deutschman

I have an '86 truck 4x4 with a 22re 5 speed.
I'v been trying to chase down this idle issue for a while. I have read other people threads and done my own research but I can't get this fixed.
Symptoms:
-car worms up fine, idles at 800-900rpm in the driveway after work up.
-as soon as you put it in gear and drive, the idle jumps to 1,900rpm. No jumpy idle.
-No pulsing idle when brake is down.
-If I rev the motor in neutral, the idle comes down to 1,100rpm.
-If I down shift to a stop light the idle will be 1,100rpm ones stopped. If I don't down shift and just put it in neutral and use my brakes to stop the idle will stay at 1,900rpm.

I wanted to test the AAV so I blocked off the hose to the intake. Same exact issues as with the AAV plugged in an working.
I have replaced all my vacuum hoses with new hoses. Besides the brake MC hose.
I have drained, cleaned, refilled, and burped my coolant system. The car seamed to run a bit better after that, but then went back to having issues.

What are some other things I could check?

Thanks for any help.

deutschman

I just realized the AAV was sucking air in through the hose that goes to the back of it a well, so I blocked that off. Im going to see how that changes things.
Bypassing the AAV should just give me cold start issues right?
Is there anyway to bypass the AAV in a functional way? I almost wish I had a carb with a manual choke right now.

deutschman

My GF's 4Runner 3vze is also having what seams like AAV issues with the high idel with surging with the brake down. Do all older Toyota engines have these needy AAV problems. Such a PITA.

deutschman

I guess Im talking to my self here. Oh well.
I think I have a coolant leak thats sucking in more air and causing the problem. After I burped the coolant the water rushing noise in my dash went away, but now its back.

I know lots of these idle issue threads pop up and most people dont bother doing their own research or figuring things out for them selves. I feel like I tried and have reached the end of my knowledge. To bad no ones ells wants to help out a bit and pitch in.

92ehatch

If you think you have a coolant leak then pressure test the system to try and find it.

deutschman

Ill try that thanks

grumpin

I adjusted my AAV, but if yours is idling correctly when cold I wouldn't think it needs adjusted. Have you checked your coolant sensor for the ECU? The reason I adjusted mine was that the idle after warm up was erratic. Ended up checking sensors and TPU and AFM, then adjusting AAV and idle.

deutschman

Yeah Im still having idle issues.
I just ordered a new ECU coolant sensor. We will see if that does the trick.
I also installed a new radiator and the two main coolant hoses top and bottom.
Im also going to check the small coolant hose from the thermostat to the TB for clogs. Some guy on YouTube cleaned it out and it helped things run more smoothly.
Its really crazy how many things can cause this same problem.
Iv been reading more and more about it and it seams like many many people have the same symptoms but all had a different fix. Bad brake booster, vacuum leaks, bad AAV, bad TPS, air in coolant, clogged coolant hose, dirty idle screw, and on and on and on.

robm

Test the afm, check for leaks in your intake tube, rubber elbows can cause issues if they leak. Is it throwing any codes? Is the egr valve functioning properly? Is the O2 sensor good? If you've got a fsm it has details on how to check everything including the ecu. Have you checked the vf signal, that will tell you if it's running rich, lean, or normal? Have you tested the tps?

robm

Did you test the ecu coolant sensor? There's a YouTube video from the guys at 22re performance on how to do that.

deutschman

I just got my Haynes manual in the mail. That should help.
Sounds like I need to make a long list and just spend the day testing everything.
I did put some thread tape on my idle control screw and that seamed to help a bit. The rubber ring gasket was real warn out.

robm

I'm dealing with rough idle and a miss right now myself. I have found the factory service manual invaluable! It has saved me lots of money by being able to test things instead of just replace. It's the ˟˟˟˟s! I've got about 3k into a full rebuild and engine upgrades, but am afraid to drive it because I don't want something to happen because of the miss. Good luck! Be sure and post as you've started testing things and checking them off the list.

Smeddy2

Just got done chasing down my demons. My symptoms were a bit different but it ended up being my valve lash was way out of spec.

You can find the factory service manual for free online and it has a list of all the things to check and how to check them for high idle/rough idle issues. Vacuum leaks, stuck egr valve, bad afm, air bubble in coolant, bad coolant temp sensor, bad cold start crank sensor, bad brake booster, any number of the vacuum switches could be bad...the list goes on. I'm pretty sure there is a sticky regarding idle issues as well.

