22RE Head Gasket and Timing Chain Replacement PICS

all_terrain17 · 06-22-2006, 09:31 PM

It's time to replace the timing chain before I head off to school, and many of you have suggested I go ahead and pull the head. 180k on the motor, so replacing the head gasket while I'm at it doesn't seem like such a bad idea. Since this is such an involved procedure (for me at least), I'm going to post my progress and see what you think. I'm open to ideas and I want to learn, so feel free to chime in and give some much needed advice. Here goes...

Before Procedure

I've been soaking the exhaust manifold with PB Blaster. The thought of stripping threads on the head has really scared me.

Draining the coolant is always an adventure.

PS out of the way...

And finally alternator and AC compressor removed.

Thats all I managed to get tonight...manifolds are tomorrow. Hopefully progress will remain steady.

Let me know what you think.

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mastacox · 06-22-2006, 09:51 PM

That is a clean engine! Mine is covered in dirt and stuff.

ovrrdrive · 06-23-2006, 02:05 AM

Very nice clean engine... My hasn't looked that good for years.

Btw, you did see the guides to doing the chain right?

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

And factory service manual link:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html

Lots of good stuff there.

The alternator could have actually stayed on the lower bracket and hooked up. You have to remove the top bracket, but the bottom could have just been loosened. No big deal though, just a small extra step.

When you take the bolts out of the timing cover be sure to stick them in cardboard into a diagram of the cover. Ther're all diffreent lengths and there is no way to remember exactly what hole they came out of without a diagram.

It's not a bad idea to notate which ones held on extra accessories either.

The lower pulley bolt isn't that bad. A bunch here use the "breaker bar against the frome rail and bump the starter" method to get it off, but I just put the truck in 5th gear and pulled the brake and muscled it off. I didn't want to try the starter method unless absolutely necesarry. It made me nervous. It's only torqued to 116 lbs, it isn't that bad.

I also got a medium stiffness wire brush for my drill that I used to clean parts and old gasket matierial with . It really works great and was only like $3.86 at Walmart.

Like I said, take plenty of pics. They really will help give you a reference later if you need it. If you missed one or two I took a few hunded from all different angles you're welcome to look at too. I uploaded them to my server too so I could study them from work while I was in the figuring out and planning stages. They came in handy for the power steering bracket, several vacuum lines, and some parts of the wiring harness.

Good luck. I'll post more if I think of anything else. This is all fresh in my mind as I just got mine running again last Saturday.

ovrrdrive · 06-23-2006, 02:07 AM

Btw, have you had that intake off?

It looks brand new...

spirtlanimilbus · 06-23-2006, 04:10 AM

damn dude his puts yours to shame ovrrdrive.....

TNRabbit · 06-23-2006, 05:11 AM

D@mn! That engine bay looks brand new...and with that many miles on it. KUDOS!

gohawks · 06-23-2006, 06:07 AM

very clean, very nice....makes me wish I had the 22re

Flash319 · 06-23-2006, 07:26 AM

I hate to say it but I would have left that nice engine alone. I would change the timing set with the head on. I buy into the "if it ain't broke don't fix" saying. That head gasket may last a long time or may not but by ripping into it you are asking for more trouble IMHO. Again very nice engine. Good luck.

all_terrain17 · 06-23-2006, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ovrrdrive

Btw, you did see the guides to doing the chain right?

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

And factory service manual link:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html

Yeah, I've been looking over those two at the top for the last month...still trying to figure out Roger Browns tensioning technique with twisting the cam and all.

And for all those who think I own a clean motor, its only clean on top.

Thanks and keep the advice coming, I needed it as I get to work today. Ill post more pics tonight.

EWAYota · 06-23-2006, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ovrrdrive

When you take the bolts out of the timing cover be sure to stick them in cardboard into a diagram of the cover. Ther're all diffreent lengths and there is no way to remember exactly what hole they came out of without a diagram.

True that! I didn't do that, and am lost beyond all lostness. If you do that, could you do me a favor and measure each bolt length and the location of the bolts via photo?

I wanted to just replace all of them, but I had missplaced a few of them and guessed on length. And, after calling and web searching, there isn't a 22RE Timing Cover bolt kit out there, unless you go with engnbldr's dual chain kit.

So, I would like to know what the proper lengths are for them.

BTW, on the timing chain cover, once you get all the bolts off from the front, the two water pipes on the side held on by 2 bolts each, and the bolt that goes into the top of the timing cover, there is 1 more on the back of the drivers side, under the water pipe. Just a fyi. I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get mine off at first, and discovered that bolt.

So make sure you note each bolt's location, front and back.

Good luck and look forward to the info. Mine is down for the foreseable future, so I'm trying to get all my questions answered before I go back in.
I've got some left over parts from when I did mine, might take some photo's of them, and see if you can id where they go

all_terrain17 · 06-23-2006, 11:54 AM

Update...

