22re Build
05-13-2008, 01:44 AM
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22re Build
Well,
Heres some pics to the start of my first 22re rebuild. I am in the process of pullin the motor, so far tonight I have removed the exhaust manifold, most of the wiring harness, radiator, p/s hoses, and other items. The motor has blown the head gasket completely. When i first got it (a year ago) the man said that the timing chain broke and the motor had work done, and everything was gone over. In about a few months i realized that it was consuming coolant(very little). It was minor, as my motor still ran pretty smooth. But just recently it blew out the head gasket and coolant was coming out on the exhaust side down the block, so i quit driving it. I am just now free for the next week and a half to get her build. I am going to a reputable machine shop which uses topline parts. they have extremely good deals on kits if i have my machine work done w/ them. I am wondering what head gaskets, pistons, bearings and other misc parts have the best rep? I want my motor to be as reliable as possible.
---
before
bye, bye wiring
radiator
organization
Heres some pics to the start of my first 22re rebuild. I am in the process of pullin the motor, so far tonight I have removed the exhaust manifold, most of the wiring harness, radiator, p/s hoses, and other items. The motor has blown the head gasket completely. When i first got it (a year ago) the man said that the timing chain broke and the motor had work done, and everything was gone over. In about a few months i realized that it was consuming coolant(very little). It was minor, as my motor still ran pretty smooth. But just recently it blew out the head gasket and coolant was coming out on the exhaust side down the block, so i quit driving it. I am just now free for the next week and a half to get her build. I am going to a reputable machine shop which uses topline parts. they have extremely good deals on kits if i have my machine work done w/ them. I am wondering what head gaskets, pistons, bearings and other misc parts have the best rep? I want my motor to be as reliable as possible.
---
before
bye, bye wiring
radiator
organization
05-13-2008, 02:07 AM
#2
Registered User
Here's a few initial R&R items I'd like to share with you....
Being the lazy bum that I am...
I did not take the time to document any of my (5) 22re engine changes but...
Have a sharpie and masking tape, make 1-1 2-2 3-3 4-4 type labels when you disconnect wires and hoses so you can more easily determine where to put them back.
Take out the Battery.
pull the radiator, remove the (3) flange bolts from the ex manifold; (4) bolts that hold the powersteering pump in its bracket; (4) bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the block; and use some bailing wire to hold these aside.
Disconnect-upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hose at firewall, heater hose at valve, fuel line at filter input, throttle cable from throttle body, ground wire between block and firewall, ground cable at front of block, + cable at starter, two connectors that go back to the transmission which are located by the oil filter. In the cab, pull the right kick panel, remove (3) 12mm bolts to pull the engine computer, disconnect 2 connectors from it, and the other 2 connectors from the body harness, and from the engine compartment, pull the engine harness from the cab and fish it out so it will go out with the motor. There are (4) motor mount bolts to remove. On the bell housing, the two 17mm bolts at the top are notorious for being difficult. I use a 17mm combination, it IS possible to get on each bolt and get about 20 degrees of swing. IF its too tight, take another 19mm comb. wrench, hook it in the jaw of the 17 and make a breaker bar out of it, works quite nicely.
My preference is to just disconnect things so I can pull the whole engine with fan/alternator/manifold/intake etc as a unit. you can do a better job assembling all that on the stand, and dropping it back in.
Being the lazy bum that I am...
I did not take the time to document any of my (5) 22re engine changes but...
Have a sharpie and masking tape, make 1-1 2-2 3-3 4-4 type labels when you disconnect wires and hoses so you can more easily determine where to put them back.
Take out the Battery.
pull the radiator, remove the (3) flange bolts from the ex manifold; (4) bolts that hold the powersteering pump in its bracket; (4) bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the block; and use some bailing wire to hold these aside.
Disconnect-upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hose at firewall, heater hose at valve, fuel line at filter input, throttle cable from throttle body, ground wire between block and firewall, ground cable at front of block, + cable at starter, two connectors that go back to the transmission which are located by the oil filter. In the cab, pull the right kick panel, remove (3) 12mm bolts to pull the engine computer, disconnect 2 connectors from it, and the other 2 connectors from the body harness, and from the engine compartment, pull the engine harness from the cab and fish it out so it will go out with the motor. There are (4) motor mount bolts to remove. On the bell housing, the two 17mm bolts at the top are notorious for being difficult. I use a 17mm combination, it IS possible to get on each bolt and get about 20 degrees of swing. IF its too tight, take another 19mm comb. wrench, hook it in the jaw of the 17 and make a breaker bar out of it, works quite nicely.
My preference is to just disconnect things so I can pull the whole engine with fan/alternator/manifold/intake etc as a unit. you can do a better job assembling all that on the stand, and dropping it back in.
05-14-2008, 12:14 AM
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I got more done, I managed to pull the motor, the bolts on the top of the transmission was a pita. I have labeled some wiring but should have done all to be more thourogh, but pulled it all out. did not need to remove the battery. Heres some pics of todays progress.
pulled
motor out
new inexpensive stand - $57
pulled
motor out
new inexpensive stand - $57
Last edited by aktoy; 05-22-2008 at 01:41 AM.
