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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 10-04-2005, 09:34 AM   #1
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22RE Cold Start Injector Timing Switch Bypass?

Is there a way to bypass the cold start injector timing switch ?

Maybe put a manual switch in the dash somewhere, Flick said switch and engage the cold start injector for a couple seconds and turn it off? Kinda like a manual choke so to say.

Any other Cold Start injector timing switch fixes out there?


I tried searching but all I found was 100's of questions from people asking why there truck won't start when cold.

Toyota wants $217 + 15% tax for this stupid little switch. theres gotta be a way around it.
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Old 10-04-2005, 09:50 AM   #2
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Sounds like it should work, the switch just turns on the injector when the temp is below a certain point. You just have to remember to turn it off again.
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Old 10-07-2005, 07:05 AM   #3
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Theroy of Operation CSI

Can some one confirm if this will work?

Take the power wire for the starter and run it to the cold start injector, run the other line (Ground) To a switch in the cab and to a ground,

When I flick the switch the cold start injector will only fire when the engine is being turned over. (Bonus with this method is I dont have to worry about burning out the CSI by not turning off the switch)

My main concern is how long is the cold start injector supposed to run for, Is it ONLY when the engine is being turned over ? Or does contiune to run for a few minutes/Seconds After ?
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Old 10-07-2005, 07:32 AM   #4
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The specs for injector time switch show one resistance at 10 deg celsius, and a different one at 30. I would assume from that it switches off at 30 deg, which isn't very warm. Your wiring suggestion should work, whether the injector will stay on long wnough I don't know. Especially when it way below zero outside.

Also the manual shows another wre from the injector time switch going to the ecm, I guess to tell the computer that the cold start injector is being used. You may have to connect that up somehow.
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Old 10-07-2005, 03:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Hummer
Can some one confirm if this will work?

Take the power wire for the starter and run it to the cold start injector, run the other line (Ground) To a switch in the cab and to a ground,

When I flick the switch the cold start injector will only fire when the engine is being turned over. (Bonus with this method is I dont have to worry about burning out the CSI by not turning off the switch)

My main concern is how long is the cold start injector supposed to run for, Is it ONLY when the engine is being turned over ? Or does contiune to run for a few minutes/Seconds After ?
hey, thats how i have mine set up

i dont think that you need the wire that goes to the ECM, mine is not hooked up and i have no problems or ECM trouble codes

this is a wiring diagram for an '85, you can see that they have it hooked up the same way that i do except that my switch replaces the thermal switch

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-07-2005, 03:54 PM   #6
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Yes that works. The "starter" wire should be the one that cranks it, not the battery feed.

CS injector 101:

The thermo-time switch for the cold start injector provides the ground for the injector. The "crank" feed to the starter provides the power.

There are 2 terminals in the thermo-time switch. One goes the the ground contacts ( if the temp is cold enough......not needed on a warm engine), the other goes to a heater element. The outside of the switch MUST be grounded for it to work. If the engine is cold, the switch grounds the CS inj, and it sprays extra fuel. The "crank" feed also powers the heater element. After a few seconds, the switch is warm enough to loose the ground for the injector. IIRC it is only 4-6 seconds. Otherwise it would flood.

Class dismissed.

I do have another time switch in my parts box if you want to do it right (see if I can find it) It would be from a 85 or a 87 22RE.
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:09 PM   #7
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Michael, all you have to do is figure out which wire goes to the Thermo Time Switch, and run that wire to the toggle switch, the other wire is already hooked up to the crank wire, or you could buy David's switch
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:29 PM   #8
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Thanks for all your Help guys. YT Rocks.

Im going to look at my wiring diagram tommorrow (My Manual is at my brother in laws) Than I'll figure out which wire is the ground from the CSI Time Switch, Ill cut that wire and route it to the new toggle switch.

Thanks for the help once again

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Old 10-07-2005, 08:22 PM   #9
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Or you could find one in a junk yard and not have to wire up something and flip a switch to start your truck when it's cold. I'm sure toyotapartsdude would have one. Or there's a Toyota junk yard in CO.

But if you like to rig stuff then go right ahead, IMO.
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Old 10-08-2005, 04:23 AM   #10
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Are you sure the switch is bad? I've seen more injectors go bad than the switch. (but it does happen)
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Old 10-08-2005, 07:02 AM   #11
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Yes Switch is bad. I Tested it, Injector fires when voltage is applied to it.

The toyota guy I talked to said the replace 20 times the amount of rimming switches than they do CSI.