Managed to seperate the vacuum hoses and lift the upper intake out

Luckily, I managed to keep most of the vacuum lines attatched

After taking a look at the wiring harness weaved into the lower intake, I noticed ALL OF THE TRANNY WIRING RUNS RIGHT THROUGH THE MIDDLE

What a PITA to remove - someone plz tell me this wasn't necessary

I pulled it out and to the side anyways

This is it as of lunch today, wiring harness pulled aside

My "Imaginary Engine" so far...

Thanks for all of the replies and advice, Ill be sure to keep an eye out for that timing cover bolt. Btw, should you be able to rotate the injectors somewhat while they're still in the lower intake?

Quote:

Originally Posted by EWAYota

True that! I didn't do that, and am lost beyond all lostness. If you do that, could you do me a favor and measure each bolt length and the location of the bolts via photo?

I wanted to just replace all of them, but I had missplaced a few of them and guessed on length. And, after calling and web searching, there isn't a 22RE Timing Cover bolt kit out there, unless you go with engnbldr's dual chain kit.

So, I would like to know what the proper lengths are for them.

I'd be happy to. cm or in on the bolt lengths?

I'm gonna finish the rest of the vauum lines and lower intake now. Exhaust will come later tonight. I'll be sure to update.

Thanks

kyle_22r · 06-23-2006, 01:19 PM

yep, the injectors aren't a compression fit, they float on an o-ring on the fuel rail and and one in the intake manifold.

you think its fun pulling that part of the harness away from the tranny -- if you ever pull the engine you need to unplug it from the ECU and pull it through the firewall, and remove the upper intake to unplug everything!

ovrrdrive · 06-23-2006, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EWAYota

True that! I didn't do that, and am lost beyond all lostness. If you do that, could you do me a favor and measure each bolt length and the location of the bolts via photo?

They have the exact diagram you are looking for on this page...

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

I even seperated mine on a diagram and still got confused on a few bolts... It pays to be really careful in this step.

all_terrain17 · 06-23-2006, 05:00 PM

Back again with the manifolds removed

Intake put up a little bit of a fight but not too bad

Soaking the exhaust manifold repeatedly for 2 days with PB Blaster made removal fairly easy

I did however snap two bolts on the bottom of the lower intake manifold, despite soaking them with PB Blaster

Easy out?

Now I'm left with the crank bolt. 5th gear, hubs locked, 4L, fairly new clutch, and yet the crank still turns

I guess I'm left to do the starter trick? If so, where should I place the bar -
seems like the steering gear box is in the way for some reason...check Roger Brown's TCR site, his steering box seems much further back.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

I'm guessing it's because he's got a solid axle?

Oh yeah, I've read about many people having trouble finding the hidden allen bolt on the lower intake manifold - here it is for future reference

It runs through the thermostat housing. Took me a while to find too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kyle_22r

yep, the injectors aren't a compression fit, they float on an o-ring on the fuel rail and and one in the intake manifold.

you think its fun pulling that part of the harness away from the tranny -- if you ever pull the engine you need to unplug it from the ECU and pull it through the firewall, and remove the upper intake to unplug everything!

Lol, yeah I guess I had it easy after all. Give me some info on what I should next peoples, I need the guidance. Thanks again.

EWAYota · 06-23-2006, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ovrrdrive

They have the exact diagram you are looking for on this page...

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

I even seperated mine on a diagram and still got confused on a few bolts... It pays to be really careful in this step.

I've looked at that. Still misses a few of the bolts though. Not sure if both of the top bolts are 2 9/16th's, if 2 of them are 3 3/16th's and what the water pipe and the 3rd bolt on the back are suppose to be.

ovrrdrive · 06-23-2006, 05:07 PM

Btw, my injectors almost fell out when I took the fuel rail off too. They fit pretty loose.

spirtlanimilbus took all of the plugs off my transmission for me but mine definitely had to come off too. At that point I was so burned out I was tempted to just leave them hooked up and clean the intake in the truck.

He knew where they went though so it went smooth. Hell, he even hooked them back up right too.

ovrrdrive · 06-23-2006, 05:09 PM

Btw, put the truck in 4h or 2h, not 4l. I had mine in low one time I took it out and had the same problem. I just left mine in 2h.

Sonofmayhem · 06-23-2006, 08:24 PM

i put mine in reverse to tighten it and 1st to loosen it w/ the parking brake and in 4h and it worked gooooooood. but then again it was removed by some asshat a month before. so it wasnt in there so tight.

all_terrain17 · 06-24-2006, 06:28 AM

Will be sure to try other gears to loosen the bolt. Engnbldr timing kit should be on its way soon, and I'm still deciding what brand of headgasket. Also looked into ARP head studs, but the price was a bit steed I thought. Not gonna be able to get any time in as I have to work a double shift 2day. yay.

spirtlanimilbus · 06-24-2006, 07:02 AM

change your oil filter to something besides a fram.... pleeeeeeease!!!!!!!

friends dont let friends use fram oil filters!!!!

