22re multiple coolant leaks
#1
22re multiple coolant leaks
What's up Yotatech. This is my first time posting a question. New to yotatech and my 4Runner. Thanks to you guys, I have done some repairs to my 87 runner 22re. This is my problem. There is a coolant pipe under the intake manifold that is leaking. I identified the problem, thanks to you guys and replaced the o-ring. It seem to have stopped the leak. Today I noticed its leaking again. Was I suppose to put sealant or something on the bolt threads? My other leak is on the bolt under the water pump on the passenger side of the timing cover. According to the picture on 4crawler it is a 1 3/4 bolt. It holds the AC compressor bracket. I noticed that the bolt sticks out quite a bit, possibly because I removed the bracket. I don't want to over tighten and crack the cover. I used a torque wrench and tightened as per FSM. They both leak when motor is running. I'm second guessing myself on the bolts on the timing cover due to other shady repairs by previous owner. The length on the compressor bracket bolts, which connect at timing cover are longer than what is specified on the 4crawlers timing cover picture. Has anybody remove their AC bracket and have coolant leaks from bolts that hold the bracket? Did the Bolts stick out of the timing cover? Should I put sealant on bolt threads? Thanks again guys. My apologies if this is a stupid question or already covered and Sorry for the spelling errors and stuff. Writing is not one of my strong points. Any help or links would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Registered User
It should be obvious that if a bolt bottoms out in its hole before it pulls tight against whatever it is to hold fast, the bolt is too long, or the hole has foreign material fouling it..
I would chase the threads in the offending holes with a tap and blow them out with compressed air.
Then depth the holes with a matchstick or something similar.
Select a bolt that is at least 1/8 inch shorter than the hole is deep.
If you have bolts that are too long, you can hacksaw or grind them shorter.
Some hacks might just stack a long bolt with multiple washers until it will pull tight... to each his own.
I would chase the threads in the offending holes with a tap and blow them out with compressed air.
Then depth the holes with a matchstick or something similar.
Select a bolt that is at least 1/8 inch shorter than the hole is deep.
If you have bolts that are too long, you can hacksaw or grind them shorter.
Some hacks might just stack a long bolt with multiple washers until it will pull tight... to each his own.
Last edited by millball; 09-18-2015 at 06:25 PM.
#4
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You need a bolt that is shorter by at least the thickness of the bracket.
Yes I am guilty of being a hack!!!
I have used the washer trick a few times over the years to get me out of a jam miles from home.
But never Scotch Lok Connectors or wire nuts on automotive wiring or Compression fittings on Brake lines!!
Yes I am guilty of being a hack!!!
I have used the washer trick a few times over the years to get me out of a jam miles from home.
But never Scotch Lok Connectors or wire nuts on automotive wiring or Compression fittings on Brake lines!!
#5
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A motor with or without the AC bracket uses different length bolts.
The pipe under the Intake that takes the rubber seal, I do put a thin coating on the pipe to intake connection. It is a real pain to get to when it is on the truck, I want to remove as many chances of it leaking as possible.
The pipe under the Intake that takes the rubber seal, I do put a thin coating on the pipe to intake connection. It is a real pain to get to when it is on the truck, I want to remove as many chances of it leaking as possible.
#6
Thanks for the feed back Everybody. I had to work this weekend and have not had the chance to put the advice into action. Hopefully this weekend coming up. Do you guys think I cracked the timing cover if I went in to deep with the A/C bracket bolt? Could that be the only reason I would leak coolant from that bolt?. Terrys87 what is it you put a thin coating of? Is it ultra grey gasket maker? Thanks again.
#7
Update
Whats up Yotatech. I disconnected the coolant pipe under the intake and found that i had previously placed the new O-ring over the old one. i couldn't tell at first since i was not able to see it. The old o-ring had become very hard and felt like it was part of the pipe. I removed and replaced the O-ring and put a little sealant. No leaks so far. Regarding the timing cover leak on the AC bracket bolt. I went ahead and ordered the front end kit from Engnbldr & picked up some shorter bolts for the area that used to have AC bracket. I removed and replaced the timing chain, timing cover, water and oil pump. Installed the new hardware and so far no more leaks. Thanks for the help guys.
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#8
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Glad to hear you got your leaks fixed. Ii is a little late now but I use the grey or the orange sealant. Not really needed but is just extra insurance for the leak at the pipe since it is so hard to get to. Thanks for letting us know you got it fixed. It might help the next guy that has a similar problem.
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