22re exhaust manifold leak

Jay351 · 12-06-2009, 07:21 PM

Got a nasty exhaust leak from the manifold. Started today.

im hoping this is the result of a missing bolt/stud.

The most inner, lowest (towards the cab) stud/bolt seems to be gone. There is just a hole.

So is it a stud, or a bolt?

I know there is a mix of studs and bolts holding the manifold on, but I don't know what goes here.

I have no idea how the hell it loosened off and rattled all the way out! My girlfriend said she heard a loud rattling sound and then all of a sudden the leak started. Im assuming the rattling was the bolt/stud falling out and hitting the exhaust pipe.

A few other nuts/bolts on the manifold were pretty loose so I snugged them up and the leak got a little better..

What are my chances that if I put in a new stud/bolt it will be fine, and I don't have to do the actual manifold/head gasket.. I really don't want to! Its way to cold right now

Have already had to drill and helicoil the manifold/exhaust y pipe because it was leaking like a sob.

so yeah, if its a bolt please let me know what size it is. If its a stud i know the size is 10mmx1.25

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Jay351 · 12-06-2009, 07:56 PM

Shameless bump to the top!

flyingbrass · 12-06-2009, 08:38 PM

I'm not the best person to answer this, but since you're so anxious I'll throw in my $.02.

The exhaust manfold on a 22R uses 4 studs in the head on top and 4 at the bottom (top and bottom studs are different Toyota part numbers). The only bolts used hold on the EGR air tube and the aluminum heat shield. RE manifolds should be the same or very similar.

MaK92-4RnR · 12-06-2009, 08:47 PM

haha funny... I was at pick n pull today and a guy I bumped into was searching for a 22re manifold because his had a leak too. same place you're saying yours is

Nogarage · 12-06-2009, 08:55 PM

Yeah, they're all studs. I just replaced all of mine (1994 22RE) a month ago as three of the eight were loose and their holes would not grip the threads. Got new set from Toyota and a Helicoil set on ebay, and redid them all. I used high temp thread lock for install (also brand new manifold gasket) and anti-seize for nuts (bought new nuts through Toyota - about $2.25 each!). After installing and driving about sixty miles I re-torqued them all.

Before I tackled this I read every post on YT I could find on doing this. Apparently, according to a few posters, some good hardware stores carry the same size studs and they worked just fine. Yes it's getting cold outside and you might try fitting the one hole with a stud it will grip, maybe setting it in with threadlock (which has to heated about 500 degrees when you go about re-doing it correctly when spring rolls around...).

rustypigeon · 12-06-2009, 09:01 PM

I just fixed my manifold leak a couple months ago. Leaking at the #4 exhaust. My manifold was warped so i got it resurfaced before putting a new gasket on.

If yours is leaking there is a good chance your manifold is warped. You can put a new stud and bolt on to see if the leak stops but be very careful not to strip the threads in the head. The stock studs are short and don't engage enough threads to hold a lot of torque.

flyingbrass · 12-06-2009, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nogarage

Yeah, they're all studs. I just replaced all of mine (1994 22RE) a month ago as three of the eight were loose and their holes would not grip the threads. Got new set from Toyota and a Helicoil set on ebay, and redid them all. I used high temp thread lock for install (also brand new manifold gasket) and anti-seize for nuts (bought new nuts through Toyota - about $2.25 each!).

Ouch. If you can spare a few days and need some other things to help offset shipping cost, buy online. Those nuts (90179-10052) were $.84 each at 1sttoyotaparts. Upper studs (90116-10067) were $.95 each, lower (90116-10064) $.72. They charge $9.95 minimum or 10% of the order cost for shipping. Other sellers may be better for small orders.

Look up part numbers at http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html, which thankfully is now back online after being down for several days.