**Yoda** · 06-24-2006, 08:25 AM

DON"T CRANK THE ENGINE WITH THE KEY>>>>>YOUR FUEL LINES ARE OPEN

You could use a "remote starter switch" hooked directly to the crank terminal of the starter.

You put the breaker bar under the pass side frame. Then, when you bump the starter, it falls to the floor after loosening the crank bolt.

Remember to change the fuel filter while it is so accessible

kyle_22r · 06-24-2006, 05:06 PM

aw cmon, it's just a little gasoline

disconnecting the AFM would probably prevent it from spewing all over.

don't bother with the head studs unless you've got forced induction. stock bolts work just fine. i can recommend either engnbldr's head gasket or the dealer one, they are nearly identical.

all_terrain17 · 06-24-2006, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spirtlanimilbus

change your oil filter to something besides a fram.... pleeeeeeease!!!!!!!

friends dont let friends use fram oil filters!!!!

lol, yeah I do need to do something about that.

I assumed it would be fine to place the bar underneath the passenger side frame rail, but I did want to hear it from someone else, so thanks for the confirmation.

And yes, I have already had a fuel spray after turning the key

System was mostly depressurized though after removing the cold start injector, so it wasn't bad at all - but I'll be sure not to make that mistake again.

Two more questions...
Is it alright to reuse the headbolts? and
In which order should I remove and install the head and timing cover?

Thanks again for the tips and encouragement! It's been kinda difficult to sleep the last few nights knowing how far into this I'll be. Tomorrow afternoon I'll begin disassembling the motor.

**Yoda** · 06-24-2006, 10:12 PM

OK to re-use.

I just remembered, there is a head bolt REMOVAL pattern to help prevent the head warping. (I think it is the reverse of the tightening sequence)

Also don't forget the little bolt under the distributor gear (in that little puddle of oil)

all_terrain17 · 06-25-2006, 10:15 AM

Yes, the Haynes manual gives the tightening sequence. And although it's ok to reuse the head bolts, I'm going to look into getting a head gasket set anyways since I'm this far in anyways.

Also, what about all of the small gaskets for the emissions system? Should I order all of them or simply use some sort of sealant?

I'm headed out to the shop now to take off the timing cover.

06-22-2006, 09:51 PM	#2 (permalink)
mastacox Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Los Alamos, NM Posts: 2,650	That is a clean engine! Mine is covered in dirt and stuff. __________________ Brian 1998 4Runner SR5

06-23-2006, 02:05 AM	#3 (permalink)
ovrrdrive Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,775	Very nice clean engine... My hasn't looked that good for years. Btw, you did see the guides to doing the chain right? http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/ http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml And factory service manual link: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html Lots of good stuff there. The alternator could have actually stayed on the lower bracket and hooked up. You have to remove the top bracket, but the bottom could have just been loosened. No big deal though, just a small extra step. When you take the bolts out of the timing cover be sure to stick them in cardboard into a diagram of the cover. Ther're all diffreent lengths and there is no way to remember exactly what hole they came out of without a diagram. It's not a bad idea to notate which ones held on extra accessories either. The lower pulley bolt isn't that bad. A bunch here use the "breaker bar against the frome rail and bump the starter" method to get it off, but I just put the truck in 5th gear and pulled the brake and muscled it off. I didn't want to try the starter method unless absolutely necesarry. It made me nervous. It's only torqued to 116 lbs, it isn't that bad. I also got a medium stiffness wire brush for my drill that I used to clean parts and old gasket matierial with . It really works great and was only like $3.86 at Walmart. Like I said, take plenty of pics. They really will help give you a reference later if you need it. If you missed one or two I took a few hunded from all different angles you're welcome to look at too. I uploaded them to my server too so I could study them from work while I was in the figuring out and planning stages. They came in handy for the power steering bracket, several vacuum lines, and some parts of the wiring harness. Good luck. I'll post more if I think of anything else. This is all fresh in my mind as I just got mine running again last Saturday. __________________ '95 xcab - SOLD '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock

06-23-2006, 02:07 AM	#4 (permalink)
ovrrdrive Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,775	Btw, have you had that intake off? It looks brand new... __________________ '95 xcab - SOLD '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock

06-23-2006, 06:07 AM	#7 (permalink)
gohawks Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,274	very clean, very nice....makes me wish I had the 22re __________________ SERENITY NOW!!

