84 yota ex-cab

Hi, i am looking to build a 22re. I want to run a header with 2.25in exhaust, big bore throttle body, intake and a cam. What kind of horsepower could i expect with these mods?

84 yota ex-cab

I forgot one thing. I was also thinking about oversize valves and dual valve springs. Possably injectors.

SEAIRESCUE

One HP per cubic inch if your are lucky and you RPM the motor hard. All the parts you describe are best suited for midrange and above so that is where your power will come. You may want to look at shaving the head and buying an adjustable cam gear which will be necessary to put the cam timing back to zero. As you cut the head, the cam goes retarded. A 1/8" cut will retard the cam about 10 degrees. The compression will add torque and throttle response but you may want to save this idea until the head must come off. I suggest you contact Crower Cams in San Diego and tell them what you got and where you want to go. They can custom grind you a cam or sell you a budget cam that may best suit your intentions. No, I don't know anyone there.

My $0.02

Flash319

Don't waste your money. Swap in a V6. People ask this question all the time. The 22re is not much of a hop up engine. 1 intake valve, 1 exhaust valve= limited. The head on these is the problem spot. You can't pull much air through them.

Throttle body = useless
2.25 inch header = a few ponies
Cam = moves the power around
Oversized valves = a few ponies
Injectors = useless

$1500++ for Max 25hp.......maybe????
$2500 for 3.4L for 100+ hp
Do the math.

The other route is low compression pistons and a turbocharger. Even then your still only at 140hp if your lucky.

IMHO!!!

ozziesironmanoffroad

crower cams are great, my buddy went through them. and yes im from san diego lol

89whitetoyota

nice description on ponies vs. useless.

Tagetnut has a hot motor, but in his his build up thread he totally cut and modified his intake, and is running alot of supra parts, then again he has a two wheel, slammed piece rather than a big bitch on big tires.

CoedNaked

LCE has a 22RE performance kit for about $1000. It includes cams, big bore throttle body, headers, and I'm trying to recall what else- I think a K & N FIPK. Add their 2 1/4" mandrel bent exhaust and you'll have a much peppier engine I would imagine.

88wildrunner

i have the lc header with downey cat back exuahst and dowey kn&N style intake, i only notice the power gain in the mid range like others have said. and it a little quicker from a dead stop.

Blackulua

I have all of the mods that you are looking for.I also added a Supra AFM,LCE cam sprocket adjuster,ARP head studs,Engnbldr street RV head and 270 cam and engine block bored .020 over.
The engine is running very well matched with a Clutchmaster clutch and 4:56 gears.The gas mileage ranges form 18-22mpg.The ignition is left all stock with just MSD spark plug wires.
The truck is driven everyday daily to work & play.

Good luck on your rebuild.

osb40000

I wouldn't waste my money on a 22re if you're looking for power. After all the mods it's still a slug. A 4.3, 3.4, or even a fresh 2.7 with some goodies is a much better investment. A well set up Vortec 4.3 with proper gearing will net you roughly the same gas mileage as a 22re with double the power. Actually depending on how big your tires are/will be, more cubes can really help with mileage due to the added torque. My buddies 3rz gets much, much better mileage than my 22re (after most of the mentioned mods) and it stomps mine (his is stock) in the power dept.

dcg9381

LC has access to a dyno. Ask them for a dyno run.
If they don't have it, don't expect huge gains.


If you can get 10 hp out of these motors, you're doing well. With the right parts, you'll have that 10hp across the entire RPM curve...

Don't double valve spring your truck unless you're reving the heck out of it, single valve springs are more than enough on a truck that runs out of power by 4700 RPM. Save the double springs for forced induction or high RPM motors.

If you want a lot of power, do a swap... Otherwise just expect a reasonable change in drivabliity and a little more pep. It's not a V8 and bolt-ons aren't going to make huge power gains.

saitotiktmdog

I am assuming that since you are running 36 inch tires that you have the appropriate gears for those tires. If not I would make sure you install the right gears as this will help out more than adding those parts to your truck. I have a 22re and the first time I rebuilt the engine I put a northwest offroad tri y header, and northwest offroad cam, and a head with larger valves and ported it and I also had venom high performance injectors. I saw some power increase but not enough to make it worth the money. If I had to do it again I would have put gears in it and left the engine alone. I was only running 31 or 32 inch tires also which is not that large of a tire.