Quote:

Before I tackled this I read every post on YT I could find on doing this. Apparently, according to a few posters, some good hardware stores carry the same size studs and they worked just fine. Yes it's getting cold outside and you might try fitting the one hole with a stud it will grip, maybe setting it in with threadlock (which has to heated about 500 degrees when you go about re-doing it correctly when spring rolls around...).

How are these studs supposed to be installed in good, fresh holes? I'm using a new head. What approximate torque? Use thread locker or not?

My exhaust manifold didn't leak, but the shop said it was .008" out, so they trued it. IIRC, the book says .003" is the max warpage allowed.

Jay351 · 12-06-2009, 10:04 PM

Ahh, okay so it is a stud.

I will go order (or perhaps they will have it in stock) a stud and nut tomorrow.

Im hoping that it just loosened off and fell out. I recently fixed the bellhousing clamp. One bolt was busted and one was missing, so I had to find a new bolt.

Heres hoping the threads are fine and I dont have to do anything else.

If we had the $$ I would be buying a header!

Nogarage · 12-07-2009, 07:54 AM

"How are these studs supposed to be installed in good, fresh holes? I'm using a new head. What approximate torque? Use thread locker or not?" - Flyingbrass

I was referring to half-a$$ing the repair if one wants to avoid working with cold metal on a cold day. But even then, and even using threadlock, you'd need some good threads to work with. For FRESH holes, for a NEW head, from what I found out, I would only install exact matching studs. I got mine from the dealer because i was real antsy to get her done and didn't want any problems. (I'm still learning never to rush ANY of this kind of work, even on a warm comfy day or in a totally equiped garage...). And get someone to measure the surface of the manifold regarding warpage.

Approximate torque is 33 ft/lb, and thread lock is highly recommended.
Re-torquing after a hundred miles is also recommended. Over tightening is not.

Good wishes to anyone doing this. I hope this helps.

crafthorse · 12-07-2009, 11:55 AM

I had a few stripped holes in my head, and was missing a stud in the same place. I drilles the holes out, taped them to 7/16 and bough all bolts in grade 2 and reinstalled manifold with new gasket and bolts. Worked like a charm!

Jay351 · 12-07-2009, 01:29 PM

well I got a stud and nut from the dealer.. lets hope its just this easy...

91_TOYOTA_4x4 · 12-07-2009, 03:13 PM

i have an exhaust leak between my manifold and down pipe, maybe its B.C. that makes these things happen lol. jay im going to kill my yota, so tired of my 22re, i needs an ext cab like yours with a 3.4 before i drive this thing off a cliff lol.

Gnarly4X · 12-07-2009, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nogarage

"...Approximate torque is 33 ft/lb, and thread lock is highly recommended. Re-torquing after a hundred miles is also recommended. Over tightening is not.

I'd be really careful about overtorquing the studs in the head, especially in one that is NOT new or been retapped. If you use loctite, then DO NOT retorque the studs. I would not torque to 33 lbs.

I would "poop-can" the stock locking nuts and go with a split lock washer and grade 5 or grade 8 header hex nut. The crimp style factory nuts are not good because they tend to clamp up on the stud while scoring the threads, and twisting the stud in the head. You will need to check and recheck the hex nuts and lock washer option until you are satisified they are holding tight.

That's just my worthless opinion.

gNARLs.

Jay351 · 12-07-2009, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91_TOYOTA_4x4

i have an exhaust leak between my manifold and down pipe, maybe its B.C. that makes these things happen lol. jay im going to kill my yota, so tired of my 22re, i needs an ext cab like yours with a 3.4 before i drive this thing off a cliff lol.

Oh that place is so common! One of the bolts there was missing and the other was crossthreaded. Had to drill it out and heli-coil it! It sucked pretty bad.

I think its time for a damn header...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gnarly4X

I'd be really careful about overtorquing the studs in the head, especially in one that is NOT new or been retapped. If you use loctite, then DO NOT retorque the studs. I would not torque to 33 lbs.

