Philbert

iTrader: (2)

What would that tell me? It's having a hard time starting cold as is, and stumbles a lot while idling cold

Something new I found today was that the flap inside my Supra AFM was stuck OPEN. I put it back and it ran better at idle. Then, a little while later, after some revs, it ran poorly and stunk rich....shut down and looked and the AFM door was again stuck open. I think this may be the culprit...wouldn't it tell the ECU that there is more air going into the motor when in fact there isn't (at idle) - causing a rich condition?

Any tips on how to make my door stop sticking open?

pcmentor

If you remove it and it doesn't get worse, the cs inj is not operating.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks PCmentor - makes sense - like how to isolate a dead coil with the coil on plug setups in newer cars - gotcha.

This morning I checked the AFM and the door was fine - not stuck open. I started it and got the same low, stumbling idle as before. Died a couple times before staying alive. In the first couple minutes of warmup, I disconnected the CSI plug - and plugged it in again - several times. Honestly really hard to tell if it made a difference because it was already stumbling so low. It wasn't a difference you'd notice like when you pull a spark plug wire or a coil on a modern car. Should it make a huge drop/kill the motor if CSI is working? I think I did it right but I really can't tell if it changed the motor's health when pulled/replaced/pulled....

pcmentor

Hi, what I did was to unplug it when off and tried to start it. It would not start after a couple trys.( I never made it run this way but I guessed you might be having a similar problem. I could have started it by holding the throttle down and cranking for a while I think.)
Then I plugged it in and it started cold right away. I am not sure if this is helpful to you.

LVJPW

My 22rte runs good(not great) and i'm working out the knock sensor issue and I finally installed and adjusted a new Toyota TPS. Runs much better but still have a weak idle like it was trying to get air. I removed the iacv or aav and it was stuck closed. I bypassed it and of course it idles very high with the idle screw all the way in. I got a CEL on the way to work but I'm sure it was just my Knock sensor acting up again. Anyone else had an issue with the IACV stuck closed? My FSM says I can manually adjust it but when I had it at cold and running temp the valve didn't move. It looked rather clean inside but doesnt function like it should.
Thanks

pcmentor

When I had the AAV out I applied 12 v to it and you could see the valve coming open very slowly as it heated up. It is adjustable too. Pete

bmrtoyo

ok mine is dripping coolant ,, idle is getting rough ,, i called dealership and they said they dont have gasket listed for this ,,FSM lists gasket ,,conversation below speaks of diaphram ???so anyone have pics of 1 torn apart ,and also who has gaket[s] /diaphram ? thanks everyone

bmrtoyo

hello anyone know where to get that gasket for that aux air valve ,, i have an 86 22re its leaking coolant out and NO one lists gasket ,, or aux air valve ?im on the quest

pcmentor

If the iac valve body is leaking coolant it has corroded through.

bmrtoyo

its actually seeping between the two parts , there is a gasket in there 4 screws go in from front to rear ,been told if the diaphragm goes out starts pulling coolant up into the intake ,bad ju ju ,no sign of that ,just got the drip lol ill pull it when it warms up here ,got three other vehicles to drive ,its throwing the idle off ,if the CTS gets air across it , it throws the idle off ,dont like air in my cooling system ..... if it is the housing its shot ,and this is not an easy part to find new anyway ,,theres a few good used sources ive got ,but i hate buying used parts when it come to driveabilty / tune /emissions area

pcmentor

When I had it out and apart there was no coolant in the body. The coolant just flows through the side. See the image and you can see the flow path in the cutaway. Pete

bmrtoyo

im gonna have to find one thats the fun part ,,never had a problem locating parts for my 86 ,but they are getting scarce in some areas i guess.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...-22r-e-228223/

Is the gasket completely disintegrated? On mine, the gasket was in ok shape and I just added some FIPG and then put it back together. You may have to check the dealer or an online Toyota parts distributor. Or, just make your own gasket, easy enough.

bmrtoyo

its a total wicked cold wave here when it warms up im going to dig into it its like 2 degrees here rite now ,,high of 12 tomorrow,, dealers here locally are saying item not in stock ,gasket ,or aux air valve ,,gonna hit web ,,,ive used lots of permatex in my time , k ill try FIPG when i get into it , i have two other rigs i can drive so im in no hurry ,appreciate the responses from everyone !

bmrtoyo

yes i see in cutaway ,,on another forum guy said theirs a diaphragm in there and it goes bad and then coolant gets drawn up into throttle body and into the intake ,,BAD NEWS! if that happenshave heard i can go to 99 or newer intake and delete aux air valve argggggg

dlister70

I was having problems with a surging idle, and most of my internet research led me to believe it was a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve. This YouTube video showed a guy with the same problem getting it cleared by removing a clog in the coolant line that runs from the IAC to the thermostat.

My issue was on the other end of the hose at the inlet to the IAC that faces the valve cover, but it was indeed clogged at the IAC. Once I fished out the clog (it looked like fiberglass and rubber gasket material), my truck is idling smooth for the first time in over a year!!

I just figured I'd leave this here since my internet search led me to this thread among others, and hopefully some other poor soul will get their Toyota pickup fixed when they find this thread.

Red Leader

Hey guys, just to stir the pot a little bit.

I had a high/surging idle in my '90 22RE for a while and it turned out to be the dash-pot, which is this little cylindrical spring unit that sits under the throttle assembly (where the throttle cable hooks on). It was malfunctioning and kept pushing my throttle open. They are designed to keep the vehicle from stalling by more slowly closing the air intake while immediately removing throttle pressure.

It would be a harmless thing to remove yours to just test out the vehicle by driving around without it and see if it makes a difference. I have been driving around without mine now for almost a year and it fixed my idle and haven't stalled out

osv

i think that it's more like '88 or '89 newer plenum/throttle body, not '99.

well worth the effort to swap those parts, in order to get rid of the aav

Sellers94

Any body know if this should have a screw in the top?

blkcaddy2005

Hello, so I have a small opening in the timing cover gasket so I leak a little coolant when it is full. I fill it up the radiator when low, but I have the surging up and down when the temperature reaches warm and only when I push in the brake.

So could be low coolant or maybe the break booster?