22RE Exhaust help
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22RE Exhaust help
OK whats next? Just kidding. I have the next three days to put this stuff on my truck. I have never worked on a Toyota 22RE or any Toyota for that matter, so I will be asking lots of "stupid" questions. I'm worried the exhaust manifold will be a chore to take off, with 210,000 miles and coming from Maryland (rust, seized bolts). Any suggestions on loosening the bolts? Knowing my luck I'll break one. Then what? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Use some penetrating oil. Let it soak in for a few minutes, then spray it again. I use a ball pein hammer set on a bolt, then hit the ball pein hammer a couple times with a 2lb hammer to loosen it up a bit. If it's still locked, use a breakbar. Shouldn't be too hard, it's just 10 bolts. Though the right hand side ones can be a little difficult for lack of space...
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Soak them real good. Start soaking them as far in advance to your start as possible.
If you break one hopefully it will be with enough showing to get a double nut on it and get it removed. If not an easy out and a steady hand will be your friend.
What type of gasket did your header come with?
I have had headers on quite a few vehicles.
Sometimes there is a trick to get them things to not leak.
What i generally do is :
soak the gasket in water for a while to get it puffy.
install the gasket and header, tighten all the bolts down.
Start the motor up and get it up to operating temp.
Re tighten the bolts, and be careful as you probably already know things will be hot.
Let it cool down say a few hours or more , to the point you can touch things again.
Tighten the bolts one last time.
The thicker gasket usually conforms to the header and head better this way and slows down that nasty header leak.
The tighten cold hot cold is as we know metal expands when hot and shrinks when cold.
I use a standard metal exhaust gasket on my 83, and tighten like i stated, works good for me.
Make sure you check the bolts periodically they will loosen up on you, check em when you do your oil changes.
Or ARP has header bolt lock kits to stop them from backing out.
Good luck.
If you break one hopefully it will be with enough showing to get a double nut on it and get it removed. If not an easy out and a steady hand will be your friend.
What type of gasket did your header come with?
I have had headers on quite a few vehicles.
Sometimes there is a trick to get them things to not leak.
What i generally do is :
soak the gasket in water for a while to get it puffy.
install the gasket and header, tighten all the bolts down.
Start the motor up and get it up to operating temp.
Re tighten the bolts, and be careful as you probably already know things will be hot.
Let it cool down say a few hours or more , to the point you can touch things again.
Tighten the bolts one last time.
The thicker gasket usually conforms to the header and head better this way and slows down that nasty header leak.
The tighten cold hot cold is as we know metal expands when hot and shrinks when cold.
I use a standard metal exhaust gasket on my 83, and tighten like i stated, works good for me.
Make sure you check the bolts periodically they will loosen up on you, check em when you do your oil changes.
Or ARP has header bolt lock kits to stop them from backing out.
Good luck.
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Thanks reggie 00. The gasket is both metal and regular gasket material. It's from the LCE header kit. I have the ARP header bolts on my Mustang and they work great. Hadn't thought about putting them on the Yota. Thanks again.
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OK off to the exhaust shop in the morning. Everything went well, I broke 1 bolt. bought a replacement from the hardware store. But it, or the original doesn't fit in the middle hole of the first 2 pictures. The other 2 are holding the header. So do I really need the the ones in the middle? The converter didn't line up as you can see in picture 3, thats why its off to the exhaust shop. Yippee Skippee. Can't wait to hear it!!
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Well $140.00 at the muffler shop and it's done. They cut the flange off the header pipe so it would fit the universal converter. But it's alright I guess. So do I need the center bolts I mentioned in the last post? Guess I will just call LC Engineering to get size and tread count for the hole. Thanks everyone for your helpfulness. Now for the intake side. Guess I'll have to change my sig now.
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Did that but it didn't fit. Neither did the original. I called LCE and got the size and tread count. The bolts I have should have worked. So I took the air injection manifold off and threaded the bolts to see it they would fit. Thought maybe the gasket was getting in the way. Well with some finesse they fit. I guess some of the ceramic coating was on the treads. Bolted the air injection manifold on, and the old and new bolt. Then my OCD kicked in. So I went and got a new bolt to match the other new bolt. Waiting for it to cool so I can change it.
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#20
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had a lce header and a custom exhaust with a flowmaster 40 when i had my 22re sounded awesome i soaked the bolts a few days ahead of time and got a new stud kit from Lce everything fit great
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