I would "poop-can" the stock locking nuts and go with a split lock washer and grade 5 or grade 8 header hex nut. The crimp style factory nuts are not good because they tend to clamp up on the stud while scoring the threads, and twisting the stud in the head. You will need to check and recheck the hex nuts and lock washer option until you are satisified they are holding tight.

That's just my worthless opinion.

gNARLs.

Well I got the stock stud and nut from the dealer (he didnt charge me) and put it in today.

Just threaded it in and snugged it down. It really felt like it was starting to let go so I didnt want to really get any torque on it.

I have a feeling the lost stud was like this for the 3 years that my girlfriend has had this truck.

In anycase, I got the stud+nut in, not that tight but it stopped the leak.

The real test is when she drives it back home tonight. An hour drive!

fingers crossed!!

Stuwy123 · 12-07-2009, 05:33 PM

Mine went out driving home one evening. I had to drive around sounding like a most sunfire's and cavaliers for a couple days.
Mine had been leaking for over a year (since I bought the truck), I knew about it when I bought my truck. Finally lost another stud and it sounded like a whoopy cushion going down the road.
I got a new gasket and new studs/nuts.
Remember, longer studs go up top for the egr tube. I found this one out the hard way. It was a pain since I didn't had a stud remover/installer, I was doing the double nut trick. Plus I figured it out on the last stud. D'oh!!!

91_TOYOTA_4x4 · 12-07-2009, 10:29 PM

haha a header is on my list too

. jay we need to go wheeling some time man. i dont know much wheeling around here except stave and stave is all mud lol and bigger trucks just make big trenches that suck for a stock yota haha. plus i gotta see your truck, i feaking love ext cabs haha

Gnarly4X · 12-08-2009, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay351

Just threaded it in and snugged it down. It really felt like it was starting to let go so I didnt want to really get any torque on it.

...
In anycase, I got the stud+nut in, not that tight but it stopped the leak.

The real test is when she drives it back home tonight. An hour drive!

fingers crossed!!

You should check it every day until it's tight.

gNARLS.

Jay351 · 12-08-2009, 03:58 PM

I checked it again this morning after the 100km drive back last night. I snugged it a little more, but it felt just as tight as it was yesterday.

I have a feeling this has been like this for awhile.. Perhaps when they did the motor on it just before we got it. They didnt do the best job!

Jay351 · 12-08-2009, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91_TOYOTA_4x4

haha a header is on my list too

. jay we need to go wheeling some time man. i dont know much wheeling around here except stave and stave is all mud lol and bigger trucks just make big trenches that suck for a stock yota haha. plus i gotta see your truck, i feaking love ext cabs haha

Haha, for sure!

unfortunatly my truck is in no shape to go wheeling

Needs most of the front end parts replaced... Sucks!

And many other things...

Well meet up for sure sometime!

camo31"10.50" · 12-08-2009, 04:08 PM

so like...whos truck is this Jay...yours is V6??? lmao..

and i had the EXACT SAME STUD back out and cause a leak on 3 different trucks..my '80 20R..my '86 22R (twice....) and my buddies '86 22RE(fixed his for good though...LOTS of Loctite lmao)

91_TOYOTA_4x4 · 12-08-2009, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay351

Haha, for sure!

unfortunatly my truck is in no shape to go wheeling

Needs most of the front end parts replaced... Sucks!

And many other things...

