22re Difficult Crank After Long/Hard Drive and Cooldown
#1
22re Difficult Crank After Long/Hard Drive and Cooldown
Recently I have been having a few troubles and I have been unable to pinpoint the source:
For starters, the problem occurs in it's fullest after a long drive or any sort of interstate drive.
It began with my idle. I had an idle that went up and down at no specific intervals. After driving on the interstate, the truck began to cut off as I got off the exit ramp. I would have to let it cool off and try to crank it again. It most always cranked back up after a few seconds. I would then continue to keep significant RPMs until it cooled down. I changed my fuel filter, thinking this may be the culprit. I also changed my fuel injectors, cleaned my air filter, and changed all fluids.
The problem has evolved into:
After a long drive or a heavy highway drive, I will let it sit. When it cools completely and I try to recrank, it will sputter. It sounds similar to a tractor cranking, slowly ticking along until all the smoke clears out of the exhaust. It sounds like the combustion has way too much fuel/air. To combat this and try to keep the car from idling out on me, I opened the idle nearly wide open. It hasn't cut off on me after this. However it does still have trouble cranking after long drives and cooldown. When it cranks, she drives like a champ.
The fuel injectors have been observed during cool down, they are NOT dripping. The throddle body is not sticking, the majority of carbon has been cleaned out. Two suspects of mine are the MAF and the EGR. Also, I suspect the fuel pump must be working all too well, but the fuel pressure regulator may be failing.
There is a bit of smoke on crank up, as I said. After the smoke clears, it drives well. I believe the smoke to be white. My oil smells like gas to an extent. And I must replace the oil every 1000-2000 miles, instead of 3000. But this may be a different, less significant, problem. I just wanted to give all the info I can.
I am writing this post to see if anyone has had this or a similar problem before or if anyone can possibly help me diagnose this. I have taken videos of multiple cranks throughout the last week. I can send them to you however.
For starters, the problem occurs in it's fullest after a long drive or any sort of interstate drive.
It began with my idle. I had an idle that went up and down at no specific intervals. After driving on the interstate, the truck began to cut off as I got off the exit ramp. I would have to let it cool off and try to crank it again. It most always cranked back up after a few seconds. I would then continue to keep significant RPMs until it cooled down. I changed my fuel filter, thinking this may be the culprit. I also changed my fuel injectors, cleaned my air filter, and changed all fluids.
The problem has evolved into:
After a long drive or a heavy highway drive, I will let it sit. When it cools completely and I try to recrank, it will sputter. It sounds similar to a tractor cranking, slowly ticking along until all the smoke clears out of the exhaust. It sounds like the combustion has way too much fuel/air. To combat this and try to keep the car from idling out on me, I opened the idle nearly wide open. It hasn't cut off on me after this. However it does still have trouble cranking after long drives and cooldown. When it cranks, she drives like a champ.
The fuel injectors have been observed during cool down, they are NOT dripping. The throddle body is not sticking, the majority of carbon has been cleaned out. Two suspects of mine are the MAF and the EGR. Also, I suspect the fuel pump must be working all too well, but the fuel pressure regulator may be failing.
There is a bit of smoke on crank up, as I said. After the smoke clears, it drives well. I believe the smoke to be white. My oil smells like gas to an extent. And I must replace the oil every 1000-2000 miles, instead of 3000. But this may be a different, less significant, problem. I just wanted to give all the info I can.
I am writing this post to see if anyone has had this or a similar problem before or if anyone can possibly help me diagnose this. I have taken videos of multiple cranks throughout the last week. I can send them to you however.
#3
I have not run a compression check, though I will this week. And I put the blue seal in the radiator fluid, and ran it as specified. The fluid isn't leaking anymore. I'll check the fluid to see the color. I should look for white color?
#4
Registered User
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Just where do you live ???
How Hot has it been it almost sounds like a vapor lock problem where the gas turns to vapor in the fuel lines .
I know my 3.4 has done something like this after 3 or 4 hours of 65MPH plus it just stalled coming up to the exit ramp stop sign.
How Hot has it been it almost sounds like a vapor lock problem where the gas turns to vapor in the fuel lines .
I know my 3.4 has done something like this after 3 or 4 hours of 65MPH plus it just stalled coming up to the exit ramp stop sign.
#5
the problem is white smoke and oil that smells like gas.
if the plugs are super clean, it could mean moisture in the combustion chamber, which is probably a head gasket... need that compression check.
i don't know what blue seal is.
if the plugs are super clean, it could mean moisture in the combustion chamber, which is probably a head gasket... need that compression check.
i don't know what blue seal is.
#6
I live in SC, it's about 90degrees here. That sounds like the exact problem I am having. Is there a vapor lock mechanism on the engine/lines?
#7
I am having the same issue but it only happens on a hot restart, never during a drive. I have to feather the gas to keep it running while putting it in gear and after a minute or two on the highway it will smooth out and is no longer an issue until I start it again.
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#8
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There is a fuel pressure-up VSV commanded by the ECU relying on engine coolant temp. It increases the fuel rail pressure to over-come vapor lock. Here's how to check it:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/41fuelp.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/41fuelp.pdf
#9
this is great info, but, I have an 82 with no ECU as far as I know. I have repalced the fuel pump, I was sure that was it, but, my experience is with mostly fuel injected cars and this 82 is a bone stock california model with all the smog pumps and BS intact.
Last edited by aeryck; 06-30-2014 at 04:11 PM.
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