Have you tried to see if you have any CEL codes?

deutschman

I havent checked any codes yet. I am asuming its a stomp test much like other OBD1 machines or maybe bridging some terminals some where. Ill check my manual.
Ill make sure I write down what I have found and fixed so this thread can hopefully help others down the line.
Is it normal for these trucks to have a rushing water noise behind the dash? Iv tried to burp my coolant a few times and I cant get it to go away. Heater on blast, front of the truck in the air, cap off and running hot with Tstat open. It only makes the water rushing noise when I first drive away in the morning and then its quiet for the rest of the day. I squeezed all the hoses and did everything I could think of.

Smeddy2

You are right on checking the code. You just bridge some terminals in the diagnostic port next to the panel box in the engine bay. I don't remember what the terminals are off the top of my head (maybe T and E1?) but it would say in your Haynes manual.

Mine did make that rushing water sound too. It is awful hard to burp all the air out. I install a t-flush kit in the heater hose which makes it a little easier to flush all the air out. I think this last flush I did got rid of the sound.

Smeddy2

I also remembered having a high idle issue a while back because the oring on my idle adjust screw had gone bad. If you have some propane, I would say step one is making sure you don't have vacuum leaks anywhere. Intake gaskets, intake tubes, afm gaskets, vacuum switches, vacuum lines, idle screw, pcv valve, egr valve, PAIR valve or AAV (mine got stuck open once).

I'm interested to see if you have rich or lean CEL codes...

The only electronic idle controlling items are you oxygen sensors, coolant temp sensor, AFM, TPS, the little vacuum switches and the cold start time switch.

I also remember having some trouble with my acceleration dampener on the throttle body getting stuck causing a high idle.

deutschman

So here is the conclusion.
Turns out I had two (2) separate idle issues.
I am not sure what caused number one. I fixed a whole lot of things before my surging idle went away and I cant remember which one made it disappear.

-I disconnected my AAV hoses and blocked them off. It is still bypassed/deleted, and the truck runs fine because it is never very cold here in CA. Some times its a bit grumpy in the morning but it worms right up. I personally think the AAV was causing the surging idle.
-I replaced the ECU coolant sensor.
-I replaced all my vacuum lines.
-I cleaned the carbon on the idle set screw and teflon taped it. The factory rubber gasket can get old and hard and it start leaking.
-I replaced all my coolant hoses and radiator, cleaned/flushed the system, and then burped the system to make sure no air was causing problems.

The truck runs well now an the motor sounds happier/smoother. Plus the temp never goes above 180-185F.

The second idle issue was caused by my TB getting stuck open. I cleaned the TB till it was shiny inside. Then I went to Ace Hardware and bought a thicker throttle return spring. After I had that installed, I knew the TB was shut, and I adjusted the idle set screw accordingly.

So thats about it.

If anyone has any idle issues my suggestion is this. Start with the very simple obvious things first and then work your way to the harder more expensive things like the AAV, TPS, bad fuel injectors and so on. The list of things that can cause a high idle on a 22re or for that matter a 3vze is quite extensive, and its kind of a matter of trouble shooting your way through a lot of options before you find whats wrong. Kind of like an electrical issue. Just work your way back through the problem.

Thanks for all the help guys!

grumpin

Great! Good news, glad you got it. Thanks for posting the fix(es). That helps.

abecedarian

Never very cold in CA? I've lived in and around Riverside county and have seen it near 0F so not sure what part of CA you're in.

To me, it sounds like you have more issues than you're willing to deal with so since the band-aids work you're going to ignore them. That's my opinion, so take it for what you will.

deutschman

I live in the 94903 area code. Average yearly temp temp is about 58F with a low of mid 40s. Sorry I wasnt specific enough for you.
Band-aids? The entire point of this thread was to not ignore issues, and to track them down so I could eliminate them. I no longer have any of the issues I had when I started this thread. Im not ignoring anything. I replaced the entire cooling system and vacuum lines with new parts along with a few new sensors and parts. Those are not "band-aid" fixes.
A new AAV is about $200 and no I dont have the extra cash flow to replace that right now, and the car runs fine with out it. So yeah thats gone.
No condoms, JB weld, garden hose, or any other half ass stuff was used.
So Im not sure what your issue is.
Cheers buddy.