Well meet up for sure sometime!

cool cool.

whats goin on with your truck? you mean susp or body parts?
if you talking cv's and susp then i feal your pain, i had to replace my right knucle, both cv's and a bunch of steering parts, couple ball joints, rebuild power steering. never ending lmao. all i can say is i cant wait to get a sfa under her haha

get her fixed buddy

shanebuick · 12-08-2009, 04:42 PM

haha thats sweet i grew up in maple ridge, used to spend alot of time out at stave lake

91_TOYOTA_4x4 · 12-08-2009, 04:50 PM

o really cool. stave is alright but stock trucks just get bottomed out in the mud ruts lol. you get tired of getting pulled out because your sitting on you frame haha. i need a lift and lockers then it would a hella time. crapy thing was first time i went to stave i was apperently in the worst spot and i was doing ok untill the jeep guy told me i was in the mud were trucks with 38 were digging lol fun none the less. thread jack over

Jay351 · 12-08-2009, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91_TOYOTA_4x4

cool cool.

whats goin on with your truck? you mean susp or body parts?
if you talking cv's and susp then i feal your pain, i had to replace my right knucle, both cv's and a bunch of steering parts, couple ball joints, rebuild power steering. never ending lmao. all i can say is i cant wait to get a sfa under her haha

get her fixed buddy

Well, all four balljoints need to be replaced. The pitman arm has tons of play, the idler arm is starting to go, and I can't find any replacement bushings that fit this one).

The inner tie rod ends are pooched, the grease fittings got smashed into the frame and it punched out the threads. The outers got ripped and are toast. Sucks I replaced both tie rod assemblys when I did my BJ spacers..

I need to repack my wheel bearings and lube the spindle bearings.

Oh and the control arm bushings are starting to show their age, I wont do those for awhile tho!

I also need to install my Soneran steel IFS brace..

Haha, sweet, sfa is fun!

Quote:

Originally Posted by shanebuick

haha thats sweet i grew up in maple ridge, used to spend alot of time out at stave lake

So much crazy crap goes on there... its kinda funny

91_TOYOTA_4x4 · 12-08-2009, 05:09 PM

crap lol tons of stuff to do. sounds like me a year ago lol. just get a sfa and get rid of that ifs lol. SAS might be a better route than fixing all that stuff then wanting sas later on? you should have seen my knuckle, the cv shaft could move side to side inside the spindle like 1/4 inch each way lmao. so worn out. i was driving and i would get a big whine and vibration and would have to jerk the steering to the right to get it to stop for anothrr km haha.

weird stuff happens at stave when it gets dark lol, cars burn, people get drunk and high and do some weird stuff lol

12-06-2009, 07:56 PM	#2 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 9,081	Shameless bump to the top! __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 255k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + flow 40 \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's and 700ffs \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\| E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

12-06-2009, 08:38 PM	#3 (permalink)
flyingbrass Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Arizona Posts: 608	I'm not the best person to answer this, but since you're so anxious I'll throw in my $.02. The exhaust manfold on a 22R uses 4 studs in the head on top and 4 at the bottom (top and bottom studs are different Toyota part numbers). The only bolts used hold on the EGR air tube and the aluminum heat shield. RE manifolds should be the same or very similar. __________________ 1986 22R 4X4 pickup. Rebuilt the engine.

12-06-2009, 08:55 PM	#5 (permalink)
Nogarage Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: North Jersey/New York Posts: 173	Yeah, they're all studs. I just replaced all of mine (1994 22RE) a month ago as three of the eight were loose and their holes would not grip the threads. Got new set from Toyota and a Helicoil set on ebay, and redid them all. I used high temp thread lock for install (also brand new manifold gasket) and anti-seize for nuts (bought new nuts through Toyota - about $2.25 each!). After installing and driving about sixty miles I re-torqued them all. Before I tackled this I read every post on YT I could find on doing this. Apparently, according to a few posters, some good hardware stores carry the same size studs and they worked just fine. Yes it's getting cold outside and you might try fitting the one hole with a stud it will grip, maybe setting it in with threadlock (which has to heated about 500 degrees when you go about re-doing it correctly when spring rolls around...). __________________ 1994 Toyota Pickup 4WD Reg Cab 22RE 5spd Never ending project = FUN.

