Gokumono

Hey, I am about to rebuild a 22RE engine for the second time. The first my uncle and I screwed up by not plastigauging (however its spelled) the rod bearings. And used assembly lube, and he found out, I guess you should use ATF on small engines like this?

Anyway, we just got done rebuilding this engine less then a month ago probably, and it needs to be done because it has a slight knock, and really knocks for a sec at startup.
He has gotten a new crank, with bearing that have been plastigauged way beyond what they need to be i guess, and he should hopefully already have the rebuild kit because we plan to do this in one weekend. This weekend.

Any tips are appreciated. Hate the thought of doing this again, but DEFINITELY don't want to have to do it again after.

Thanks.

Lumpy

Take your time and mark everything...I used engine lube when I swapped cams and it was fine. A lot of folks use it and will work well. While in there I'd change cams as well. Check out engnbldr.com for parts. they'll answer all your questions as well. good folks they are.

Gokumono

I will talk to him about that. I doubt we will change cams, because we have to have this done by sunday. Well.... Monday afternoon it has to be completely drivable, as I have class Monday evening.

Thanks.

This is a 94 Pickup, 5 speed btw. And it is my Uncle's but pretty much mine till we get my 4Runner back up and runnin.

Lumpy

O ok I see now.

LITLRED

IMO your timeframe is unrealistic. But if you must, follow the FSM. Make sure your head bolt holes are tapped and clean. Or better yet use ARB studs.

iamsuperbleeder

Erik Beeman

Ha Ha, LITLRED reminds me of an old bong that I named LITTLE RED.


On a serious note, just take you're time. Don't try and have it done by Sunday, because it won't happen, and you will end up rushing things. It took me about 2 full weeks, all day everyday to get my motor done, and it's been a week and a half of tuning AFTER it was put back in the truck and it's still not perfect. You need alot of time and a decent amount of money to build a motor PROPERLY, and once again, just take your time.

Here is a good link that will tell you EVERYTHING that you need.
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/index.html

Erik Beeman

I'm sure he meant ARP.

iamsuperbleeder

you said that right...

my rebuild took me every afternoon of 3 months to finish, and I STILL ended up with a head gasket leak spitting antifreeze out of the driver's side

Karlton

I used assembly lube on all my bearings and everything went fine. My machinist recommended I use 50-weight motor oil during assembly, but said that assembly lube is also fine to use. He suggested I get a coffee can, pour some 50w oil in it, then dip my pistons in the oil and then compress the rings and install them.
Good luck!

kornhuskerwizard

Im having the machine shop doing my bottom end and putting a engnbldr head. My 22r now is having a slight rod knock issue but as long as theres oil and coolant i drive it 500mi a week to work and back.

Gokumono

The time frame could be partially unrealistic... But we plan to sure give it hell... at least I do.... And I found out today that the crank was on back order, so we wont have for a few days, which puts this off for a couple weeks....
I am still looking for tips for rebuilding or whatever other tips you have about all this. Keep em coming because I am reading and trying to make sure I know what seems to be the best way.

Thanks.

Gokumono

Any more tips?

I know there has to be alot more advise/tips for how many people are here, and how many have redone an engine and had problems, or know of ways to avoid problems.

btw, the engine rebuild has been put off till probably the wed before labor day, and through that monday. Maybe later, depending on what is going on that weekend....

Karlton

You're working on a 2wd, right? Are you pulling the whole motor and transmission? I did, it was easy to do, and I set my transmission on a 4-wheel dolly and when I was ready to bolt it to the motor I had the motor on the hoist and simply wheeled the transmission right up to it and there was no monkeying around.



I would suggest you take inventory of all your replacement parts and try to be sure you've got everything you need ahead of time. Try to be sure the parts are correct. You don't want to go to install your main bearing set only to find out you were sold the wrong set ... that happened to me ... set me back a week.

Factory service manual said to install the EGR with new gasket ...... then the next step was install intake manifold with new gasket .... the EGR and intake manifold use the same gasket ... the sequence in the FSM was wrong. Thanks, Yotatech, for straightening me out on that one.

My gasket set did not include the gaskets for the air pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold to the PAIR valve. I think that's a dealer only item.

My gasket kit included some O-rings for the injectors, but I also needed grommets on both ends, as the original ones were old dry and disintegrating.

