iamsuperbleeder

So I just checked everything under the hood after yesterday's heater core replacement to make sure none of my hoses were leaking. All is well with the cooling system; no leaks

So I decide to, while I'm under the hood, top off the washer fluid, check the PS fluid, and then I go to check the oil...



Where did it go!!! There wasn't even a HINT of oil on the dip stick!!!

So I'm thinking, okay, maybe the motor's still kinda breaking in and burning a little; afterall, it's not leaking a drop, at all.

I pop the top on a quart of oil, and pour it in; the whole thing... check the dip stick...

WTH!!!

STILL NOTHING!!!


So after I , I popped the top on ANOTHER quart, and poured the whole thing in... check the dip stick...

at least now it's TOUCHING THE TIP OF THE DIP STICK...

SO, I pop the top off ANOTHER quart of oil (in case you're not keeping count, that's 2 full quarts already, and now I'm about to add more...). Takes about half of that quart, and it's right where it needs to be.

I fire it up, and, much to my surprise, the cold-start 2 second knock that I've been hearing for the past week has gone away I thought it was just maybe becuase it was due for an oil change and the oil has thinned out; it's right at about 2800 miles on the last change.




It's just really odd, because it's not smoking, I can't smell, so it's just odd that if could burn THAT MUCH oil without an indication of it, and this is within probably 2000 miles (I haven't checked it in a while... I know, I'm a slacker...)




Any thoughts guys?

Junkers88

I'm thinking you got lucky in that you didn't pop a new engine.

Other than that I have no idea. Is it normal for a new engine to use a lot of oil trying to get the rings to seat? Oh and on that note how did you seat them? I've always been told to fire up the engine, get it to operating temp (and good oil pressure) and then drive it like you stole it.

iamsuperbleeder

that's precisely what I did; I fired it up, roughly set the timing, stopped a coolant leak , and then let it warm up at about 2000 RPMs, and once it warmed up, I took a back road down the the gas station, all the while doing several second gear full throttles to about 4000-4500 RPMs, and then letting of and letting engine slow the truck. I contiued the "break in proccess" for about 100 miles, changed the oil, drove it normal for another 500 miles, changed the oil again, then drove normal for another 1000 miles, then changed it one more time, and after that I've stuck with the 3000 miles routine.

Junkers88

Yup, thats the process as described to me when I first started rebuilding stuff.

So it doesn't smoke, no puddles, no smell, no nothing other than the oil being gone? That is freaking odd!

89whitetoyota

i know its new motor but is there anything around your tranny? Is the rear main ok?

AzStorm

Its not uncommon for new motors to consume oil.It was probably really low due to you not checking it and keeping it full.

Any time a motor knocks its not good.
I hope you didnt hurt the crank bearings or anything else.

I always use dino oil for break in then switch to synthetic.

iamsuperbleeder

all good there; I had the trans off not all too long ago replacing the trans input shaft seal, which I neglected to do when the freeking motor was out



thank ya sir, that supports what I was thinking

I don't thing it caused any harm to the bearings or journals; it's silent when it's running, and the oil pressure is perfect


I've been using standard oil since first startup, but yeah I've been considering switching to synthetic here soon. I'll put it through one more "dino oil" change, then maybe switch to synthetic


Quick question though guys. During initial break in, for the first 500 miles, I ran 15w40, as I read that's the best to use during break in. After that, I've been runnning 10w30.

Now, I live in Florida, where most of the time it's 80+ degrees. Of caurse, this time of the year it fluctuates, and one week it's 80, the next it's 40

What weight would you guys reccomend? I'd just assume stick with 10w30, unless anyone has a better suggestion.



Thanks!

AzStorm

It gets REALLY hot here in the summer so I run 20-50 Mobile 1 synthetic in my toy,the wifes car,the daughters car,and my 2 bikes.

iamsuperbleeder

reeeaaallly.... hmmm...


Thanks!

flyingbrass

I ran 10-40 dino all the time here in the desert for 15 years. Changed every 3K. My old bearings looked great, so it seemed to work well.

I plan to use dino oil and Redline break-in additive in my rebuilt engine. 1/4 bottle per oil change should be enough to bring the ZDDP level up to where the older oils used to be.

Chutchman

Did you check your coolant to make sure that the oil hasn't leaked into it?

iamsuperbleeder

oh most certainly; I just did the heater core the day prior, and before pulling any hoses off, I drained almost all of the coolant out from the drain cock on the radiator; it's all brand new looking; bright and green

so it's not mixing into the coolant becuase of a blown HG, if that's what you're getting at

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

HA! you said drain...

camo31_10.50

lmfao!!

mine leaks a bit from the the TOP of the water pump...it doesnt drip from above..or some from between the head and block.....it's WEIRD because i didnt know there was any oil that flowed around water pump...

TinMan

Bleeder how much oil did you spread on the cylinder walls when you dropped the new pistons in. I ask because every engine I have seen where the builder really coats the cylinder walls with oil on instal has used oil, and there is no fix for it. All that is really needed is to coat the rings before putting the ring compresser on. Also if you seated your plugs with 10/40, 10/30 might be to thin and getting past the rings. I am running 20/50 in mine to keep the oil consumption down, it is 30deg average every morning and I have no problems. Take a look at your plugs. if you are burning that much oil it will show on them. Hope it helps.

iamsuperbleeder

my proceedure was using a turkey baster filled with 15w40 to apply to the rings, and thuroughly wiping down the cylinder walls to remove the risk of contaiminants; the cylinders didn't really have any lube on them to speak of while installing the pistons, just oil on the rings of the pistons


I think I'm going to try 15w40 again next time around; I'm not going to jump right to 20w50. If it still seems to burn a stupid amount of oil, then I'll step up to 20w50

And yeah, I think I might check my plugs tomorrow, thanks! Still runs smooth, so they haven't got bad enough to foul out... and I'd hate to have to replace $40 worth of spark plugs... damn E3's...

TinMan

I am burning a quart or so a week from oil bypass of the rings, it does not hurt compression, or leak down at all. best I can tell it seems to be one of the problems with the 22RE rebuilds. I did not rebuild mine, but can tell it was rebuilt sometime in the recent past. My plugs are not getting to fouled by it either. But I can tell the oil burn on them. The worst one is no 3.

My father-in-law is a retired GM school trained engine builder, he has told me that he favors iron rings over chrome molly. Said for a daily driver they seat better and hold compression better. Just the life span is not as good.

E3's worked for you? I put a set on mine, they lasted 30 miles before all 4 fouled out.

Drove mine 350 miles last night, got 23 mpg used 2.5 quarts of oil.

later

crafthorse

Replace PCV, even if you put a new one in, maybe its defective, I dunno, but just a thought.

iamsuperbleeder

hmmmm... the PCV valve aint a bad idea!

thanks!



;cheers:

weaselman

Im havibng the same problem!!!

And i just rebuilt my motor and have 3200 miles on it. The oil consumption has slowed down quite a bit.

Same symptoms as you tho..

I think its still breaking in..