they are functionally the same.
Both suffer from corrosion and clogging issues caused by the valve being a "low spot" in the cooling system. Both can be cleaned. Both require specialized flow testing equipment to reassemble properly.

As to the fuel filter being an issue... think for a moment: a clogged filter will restrict fuel flow when the fuel demand is high. Cold starting doesn't need as much fuel as running an engine at 3000 rpms.

On the other hand, it may be Cold Start Valve or Cold Start Injector Time Switch related.

iliketoyota

i found out it really doesnt matter if i press the gas or not, it just takes about 5-10 seconds to start cold. I took the cold start injector out and cleaned it and checked the resistance in both the injector and the timer and both were good. when i took the the line off the injector fuel shot out for a second so i think it has good fuel pressure.

Could i clean the aav?

iliketoyota

well i replaced the AAV and same problem, didnt help at all. I also set the TPS, and checked the resistance of the cold start injector and time out switch. Both checked out good and a soaked the injector in carb cleaner with no improvement.

If it helps, the engine never idles high and comes down on startup like its supposed to, it always goes to like 500 and slowly climbs to 750. Any other ideas?

ehenson99

I think i've got a similar problem with my 88 4x4 22RE. When it is cold it takes 4-5 seconds to start, kinda stumbles a bit idle has to work itself up and never idles over 1K RPM cold, I don't have a tach thats just an estimate. When it is hot it starts right away but stumbles a bit and has to work up to the 750RPM idle. Mine idles fairly steady but feels like it has a slight miss at idle and the motor shakes more than what I feel is normal. I just got the truck and have done a valve lash adjustment. This weekend i'm going to check the TPS, timing and unhook the EGR vacuum lines and also do a compression test. If I find anything out this weekend i'll definetly share it.

bjlambert

I had the same problem with mine, when i had the TPS unplugged. Possible your tps is messed?

iliketoyota

i set my tps and it was working good with the multimeter hooked up so i would assume its fine

trackhead

I have an '85 that had a 22RE swapped into it. When my truck has been sitting overnight, I have the same problem. Crank the starter for 5-10 seconds, turn it off. Then second crank it starts immediately but stumbles for 10-15 seconds, then runs fine.

Seems like a common issue.

ksti

It would seem to me pushing on the gas pedal would have no effect, as it seems you would only be introducing air not fuel.

matstaley

The idle air valve is adjustable. Check it out in the fsm. there should be a link to it on the forum somwhere.

iliketoyota

well i just finished putting a new head on after it overheated due to a coolant hose coming off and cracking the head.

In the process i put a new fuel filter on, the old one was so plugged up you could barely blow through it and it looked to be the original one. Anyway now it starts up as good as it should. When its cold it will go to a little over a thousand rpms and come down to 750 after a few minutes and it never hesitates or idles low. Just fires right up and runs good. Idle is smoother and it has more power all around too.

So any of you that have never put a fuel filter on you really should. It might even be the original with 190,000 miles on it like mine was lol.

yprior

I have a similar problem. I will try the fuel filter. Thanks!