Neither any of my local parts stores or local dealer had any new washers to use with my fuel line banjo bolts. They are a very odd size. Best to get them new ... but I successfully re-used mine ... no leaks yet.

Keep plenty of cold beer on hand. It fortifies the mind and soothes scraped knuckles.

Good luck.

Gokumono

Thanks Karlton. Ill talk to him about pulling the tranny with it. See what he thinks... Would help with all that "monkeying around" putting the tranny to engine bolts in... which of course I was the one having to do that last time..... :/
Idk about the last part, with the cold beer. Im 19 and hate the taste a beer, my uncle in his late 30s and doesn't drink that much. Might have to figure something else out for that. lol.

O, and it is 2WD and the truck in the background of that picture, looks exactly like the truck we workin on. Same color too. lol. Except the one we workin on has dents and that one looks clean, and it has, i think its, American Racing, rims.
Its also a manual 5-speed.

Karlton

Since you've had the motor out already and have experience unbolting and bolting the transmission from under the truck, you might want to go that route again. If you DO decide to pull the trans be sure to have a jug of gear oil on hand because most of it will spill out of the trans when you pull out the driveshaft and when the trans tilts on its way out.

There's four bolts at the rear of the driveshaft and out it comes, four screws from inside the cab and out comes your gear shifter, I think six bolts for the transmission mount, and 4 large bolts for a frame crossmember. Being from the midwest you may find that many of these bolts will be rusty ... I would hate for you to snap a head off one while trying to remove them .... if you go this route consider soaking them ahead of time with PB Blaster or equivalent.

As for the beer ... I rarely drink myself, but if there were ever an occasion, one is when pulling a motor, the other is to celebrate once you get it back in and running!

Gokumono

Lol. Now I could understand that.
Now wheres the Mikes hard?.... lol. I wouldn't drink that... just for umm... display?

ANYWAY, back on topic.
Probably wont pull the tranny then... thought it might be easier... and have broken enough bolts as it is... dont want to chance all that..

Still looking for any tips from anyone. Seen some ideas so far..

Outsane

You could always find a short block for cheap on craigslist.. rebuild that then all you have to do is a swap..

Erik Beeman

Just pull the motor from the transmission. It's 4 17mm (I think thats the size) bolts, then two 14mm bolts for the backing plate, and boom, you're done. Pulling it out is the easy part, and putting it back in is not really a problem either. Me and two buddies had it back in and all bolted up in about 30 minutes, and motor was in and wired up, vacuum lines, exhaust, intake, and drivable in about 2 hours.

Like I said before, just take your time on everything. ALWAYS OVER ESTIMATE the time you need, and always PLAN ON HAVING the wrong parts or not enough parts. Trust me, it WILL happen. Even if it comes down to a $20 part here, $5 there...you will find that you always have a set back, so just plan on it, that way when it happens, it's not a killer. And if it doesn't happen, well then you're in good hands, huh?

Like mentioned before, replace everything you can while you have it out. There really is no reason to skimp on the little things that cost $.30..replace the fuel filter while in there, dissasemble the throttle body and clean it out, replace the o-ring on the injectors, get new banjo fittings for fuel bolts, just clean out the fuel hard lines, flush radiator if it needs it. Oh and if you DO end up painting the block, make sure you sand the paint off where the ground bolts go to the block. On that note, make sure all ground surfaces are CLEAN, a dirty ground can cause a nasty problem that you'll never think about.

Just have fun with it. The 22RE is a very, very basic engine and is a great motor to learn and practice on. All motors are different, but in reality, they all have the same pistons going up and down up and down, crank turning and valves opening. I have TONS of pictures of during my rebuild, of miscellaneous things to obvious things, let me know if you need any picture of anything and I, along with others on this site, will be glad to help you out. There are alot of smart people around here.

Gokumono

Thanks Erik, have already replaced couple those things within the last 2 weeks... the fuel filter twice (before discovering it was pump/strainer problem), and the o-rings today and yesterday, only needed to replace 1 yesterday, bc it decided start pouring out fuel... basically bolts on fuel rail poped out, so it moved, and blew a o-ring out. Anyway, replaced all 4 and then found out 1 was nicked, that i replaced, and didn't need to.... so reused old one that looked fine.

Anyway, anyone else that has advise, feel free to chip in. Looking for anything. Like how much ive gotten, but could always use more and different opinions.