12-06-2009, 10:04 PM	#8 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 9,081	Ahh, okay so it is a stud. I will go order (or perhaps they will have it in stock) a stud and nut tomorrow. Im hoping that it just loosened off and fell out. I recently fixed the bellhousing clamp. One bolt was busted and one was missing, so I had to find a new bolt. Heres hoping the threads are fine and I dont have to do anything else. If we had the $$ I would be buying a header! __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 255k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + flow 40 \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's and 700ffs \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\| E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

12-07-2009, 07:54 AM	#9 (permalink)
Nogarage Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: North Jersey/New York Posts: 173	"How are these studs supposed to be installed in good, fresh holes? I'm using a new head. What approximate torque? Use thread locker or not?" - Flyingbrass I was referring to half-a$$ing the repair if one wants to avoid working with cold metal on a cold day. But even then, and even using threadlock, you'd need some good threads to work with. For FRESH holes, for a NEW head, from what I found out, I would only install exact matching studs. I got mine from the dealer because i was real antsy to get her done and didn't want any problems. (I'm still learning never to rush ANY of this kind of work, even on a warm comfy day or in a totally equiped garage...). And get someone to measure the surface of the manifold regarding warpage. Approximate torque is 33 ft/lb, and thread lock is highly recommended. Re-torquing after a hundred miles is also recommended. Over tightening is not. Good wishes to anyone doing this. I hope this helps. __________________ 1994 Toyota Pickup 4WD Reg Cab 22RE 5spd Never ending project = FUN.

12-06-2009, 09:01 PM	#6 (permalink)
rustypigeon Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Lancaster, PA Posts: 185	I just fixed my manifold leak a couple months ago. Leaking at the #4 exhaust. My manifold was warped so i got it resurfaced before putting a new gasket on. If yours is leaking there is a good chance your manifold is warped. You can put a new stud and bolt on to see if the leak stops but be very careful not to strip the threads in the head. The stock studs are short and don't engage enough threads to hold a lot of torque.

12-07-2009, 11:55 AM	#10 (permalink)
crafthorse Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Pineland S.C./ Scott Depot W.V. Posts: 189	I had a few stripped holes in my head, and was missing a stud in the same place. I drilles the holes out, taped them to 7/16 and bough all bolts in grade 2 and reinstalled manifold with new gasket and bolts. Worked like a charm!

12-07-2009, 01:29 PM	#11 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 9,081	well I got a stud and nut from the dealer.. lets hope its just this easy... __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 255k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + flow 40 \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's and 700ffs \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\| E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

12-07-2009, 03:13 PM	#12 (permalink)
91_TOYOTA_4x4 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,100	i have an exhaust leak between my manifold and down pipe, maybe its B.C. that makes these things happen lol. jay im going to kill my yota, so tired of my 22re, i needs an ext cab like yours with a 3.4 before i drive this thing off a cliff lol. __________________ 91 std cab sr5,4wd, 22re, 5spd, 31" Dick Cepek mud country's, 415k km's, header, cherrybomb. FORSALE future mods- 35" km2's, BJ spacers, rear 6" shackles, aussie locker, sliders, 4.88's. future Toyota's- MK3 supra turbo, 2nd gen 4runner, 3rd gen extended cab.

12-07-2009, 05:33 PM	#15 (permalink)
Stuwy123 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 349	Mine went out driving home one evening. I had to drive around sounding like a most sunfire's and cavaliers for a couple days. Mine had been leaking for over a year (since I bought the truck), I knew about it when I bought my truck. Finally lost another stud and it sounded like a whoopy cushion going down the road. I got a new gasket and new studs/nuts. Remember, longer studs go up top for the egr tube. I found this one out the hard way. It was a pain since I didn't had a stud remover/installer, I was doing the double nut trick. Plus I figured it out on the last stud. D'oh!!! __________________ Canada Toyota 4WD Association http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2665/...e4f0d0bc_o.jpg Join Us

