When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
22re having a misfire under load, and sometimes at idle. Down on power.
This just started up yesterday out of nowhere. The truck is idling fine for the most part, but after idling for 20 seconds or so, it will sometimes slowly turn into a rough stumble, but never dies. If i tap the gas it revs fine, although i did have a misfire when revving from idle once yesterday when I was troubleshooting it. When under load, about mid way through the gear it starts to hesitate and stutter almost to the point where it wont accelerate anymore. Going up any kind of hill is hopeless. I just changed the fuel filter tonight but that didn't fix it. The fuel pump has a normal sounding hum to it. Plugs and wires were changed last summer (less than ~5k miles on them). Any ideas what i should check out? I might rent a fuel pressure tester from OReilly's tomorrow and see what the pressure is right off the fuel tank.
You dont say which year, but the 85-87 injector connectors are a poor design. I have had them to be bad and cause a misfire. With the truck idling and some long needle nose pliers, gently grab the connector and lift up and down on the connector and see if it misfires. 88 and up injector connectors are much better so probably not an issue if a newer truck.
If it is reving up fine, I doubt that you are having a fuel supply issue. A cheap way of checking to see if you are getting plenty of fuel is to pull the Return line off of the rail and it should fill a quart jar in about a minute or so. You will be able to see if it getting plenty of fuel that way. Either by running the truck or jumpering the FP and +B.
As far a fuel pressure, the way I kind of check is with the engine off, I loosen the Cold Start Injector. It will spray fuel out hard. You will need to replace the crush washer after loosening it.
I would check for vacuum leaks. The AFM can be bad and not throw codes. Doing a resistance check on it is easy to do. I think it is listed in the Haynes Manual if you dont have access to a Factory Service Manual.
I would at least do a resistance check on your plug wires. I have gotten them bad out of the box when new. One of the toughest problems I ever worked on. I was sure that the wires were new and had to be a problem elsewhere.
Doing a resistance check on your Primary and Secondary of the coil is an easy check even thought I do not suspect it.
Here is how you do a Fuel Pump Bypass on the 85/86.
Jumper wire the Yellow Plug on Drivers side. ( Jumper wire should be in both contacts for testing, I just didnt have it in for picture purposes and mostly a referece for me at a later time.)
Fp +B Fuel Pump Test for 87 and newer. Use a paper clip for better results.
I was racing the rain tonight so i didn't have much time to work on it. I was thinking about what you said about the spark plug wires and figured they're $20 and fast to change out so i did that. it didn't fix it. I was paying closer attention to the idle and it is rougher than normal. When revving off idle, i do get a small hickup, then it free rev's fine. Still down on power when driving. I can feel it wanting to go, almost like a subtle "go stop go stop" kind of feeling.
I was almost wondering if i got a bit of water in the tank. I went wheeling on sunday when the issue started. i drove it to the car wash fine afterwards. I have the box off the truck so i had to spray down the top of the gas tank with the pressure washer, the fill neck, and the back of the gas cap where mud was built up. I don't know how easily water can get past the cap or how much water it woudl take spoil 1/3 - 1/2 tank of gas, but it was on my drive home from the car wash when the issue started.
Depending on how aggressively you washed the truck, I would be inclined to think you got some water in the distributor or in the connections to the coil. Might want to pull the dist cap and make sure it's dry inside. Also, once things start arcing over inside a distributor cap, the arc leaves a carbon trail that will then create a permanent misfire.
I didn't go too crazy with it. I just washed the outside, gas tank, and under body. I didn't pop the hood and wash the engine bay, but I could still try throwing a new cap and rotor on it in case it just happened to go bad right then
Turns out the cap and rotor happened to go bad right then. I was over thinking it. Pulled the cap and rotor off and this is what I saw. Replaced it and it runs like a charm
Judging from the debris pattern I'd say either the large O-ring that sits under the distributor cap has been flattened or shrunk up to the point that it's worthless, or the O-ring is missing. It's job is to seal against the bottom of the distributor cap and help keep it clean in there. Because of where the distributor is mounted it's a good idea to keep it and make sure it's sealing.
Mine was flattened and hardened up to the point it wasn't doing it's job so I replaced it with one from NAPA. It was actually slightly thicker than a New Toyota O-ring but still fit in the groove so "theoretically" it should do a better job of sealing... until time and heat cycles take their toll. I also applied some Dow Corning 111 silicone to it in an attempt to keep it supple but we'll see.
Scratch that. Misfire isn't fixed. I drove it up the street and back last night and it was great. I drove it to work this morning and it started acting up again 6 blocks later. I'll try HEET and filling up the rest of the tank to dilute/absorb any moisture that might be in the tank.
if that cap looks like that, when was the last time the plugs and wires were done? pull the cap back off and inspect it to see if there is any new damage.
if that cap looks like that, when was the last time the plugs and wires were done? pull the cap back off and inspect it to see if there is any new damage.
I can do that tonight after work. I just went out to lunch and decided to try unplugging the o2 sensor to see if that may be the culprit. It ran perfectly all lunch. That might be it. I'll run it like that on the way home and see if it comes back
The plugs and plug wires were done last summer. I didn't do the cap/rotor at the same time. That cap and rotor was the one installed when i bought the truck
The truck has been running fine for a couple days without the o2 sensor now. That has to be the issue. I ordered one thru autozone but they got the wrong one. I read somewhere that someone picked up a cheap denzo one from amazon that worked perfectly, but they didn't say which one. I'm guessing it's one of these two. Anyone know which?
check your fitment on amazon. the first fits a 1990 4runner and the second doesn't.... but you never stated what truck this is, so........ (could have saved a few of us some time)
check your fitment on amazon. the first fits a 1990 4runner and the second doesn't.... but you never stated what truck this is, so........ (could have saved a few of us some time)
I thought I had said it's for an 88 pickup, but my browser crashed on that post and forgot to put that detail back in.
Amazon's website is terrible when it comes to matching vehicles with the right part so I never trust it anymore. After some digging, i found where to get part numbers from Denso's website. The correct o2 sensor for my truck should be this one, even though Amazon says it's wrong. Hopefully someone will find this useful in the future.
Good idea but not a good site to put trust in.
Amazon part searches have steered alot of people wrong when it comes to their vehicles.
When searching for OEM parts always use a dealership website. One exception might be toyotapartsoverstock.com.
When searching for aftermarket parts always check the manufacturers website first. I'll usually double check that manufacturers part number with a site like rockauto and at least one other before I'm comfortable it's the correct part.
Glad to here all is well again. Them darn sensors, how did we ever get by without them? Oh, my bad we did for so many years. Getting down from soapbox now, sorry could not resist. Some advances are more of a hurdle than others. Horse & buggy too slow, LOL. I prefer my wallet full & bulging.
Did you change the cap and rotor? The center electrode is spring loaded and is supposed to stick out a bit and not be flushed or flattened like in your photo where a brand new cap would be round.
Did you change the cap and rotor? The center electrode is spring loaded and is supposed to stick out a bit and not be flushed or flattened like in your photo where a brand new cap would be round.
Yes I did. It didn't fix my issue at the time, but it was definitely going bad.
08-17-2015, 06:59 PM