06-23-2006, 01:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
kyle_22r Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Lacey, WA Posts: 3,992	yep, the injectors aren't a compression fit, they float on an o-ring on the fuel rail and and one in the intake manifold. you think its fun pulling that part of the harness away from the tranny -- if you ever pull the engine you need to unplug it from the ECU and pull it through the firewall, and remove the upper intake to unplug everything! __________________ 1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts past toys: 1984 4x2 1979 4x4 1991 4x4

06-23-2006, 04:10 AM	#5 (permalink)
spirtlanimilbus Banned Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 49	damn dude his puts yours to shame ovrrdrive.....

06-23-2006, 07:26 AM	#8 (permalink)
Flash319 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Barrie, Ontario CANADA Posts: 1,356	I hate to say it but I would have left that nice engine alone. I would change the timing set with the head on. I buy into the "if it ain't broke don't fix" saying. That head gasket may last a long time or may not but by ripping into it you are asking for more trouble IMHO. Again very nice engine. Good luck.

06-23-2006, 05:07 PM	#16 (permalink)
ovrrdrive Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,775	Btw, my injectors almost fell out when I took the fuel rail off too. They fit pretty loose. spirtlanimilbus took all of the plugs off my transmission for me but mine definitely had to come off too. At that point I was so burned out I was tempted to just leave them hooked up and clean the intake in the truck. He knew where they went though so it went smooth. Hell, he even hooked them back up right too. __________________ '95 xcab - SOLD '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock

06-23-2006, 05:09 PM	#17 (permalink)
ovrrdrive Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Central Florida Posts: 1,775	Btw, put the truck in 4h or 2h, not 4l. I had mine in low one time I took it out and had the same problem. I just left mine in 2h. __________________ '95 xcab - SOLD '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock

06-23-2006, 08:24 PM	#18 (permalink)
Sonofmayhem Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Springs, Colorado Posts: 1,700	i put mine in reverse to tighten it and 1st to loosen it w/ the parking brake and in 4h and it worked gooooooood. but then again it was removed by some asshat a month before. so it wasnt in there so tight. __________________ 4.3/5.0 Do iT!

06-24-2006, 06:28 AM	#19 (permalink)
all_terrain17 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 748	Will be sure to try other gears to loosen the bolt. Engnbldr timing kit should be on its way soon, and I'm still deciding what brand of headgasket. Also looked into ARP head studs, but the price was a bit steed I thought. Not gonna be able to get any time in as I have to work a double shift 2day. yay. __________________ 94' Pickup

06-24-2006, 07:02 AM	#20 (permalink)
spirtlanimilbus Banned Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 49	change your oil filter to something besides a fram.... pleeeeeeease!!!!!!! friends dont let friends use fram oil filters!!!!

06-24-2006, 08:25 AM	#21 (permalink)
Yoda Super Moderator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Bend, WA Posts: 2,664	DON"T CRANK THE ENGINE WITH THE KEY>>>>>YOUR FUEL LINES ARE OPEN You could use a "remote starter switch" hooked directly to the crank terminal of the starter. You put the breaker bar under the pass side frame. Then, when you bump the starter, it falls to the floor after loosening the crank bolt. Remember to change the fuel filter while it is so accessible __________________ David TLCA 14788 71 Landcruiser FJ-40 TBI 327, TH-350, Warn 8000, disk axle swap. 76 Landcruiser FJ-40 project/parts (haven't decided)

06-24-2006, 05:06 PM	#22 (permalink)
kyle_22r Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Lacey, WA Posts: 3,992	aw cmon, it's just a little gasoline disconnecting the AFM would probably prevent it from spewing all over. don't bother with the head studs unless you've got forced induction. stock bolts work just fine. i can recommend either engnbldr's head gasket or the dealer one, they are nearly identical. __________________ 1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts past toys: 1984 4x2 1979 4x4 1991 4x4

06-24-2006, 10:12 PM	#24 (permalink)
Yoda Super Moderator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Bend, WA Posts: 2,664	OK to re-use. I just remembered, there is a head bolt REMOVAL pattern to help prevent the head warping. (I think it is the reverse of the tightening sequence) Also don't forget the little bolt under the distributor gear (in that little puddle of oil) __________________ David TLCA 14788 71 Landcruiser FJ-40 TBI 327, TH-350, Warn 8000, disk axle swap. 76 Landcruiser FJ-40 project/parts (haven't decided)

06-25-2006, 10:15 AM	#25 (permalink)
all_terrain17 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 748	Yes, the Haynes manual gives the tightening sequence. And although it's ok to reuse the head bolts, I'm going to look into getting a head gasket set anyways since I'm this far in anyways. Also, what about all of the small gaskets for the emissions system? Should I order all of them or simply use some sort of sealant? I'm headed out to the shop now to take off the timing cover. __________________ 94' Pickup

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