12-07-2009, 10:29 PM	#16 (permalink)
91_TOYOTA_4x4 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,100	haha a header is on my list too . jay we need to go wheeling some time man. i dont know much wheeling around here except stave and stave is all mud lol and bigger trucks just make big trenches that suck for a stock yota haha. plus i gotta see your truck, i feaking love ext cabs haha __________________ 91 std cab sr5,4wd, 22re, 5spd, 31" Dick Cepek mud country's, 415k km's, header, cherrybomb. FORSALE future mods- 35" km2's, BJ spacers, rear 6" shackles, aussie locker, sliders, 4.88's. future Toyota's- MK3 supra turbo, 2nd gen 4runner, 3rd gen extended cab.

12-08-2009, 03:58 PM	#18 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 9,081	I checked it again this morning after the 100km drive back last night. I snugged it a little more, but it felt just as tight as it was yesterday. I have a feeling this has been like this for awhile.. Perhaps when they did the motor on it just before we got it. They didnt do the best job! __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 255k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + flow 40 \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's and 700ffs \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\| E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

12-08-2009, 04:08 PM	#20 (permalink)
camo31"10.50" Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Vian, OK Posts: 3,921	so like...whos truck is this Jay...yours is V6??? lmao.. and i had the EXACT SAME STUD back out and cause a leak on 3 different trucks..my '80 20R..my '86 22R (twice....) and my buddies '86 22RE(fixed his for good though...LOTS of Loctite lmao) __________________ FOR SALE 1986 Ext. Cab 4x4, rebuilt 22R, 5spd, 31x10.50 X-Terrains FOR SALE 1992 SR5 4runner V6, 5 speed, 4in. trail-master lift, 33x12.50 BFG muds, 4.56 gears!!! and an IMMACULATE interior..yes..you should be jealous "Its still a toyota man.. Dont deprive it of its capabilities.." "If you can read english, Thank a teacher...If you can speak it, Thank a soldier!!" Kelli Ruark-2009

12-08-2009, 04:42 PM	#22 (permalink)
shanebuick Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Vernon, BC Canada Posts: 5	haha thats sweet i grew up in maple ridge, used to spend alot of time out at stave lake

12-08-2009, 04:50 PM	#23 (permalink)
91_TOYOTA_4x4 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,100	o really cool. stave is alright but stock trucks just get bottomed out in the mud ruts lol. you get tired of getting pulled out because your sitting on you frame haha. i need a lift and lockers then it would a hella time. crapy thing was first time i went to stave i was apperently in the worst spot and i was doing ok untill the jeep guy told me i was in the mud were trucks with 38 were digging lol fun none the less. thread jack over __________________ 91 std cab sr5,4wd, 22re, 5spd, 31" Dick Cepek mud country's, 415k km's, header, cherrybomb. FORSALE future mods- 35" km2's, BJ spacers, rear 6" shackles, aussie locker, sliders, 4.88's. future Toyota's- MK3 supra turbo, 2nd gen 4runner, 3rd gen extended cab.

12-08-2009, 05:09 PM	#25 (permalink)
91_TOYOTA_4x4 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,100	crap lol tons of stuff to do. sounds like me a year ago lol. just get a sfa and get rid of that ifs lol. SAS might be a better route than fixing all that stuff then wanting sas later on? you should have seen my knuckle, the cv shaft could move side to side inside the spindle like 1/4 inch each way lmao. so worn out. i was driving and i would get a big whine and vibration and would have to jerk the steering to the right to get it to stop for anothrr km haha. weird stuff happens at stave when it gets dark lol, cars burn, people get drunk and high and do some weird stuff lol __________________ 91 std cab sr5,4wd, 22re, 5spd, 31" Dick Cepek mud country's, 415k km's, header, cherrybomb. FORSALE future mods- 35" km2's, BJ spacers, rear 6" shackles, aussie locker, sliders, 4.88's. future Toyota's- MK3 supra turbo, 2nd gen 4runner, 3rd gen extended cab.

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