On the other hand if I hadnt made those mistakes the first time I prolly wouldn'g have the turbo set up I have now so I guess it was all worth it. Anyway if you really want to get some power out of your 22re and don't want to swap engines I would suggest a turbo set up. Otherwise you would be better off with a 3.4 or if you must some american v8 or v6.

Blackulua

I agree with the gears matching the tire size with a stock 22re.Im presently building another 22re engine which has only the later type throttle big bore and plenum,another Supra AFM made from a 84 bore with the 22re electronics swapped in.Im running DT tri-y headers and Flowmaster super 40 and 2.25 exhaust.Im gonna leave the cam,head and block stock.I already have 4:88's with 33x12.5 tires.It runs well but not as quicker as my other built-up 22re.Also the the tires and rim is much heavier.Making the 22re faster than a Tacoma motor would be possible but too expensive and I built my motor for reliability and longevity with proper maintanence.You just got to match up the whole drivetrain and engine correctly and get used to what you have on your truck.You know you cant just overtake a supercharged Tacoma with URD goodies on the freeeway.

84 yota ex-cab

The 36 in tires is on my 84. I am talking about my 89 standard cab with 31s. How much would a turbo setup cost? How much power could i expect?

saitotiktmdog

If you get crazy a turbo setup would be expensive. If you want a nice kit, but will cost you a lot of money go with the one LC engineering has. Expect to spend close to 3 grand for it though. The other route is to look for a good turbo. Garret t3 or t3/t4 hybrid and then get a manifold. I recommend the steed speed manifold. Then piece together the rest. Ask dcg9381 as well as he knows a lot about this, proabably more than I do. My manifold was $600. My turbo and first manifold was $500 Oil line kit around 45-50, blow off vavle$35, waste gate $69, intercooler $75, intercooler piping $65 and other odds and ends etc. Then I also went for stand alone which was another 2300 for the stand alone with ignition control, with wide band and new injectors and a new fuel pump. If you get it all from lc engineering expect to spend around five or six grand. I only got the sds stuff from lc and they were not too bad on price plus it includes all the brackets that you need. Ithink I have spend a little over $4000. But you don't have to go sds. dcg9831 can hook you up with megasquirt for your fuel control etc for alot less. The only other thing you will have to consider is timing retard. There are some solutions for that with msd and crane. Just do your research and make sure you know whats going on. Finally let me say that I am not an expert on this. I am just telling you what I have done and has worked for me.

Targetnut

There are two main problems with the 22R in regards to achieving more power.

First is the cylinder head. The intake "swirl" port design is very restrictive. Without major porting you are not going to get much more than a modest increase in flow. And once you get the flow through the head, you need to look at the rest of the intake tract.

Second is the displacement. Because it is only 2.4l it can only pump so much air through it at a given rpm. so if you want to make, say, 200hp then you need to turn over 7000rpm, this requires very radical cam selection which is going to hurt your overall drivability. You can over come this displacement disadvantage with forced induction, but then you start adding up a lot more money and really you would not want to go this route unless you went through the whole engine to bring it up to snuff for whatever power output you are looking for. Even more money.

I have not dynoed my truck yet, but I think I'm over 170hp/flywheel and it runs great. Although I wouldn't think my setup would be favorable for 4wheelin.

Have a look at this thread for details of my mods.

My Latest Project

dcg9381

You're right about displacement and the limitations of the flow within the head.
Even if you port, you're still dealing with the area of the flapper door on the AFM and a 55mm TB. It's simply not easy to get naturally aspirated power (big gains) out of these motors.

In regard to brining the whole engine up to snuff - these are stout little motors. Stock rotating assemblies can handle a power increase of 200-300%. The mods I'd recommend for forced induction are lower compression pistons, ARP studs, and an MLS head gasket.

sonny96795

what would be a good size engine to run in my 92 4runner? my head gaskets just blew. im just lookin to replace it i dont want that ty v6 motor in their.

Matt16

3.4L V6 (5vzfe) there's a whole forum section on this swap.

derossett7777

What would be the best way to go with cost. Its a 96 tocoma with a 2.7. Should i go with a 2.4 22re or a a 3.4 v6