davefrankman

I have a 92 Toyota Pickup with a 22re in it. I decided to change the chain and jut got it all back together. When I tried to start it up, it would idle (after I adjusted the timing), but when I pushed on the gas pedal it would just bog down and die. Can anyone give me a set of suggestions on how I should proceed to narrow down the Problem?

toyaholic

it's pretty easy to get the cam and crank off a link from being lined up right. it happened to me. fixed it by taking the valve cover off. pretty simple job.

davefrankman

I am absolutely sure that the sprocket marks were lined up with the correct links on the chain (I triple checked). Can it still be off?

Targetnut

check over your work, look for air leaks in the intake tract etc..

Targetnut

also disconnected connectors or stuck door in airflow meter

davefrankman

I never disconnected the intake manifold. What do you mean by "air leaks"? Could it be a bad fuel pump? If so, what does a failing fuel pump sound like?

SCYOTA

I would start by troubleshooting the work you just did if it was running fine before you pulled it apart. It seems odd that if the everything was untouched except the timing chain replacement that you would have other issues appearing. If you are positive that your valve timing is correct then I would suspect ignition timing. Did you set your ignition timing with a timing light? Is it running really ruff? Maybe your distributor is a tooth off. Give us any more info you can so we can help you diagnose it.

davefrankman

Good idea. I used a timing light to set the timing to 5 btdc jumpered. I am not too confident that the connection was good when I placed a wire between the two jump points. Should the engine light be blinking consistently when the wire has a good connection?

After I adjusted the timing, the engine idled as well as it ever had, but when I press on the gas it just bogs down and dies.

I have also tried to move the distributor on tooth in either direction with no improvement (it gets worse).

I followed the haynes manual to change the timing chain (with some help from yotatech). I removed the following items.

Air ducts
fan guard
radiator
fan and fan pulley
alternator adjustment bracket (did not remove alternator)
disconnected center link at idler arm and pitman arm
removed oil pan
pulled off valve cover (carefully marking all vacuum hoses with masking tape and marker)
pulled off chain cover
replaced chain guides, tensioner, sprockets, and chain
replaced water pump

put it back together with new gaskets

This whole process took about a month. When I started it up again I could hear the fuel pump making a high pitched noise (at least I think it is the fuel pump, not too many moving parts back there), but it quit fairly quickly.

Thanks for the input, what other information can I provide?

davefrankman

One tooth in either direction that is

SCYOTA

Great info. I bet your AFM did not get hooked back up. Its on the top of your airfilter box. Let me know if that is it.

davefrankman

I will take a look when I go home (I have class until this evening) What does AFM stand for? Thanks for the help!

SCYOTA

Air Flow Meter.

davefrankman

The air flow sensor is attached and plugged in.

thook

Look here under engine stall.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3troubles.pdf

You'll just have to start eliminating each one in numerical order. If the vehicle was running fine before the timing chain replacement, it's unlikely something has gone bad. More likely you have a bad connection somewhere. Even thought the AFM is hooked up, pulled the connector off and look down in the female terminals. Make sure one or more has not been dislodged and shoved backwards and so not actually connecting the male terminals. If you have to, you can pull the rubber boot back to see, as well.

Since the TPS is next on the list, and since it seems to be so common of a problem, check the adjustment there. When you jumped the CEL terminals to adjust your timing, the idle should have dropped. If not, then that points to the TPS. And yes, the light should blink conistently when the term's are jumped. Anyway, if the TPS is out of adjustment, you wouldn't have been able to set the timing correctly. Make sense?

davefrankman

I think you may be correct about the TPS. It is true that I was able to get it to idle. However, it was not on the correct angle at the time (I was in the cab doing the key turning). I have since adjusted the timing to 12 btdc (no jumper) and it will not idle.

I have read through this page

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#Introduction

I have gone through the tests in table 1. Test #3 has failed. (it reads 150 ohms). Therfore, I plan to adjust the E2 IDL setting. Before I do this I would like to get some input on a mistake I made.

While I was working on the truck I noticed the screw located in what I thought at the time was a hose nipple (located on the top left of the throttle body). Thinking at the time that the screw was a plug to block this unused "hose nipple", I determined to tighten it down to make sure it did not come loose. Now I am fairly certain that this is a valve of some sort. Could this be the source of my problems? Is so, should I still follow the procedure to adjust the TPS in the website above?

SC2WD

Before you change anything else, back that screw back out and see if it runs better.

davefrankman

I tried to move it back using a picture that I took at the beginning of this job. That actually did not work. I have attached a picture of the throttle body. The screw I mistakenly adjusted is on the left of the picture. It is a flat head.

superjoe83

thats the idle speed adjustment, turn it out to increase rpm, turn in to reduce rpm

davefrankman

Thanks. So would this have any effect on the adjustment of the TPS? (in other words, would you still adjust the TPS as described in the website above?)

toyaholic

no, the air idle adjustment screw has no effect on the tps adjustment. the tps could be your problem but i doubt it. it definately should be checked. my truck will still run with the tps unhooked. did you ever mess with the tps to begin with?
the check engine light blinks continuously every half second with the terminals shorted if you have no trouble codes stored.