YotaTech Forums  

Go Back   YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Welcome to Yotatech!
Welcome to Yotatech,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-21-2006, 06:59 AM   #1
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
CRamsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Washington, NC
Posts: 92
Question 22RE Front Main Seal Leak, Dangerous?

Hi Guys,

My Yota is getting real tired, 298,000 miles on it. The front main seal leaks pretty badly, but I want to wait a month or so and replace the 22RE altogether. Is driving with this leak for a while longer likely to cause major engine failure? I keep plenty of oil in it. It runs fine now, just need to get another couple thousand miles out of it. Whatchya think?

Thanks, CR
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!
CRamsey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2006, 07:12 AM   #2
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,769
replace it now - that seal is on the end of the oil pump & the pump then pumps the oil out & that is why they leak so bad when they do.
celica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2006, 09:18 AM   #3
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 392
Send a message via AIM to maxpower_hd
I would say it depends on whay your definition of real bad is. If you are going through like a quart a day then I would probably speed up the engine swap. If you are going through a quart a week then you should be OK keeping the level up.

I wouldn't bother replacing the seal unless you plan on rebuildin the motor. You did say you were getting a new motor anyway so the way I see it, you really don't have much to loose.
maxpower_hd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2006, 09:22 AM   #4
Contributing Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
AH64ID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Idaho
Posts: 4,653
Send a message via MSN to AH64ID
Do you have an oil pressure gauge?? Keep you oil level full, and watch the pressure...if it drops, PULL OVER!!!
__________________
-John
'05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600
2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift
Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA

Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.
AH64ID is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2006, 09:22 AM   #5
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
kyle_22r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 3,981
i was once in your position, i had a 20R with 300,000 on it and the front main finally went. one thing is, keep an eye on your oil level! that thing is gonna leak pretty profusely, albeit not as much as a rear main seal. it dumped probably a quart of oil every 500 miles.
__________________
1998 tacoma, 3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 30x9.5R15 M/Ts

past toys:
1984 4x2
1979 4x4
1991 4x4
kyle_22r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2006, 09:34 AM   #6
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
CRamsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Washington, NC
Posts: 92
I'm thinking like maxpower. It doesn't leak a quart a week yet, but does leave plenty of oil drops where I park. I just don't want it to blow up while I'm on the road.

Thanks Guys, CR

PS Oil pressure is fine and I carry a quart with me.
__________________
Washington,NC, '88 T4R, Reman. Jasper 22RE, Marlin W56B trans, SR5, 400,000+ miles and going strong.

Last edited by CRamsey; 04-21-2006 at 09:35 AM.
CRamsey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2006, 01:12 PM   #7
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
rdlsz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 1,481
Send a message via AIM to rdlsz24
As long as you keep at least a couple of quarts in it I don't think you would have to worry about it seizing up on you. I wouldn't recommend running with only two quarts for very long, but these little engines are pretty tough.

Rob
__________________
1988 Xtra Cab Pickup ('94 22RE; 4x4; 5spd)
Rancho lift w/ 33x12.5x15 tires & 5.29s
- SOLD January 2010 -
rdlsz24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2006, 06:12 PM   #8
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NH
Posts: 5
I would get it fixed real soon. I had too replace the crank because I had let mine go so long. You know were the key way goes on the crank? Well Mine was worn right down too nothing!! No place too slide a keyway into!! Plus a nice gruve was worn into the vrank from the seal I guess. My buddy who works for toyota had never seen anything like it. Sucked big time.
__________________
99 4 Runner SR5
99T4RSR5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2006, 09:42 PM   #9
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 22
I'd replace the seal. It's not hard. You might find, however, that a brand new seal won't seal. This is because the seal will wear a groove in the main pulley where it makes contact. There is a product, I think it's called a "quick sleeve" that will fix this. Also, some seals contact the shaft at a different depth, which can end up working.
SporkTek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2006, 11:22 PM   #10
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
surf4runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: so.cal
Posts: 4,476
Quote:
Originally Posted by SporkTek
I'd replace the seal. It's not hard. You might find, however, that a brand new seal won't seal. This is because the seal will wear a groove in the main pulley where it makes contact. There is a product, I think it's called a "quick sleeve" that will fix this. Also, some seals contact the shaft at a different depth, which can end up working.
its only dangerous if you slip in the leaking oil

