adamsfence

just bought my first toyota the other day its a 94 with a 22re 4wd anyway i bought it cheap figuring it would probly need a motor. because of what was described to me and probly does. but i can't get over how the motor don't smoke runs great, just knocks real loud. before i try to swap motors could this be something simple that wouldn't need me to swap the motor.......it sounds like it is in the back side of motor and on top.

next if i do need a motor where is the best place this is going to be a woods truck for me and my son to play in and i don't won't to spend a fortune...

thanks guys wonderful site here

xxxtreme22r

a video would definitely help, but these 22r's are noisy little buggers to begin with, especially the valve train and if the valve cover has been put on too tight or the grommets/valve cover gaskets are worn out, the rockers will rub on the valve cover.

mountaingoat

How many miles? Does the knocking get worse when it's warmed up, or stay about the same?

adamsfence

scared to run it till it warms up but i drove it about a mile and it stayed the same.....noise is very loud not a normal tick its a knock.......i pulled the valve cover everything looked ok and timing chain was ok....i spun it over with the cover off and noise is still there so hitting the valve cover can't be it.....so what is my next step?

xxxtreme22r

does it seem to get louder at higher revs and/or get louder when you come off the throttle?

adamsfence

higher revs and some time when it revs the noise skips a couple of sounds

adamsfence

i may have misunderstood it gets louder as you rev the engine and lower when idling

91_TOYOTA_4x4

weird... i dont know much but its odd how you say it runs great, no smoke exc... but it knocks? drop a valve tapping the piston? main bearing? thats all i could think of since you say it runs good lol

xxxtreme22r

FYI mine ran really good too drove about 5,000-6,000 miles with a knock in mine before I spun a rod bearing. And I bought the truck like that originally thinking it was the timing chain. Changed that and the knock stayed. Who knows how long it was like that from the Previous owner.

Knock would get louder as revs would increase and also when I would back off the throttle to shift etc etc.

So I wouldn't discount a rod knock, but without a video or something, it's kinda hard to diagnose a sound in a motor.

91_TOYOTA_4x4

exactly it sounds like one of the bottom end bearings (rod or main) i would drop the crank and inspect

adamsfence

can i do this with the motor in by dropping the oil pan or does it need to be pulled.....im no mechanic but this motor would be a good learning experience since i was expecting to replace it anyway

thanks for all yalls help guys i appreciate it

xxxtreme22r

you can check for rod play by dropping the oil pan. is it an auto trans or manual? if auto then you will most likely have to remove the front cross member and drop the front differential to remove the oil pan. On my manual trans I was able to drop the oil pan without removing the crossmember but did have to remove the front differential mounts and lay it on the crossmemeber, but it's still a PITA.

Would still feel better if we had a video to go on.

adamsfence

its a automatic.....i was looking at the pan today and its gonna be hard to get it out as it sits....probly will have to remove the cross member thanks guys i will try to start doing this tomorow

adamsfence

oh and i got a price on a used motor for 1500 installed (don't know the miles but he gives a 90 day warranty)....if i get another motor do yall recomend reman or used all the reman i have found was around 15 or 16 hundred

DROPT

i would just rebuild it for a couple hundred bucks if the block isnt in rough shape.

xxxtreme22r

buy the re-manned and install it yourself I would say. It's not that hard. I have about $1800 in mine that I rebuilt myself, but it has a brand new crank, brand new rods, brand new head, brand new pistons and has been bored 20 over and the block milled, weber, and a 268 EB cam. Sure I could have rebuilt it for $300-500, but I opted to get the new head instead of changing out valve seals, new valves/valve job etc etc, which was $380ish plus the cam $88, weber $300. Which would have been well over $2000 if I bought the remanned and added the stuff onto it.

And yes, the motor in my truck is worth more than the truck itself. haha. But it's a yota with a brand new motor in it.

TinMan

Before you go spending a lot of money, and doing things you dont need to do. Do some more investigation.

Sounds like it might be a cam problem. A worn rocker, or worn cam lobe can be hard to see on inspection. And it might still run ok.

Pull the valve cover and have someone turn the crank over by hand. 19mm socket on the crank bolt. Turn clockwise. watch each cam lobe and it goes around. Does it look nice and smooth, same color all the way around, no scaring. If each cam lobe looks good, then check the rockers for abnormal wear. Are the rocker pads in good shape, not mushroomed out etc. If all is well move on to the next step.

Get a pair of spark plug boot pliers, available at any parts store. Start the truck, and go pull one plug wire at a time. Pull a wire off and listen to the engine. Does the knock go away? If yes, then you have a rod knock. If not you may have a main bearing knock. Put the spark plug wire back on before going on to the next.

Pulling the oil pan and checking for rod play is not going to tell you much unless you have done a ton of these engines and have a calibrated hand/eye.

Now if you are confident enough to pull the oil pan and then pull each rod/main cap to inspect the bearings, then you will be able to find out something. If you do it, pull one at a time off. Check the bearing, then reinstall and torque to spec.

Good luck. If you have not downloaded the FSM you need to.

Later

xxxtreme22r

thanks tinman, I always forget about that spark plug trick with rod knocks. still trying to get this guy to get a video up as I know what the start of a rod knock sounds like since I went through it.

adamsfence

thanks i did pull plug wires today one at a time while running motor spited and sputered but the knock was still there.......so if i get what your saying is when a rod is knocking it should stop if the plug is pulled well if this is true i don't have a rod knocking cause it is loud......im gonna get a video tomorow because this is very loud noise...it is embarasing to drive


where do i get the fsm

TinMan

Most of the time if you pull the plug wires one at a time and the knock does not stop, it means you have problem elsewhere. Could still be in the bottom end though, things like wrist pins, main bearings. From what you have said, and without a video I am guessing your cam is bad.

A few things I would do.

Compression test.
Leak down test.
Good tune up.
Inspect cam and rockers well.

If your compression test is good, and cylinders are holding pressure on leak down test. Your not blowing/burning oil. You might be able to redo the head, timing chain and have an engine that will run for another 100k.