Toyota trucks are next to impossible to find in Salavage yards here in Canada.
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:07 AM   #12
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I read and re-read this thread yesterday thinking the cold start timer was my problem but, after stewing over it for 24 hours I think my problem is something else. After a complete engine rebuild I had to crank way down on the idle screw to get it to just barely run when cold. It starts great but, after it warms up, it idles way too fast. It's a 22RE[C]. Any thoughts?

I'd move this to a different thread but then I'm not sure you guys would see it.

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Old 07-07-2011, 09:13 AM   #13
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Have you checked to see if your IACV is not plugged shut. It is below the throttle body.

Clean it out really good and make sure all passages are free of stuff, then hook it back up and set the idle properly with the idle screw and see if that works.
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Old 07-07-2011, 10:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobdds View Post
Have you checked to see if your IACV is not plugged shut. It is below the throttle body.

Click the image to open in full size.


Quote:
Originally Posted by snobdds View Post
Clean it out really good and make sure all passages are free of stuff, then hook it back up and set the idle properly with the idle screw and see if that works.
DON'T take the Friggen thing apart enough to remove the BIG screw w/ spring attached under threaded cup, under plate small plate w/ 4 screws.

Click the image to open in full size.

In this pic only take the 4 screws and plate off, changing the thread count on that "threaded cup" changed my life:cry

Plenty of space to spray stuff in there, around spring and such to clean it out, will have to go after it from 2 different ways on a few passages but too bad

Good thing I found a spare for free

I found no factory settings for how far in that cup needed to go and using others (from here at YT) helpful thread counts did not seem to work in mine after the 4th time draining fluids removing adjusting ETC, I found a replacement and life got better.

IF one wanted to spend the time they could keep taking it apart, changing thread count and re-assemble till it seemed right.

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Old 07-07-2011, 11:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobdds View Post
Have you checked to see if your IACV is not plugged shut. It is below the throttle body.

Clean it out really good and make sure all passages are free of stuff, then hook it back up and set the idle properly with the idle screw and see if that works.
OK, I'll try it. What does 'IACV' stand for? Below the throttle body you say. Even on a 22RE California engine? My induction system seems a bit different.
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Old 07-08-2011, 02:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
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OK, I'll try it. What does 'IACV' stand for? Below the throttle body you say. Even on a 22RE California engine? My induction system seems a bit different.
From a donor intake I was able to remove the IAC housing but not without incident. I had to drill out the screws to get it off the throttle body and now I'll need to get four more M5-0.8 X 16mm screws.


It was quite easy to break the gasket seal but a corner of the housing stayed on the throttle body. I promise I didn't force it. After drilling out the screws it almost fell off but now I have to do the same to my running 22RE and hope the same thing doesn't happen.

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Old 07-08-2011, 03:33 PM   #17
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Idle Air Control Valve
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHEngineer View Post
From a donor intake I was able to remove the IAC housing but not without incident. I had to drill out the screws to get it off the throttle body and now I'll need to get four more M5-0.8 X 16mm screws. It was quite easy to break the gasket seal but a corner of the housing stayed on the throttle body. I promise I didn't force it. After drilling out the screws it almost fell off but now I have to do the same to my running 22RE and hope the same thing doesn't happen.
So then, it turns out that a 22RE[C] does not have a conventional idle air control valve. So now what?
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:48 AM   #19
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Save yourself some grief next time and get some pb blaster lubricant its magnetic and those screws will come right out in about ten minutes. I had the same problem with my entire upper intake and throttle body. I was ready to just go and buy the entire assembly until I found the blaster.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:42 AM   #20
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Well fellow Yota guys, after years of messing around with a screwed up induction when cold, I replaced my O2 sensor and 2/3'ds of my engine problems went away.

Just into winter last year my 22REC refused to start easily when cold. When it finally did fire it was totally flooded and just barely ran until the engine temp came up. In addition, sometimes the tack needle would jump all the way to max and back to 1500 repeatedly until the engine was warm. I was able to plow snow but I had about zero torque at low RPM. I replaced the ignition module and it 'kind of' improved starting but it the engine still had no nut at all and would still run erratically until warmed up.

Last week I finally replaced the O2 sensor and it made a world of difference in torque, starting and fuel mileage but it still runs erratically until warm. It will back fire out of the air intake as well as the exhaust. That would indicate to me to be 'effed' up timing or even water in the distributor cap with a non OBD engine but this ECM deal is mostly a mystery to me. I'm 70 years old pretty much a victim of emission control stuff. Can anyone help?

By the way, there was no condensation under the distributor cap.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:42 AM
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