when i replaced mine the dealer asked if i had ever been changed. when i said no he sold me one w/ a different depth from stock for that very reason. no more leaks.
the pulley bolt is its own story
__________________
sarcasm noted...and appreciated
im with the banned
Quote:
Originally Posted by fustercluck View Post
I was traumatized. I had nightmares of trained attack tupperware beef-logs chasing me all night! Don't bend over, Fuster!!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lysmachia View Post
Just pile us nekkid in an engine bay and drizzle us with gear oil and watch the fun!
surf4runner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 08:14 AM   #11
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 22
My dad's 86 2wd had it's front main seal go out twice (the first time the seal was bad, the second time, the groove got too deep). While the engine is slinging oil all over the place it's getting it on the belts and alternator. It might take a lot to hurt an alternator, but it's definately not good for it to get soaked in motor oil. Otherwise good belts wear out real quick when there's that much oil present too. You risk a lot when you compromise your belts when the fix is so easy.
SporkTek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2006, 11:13 AM   #12
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
javadoody's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: colorado
Posts: 351
you're cool as long as you don't hammer it, keep the oil full and watch the gauge. hotter it gets outside, the more care you need to take.
__________________
2003 4x4 taco, 3.4L, 5sp, 4.33 w/ ARB, 3" revtek
stolen--1994 4x4 p/u 22re


"A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in human history--with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila."--Mitch Ratliffe, "Technology Review"
javadoody is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2006, 05:06 PM   #13
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Jimmeh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montana USA
Posts: 2,276
Send a message via MSN to Jimmeh Send a message via Yahoo to Jimmeh
Quote:
Originally Posted by javadoody
you're cool as long as you don't hammer it, keep the oil full and watch the gauge. hotter it gets outside, the more care you need to take.
I guess I should probably go check my oil level and pressure then...it was 90 today, and said to be 91 tomorrow.
__________________
Jim
Montana Pictures
Myspace

1992 "Toyota" Ranger XLT 4X4 4.0 EFI Auto. Lots of mods on and to come.
1995 Dodge Ram 1500 single cab short bed 318 V8 with a 5 speed manual transmission. The big ugly bastard of a work truck.
2000 Toyota Tundra SR5 Access cab. My grandmas truck.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fustercluck View Post
LOL. Sorry, I never do anything half way. The Fustulator is nuclear powered....or if you are at 1600 Pennsylvania Ave., that is pronounced 'nukular' :hillbill:
Jimmeh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 06:02 AM   #14
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 392
Send a message via AIM to maxpower_hd
It isn't that bad of a fix but it depends on how far away from the swap you are. If you're only a month away then don't bother unless it gets really bad. If you're thinking the swap may be a year down the road then by all means fix it.

The sleave I used is called a "sleeve-n-seal" from engnbldr.com. It is the same as a speedy sleeve. It simply slides over the crank where the groove is. It was easy to install but I also did mine while the motor was out of the truck.

I like the guage idea too. I installed on of those after my shortblock rebuild. $12 at VIP.

Good luck.
maxpower_hd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2006, 07:15 PM   #15
Banned
Vendor Sales Rating: (0)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: ocala,fl
Posts: 66
i used redi sleeve from auto zone , the hardest part is making sure you dont bend the sleeve when you put it on. i hit the crank with an 800 grit sandpaper the only thing ive heard is that they will wear out your seals faster but i used one on my rear main with 5k on my engine no prob, my front seal is leaking and it happens to have not been sleeved, a new ballancer would be the only other option if you dont want to use a sleeve. ill probabally try a sleeve when i go to replace it.
subliminaltrips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:28 AM   #16
Registered User
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
CRamsey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Washington, NC
Posts: 92
Still running, 3,000mi later

Hey Guys,

I started this thread a few weeks ago and have done a lot of driving since, 3,000 miles worth. No major problems yet. Still pretty messy though.
__________________
Washington,NC, '88 T4R, Reman. Jasper 22RE, Marlin W56B trans, SR5, 400,000+ miles and going strong.
CRamsey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 09:28 AM
Yotatech
4WD Truck




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
22re, amount, driving, fix, front, leak, leaking, main, manual, rear, redi, redisleeve, seal, sleeve, stop, toyota, transmission

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Main Seal Leak? parshal Pre 84 Trucks 1 03-19-2007 04:22 PM
Manual Transmission Front Seal Leak. Will Leak Stop Work? JNetTrecker 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 3 08-16-2006 05:16 AM
Click fixed - Now Rear main seal leak Yosemite Stars 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 4 06-27-2006 08:29 PM
22RE rear main seal InternetRoadkill General Vehicle Related Topics (Non Year Related) 1 01-11-2006 11:16 AM
3VZ-E Front Main Seal Corvin 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 3 09-10-2004 10:35 AM


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:30 PM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.