05-15-2008, 12:42 AM
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todays progress i have torn down the motor to the block, the head gasket was a multi-layered metal one with a thick copper layer on the top, it started separating in the back. as for parts, my waterpump and timing cover look new. as i bought it from a guy who had the motor worked on by his mechanic buddy, most stuff is in good condition, but i guess i will replace anything that is out of spec or worn beyond repair. The cam and rockers look like they wore in good, but the adjuster screws are worn out, as they probably weren't adjusted frequently, i plan on getting an ENGNBLDR 268 cam, but am wondering if my rocker arms will need surfaced or replaced, they are very smoothly burnished in with my cam. the crank looks good, but the very front key was sheared and the keyway is smooshed a little bit, but i think is very minor and can be repaired. The although this is the second time this engine has been out in the last two years(first time for me), i feel things were replace but not assembled and broken in carefully. for the oil pan they used a cork gasket and a lot of the bolts were either hand tight or just over hand tight. isn't the oil pan designed for rtv or FPIG sealant? anyways, that is what i know and i guess i will get my block to the machine shop and probably have questions when it comes to assembly.
-----------
PICS FROM TODAY
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PICS FROM TODAY
05-15-2008, 06:52 AM
#6
Registered User
AK,
Talk to Ted - engnbldr about your concerns in regard to rocker arms. IF you can, post high resolution photos of the pads on the arms.
My advice is to stick with stock toyota rocker arms. If not too badly worn, have your machine shop polish the existing pads. Non-OEM rockers do not have a good history. You can replace with OEM rockers for around $26/each (discounted price). The alternative is to get a set of used rockers that are in good shape. I recommend this over buying non-OEM, but talk to Ted.
The parts that you get from Ted (www.engnbldr.com) are fine for a rebuild. I have a changed a few gaskets on my truck - which are not necessary, but if you want to make gasket changes:
1) a synthetic intake manifold gasket. LC sells them, but you can also get them on ebay. These don't fall apart due to water and can be reused.
2) A Remflex exhaust gasket. These are great, thick, seal well...
3) I use an MLS head gasket. This isn't necessary on a naturally aspirated truck and you may have to have your block decked R50 or better to use it.
I do recommend ARP studs on all 22R series motors. You're looking at $120.
Before you reinstall the motor, flip it upside down on the stand and tap out the existing head bolt holes in block. These holes get all kinds of crap in them and are a real bear to clean out with the block right side up. Do this regardless of using ARPs or stock bolts.
Talk to Ted - engnbldr about your concerns in regard to rocker arms. IF you can, post high resolution photos of the pads on the arms.
My advice is to stick with stock toyota rocker arms. If not too badly worn, have your machine shop polish the existing pads. Non-OEM rockers do not have a good history. You can replace with OEM rockers for around $26/each (discounted price). The alternative is to get a set of used rockers that are in good shape. I recommend this over buying non-OEM, but talk to Ted.
The parts that you get from Ted (www.engnbldr.com) are fine for a rebuild. I have a changed a few gaskets on my truck - which are not necessary, but if you want to make gasket changes:
1) a synthetic intake manifold gasket. LC sells them, but you can also get them on ebay. These don't fall apart due to water and can be reused.
2) A Remflex exhaust gasket. These are great, thick, seal well...
3) I use an MLS head gasket. This isn't necessary on a naturally aspirated truck and you may have to have your block decked R50 or better to use it.
I do recommend ARP studs on all 22R series motors. You're looking at $120.
Before you reinstall the motor, flip it upside down on the stand and tap out the existing head bolt holes in block. These holes get all kinds of crap in them and are a real bear to clean out with the block right side up. Do this regardless of using ARPs or stock bolts.
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05-20-2008, 12:35 AM
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I got all my engine parts of to the machine shop, and they are getting to work on it, but i am leaving on the 22nd for 3 months out of town for a job. I have all the parts cleaned up ready for assembly when i get back. Also i found out that i need a new crank due to the keyway being screwed up. Topline makes a brand new crank that is only $70 more than reground, so i think i will order a new one. Al my parts will be ready for me when i get back so i have done all i can do for now.
05-20-2008, 05:19 AM
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AK,
Talk to Ted - engnbldr about your concerns in regard to rocker arms. IF you can, post high resolution photos of the pads on the arms.
My advice is to stick with stock toyota rocker arms. If not too badly worn, have your machine shop polish the existing pads. Non-OEM rockers do not have a good history. You can replace with OEM rockers for around $26/each (discounted price). The alternative is to get a set of used rockers that are in good shape. I recommend this over buying non-OEM, but talk to Ted.
The parts that you get from Ted (www.engnbldr.com) are fine for a rebuild. I have a changed a few gaskets on my truck - which are not necessary, but if you want to make gasket changes:
1) a synthetic intake manifold gasket. LC sells them, but you can also get them on ebay. These don't fall apart due to water and can be reused.
2) A Remflex exhaust gasket. These are great, thick, seal well...
3) I use an MLS head gasket. This isn't necessary on a naturally aspirated truck and you may have to have your block decked R50 or better to use it.
I do recommend ARP studs on all 22R series motors. You're looking at $120.
Before you reinstall the motor, flip it upside down on the stand and tap out the existing head bolt holes in block. These holes get all kinds of crap in them and are a real bear to clean out with the block right side up. Do this regardless of using ARPs or stock bolts.
Talk to Ted - engnbldr about your concerns in regard to rocker arms. IF you can, post high resolution photos of the pads on the arms.
My advice is to stick with stock toyota rocker arms. If not too badly worn, have your machine shop polish the existing pads. Non-OEM rockers do not have a good history. You can replace with OEM rockers for around $26/each (discounted price). The alternative is to get a set of used rockers that are in good shape. I recommend this over buying non-OEM, but talk to Ted.
The parts that you get from Ted (www.engnbldr.com) are fine for a rebuild. I have a changed a few gaskets on my truck - which are not necessary, but if you want to make gasket changes:
1) a synthetic intake manifold gasket. LC sells them, but you can also get them on ebay. These don't fall apart due to water and can be reused.
2) A Remflex exhaust gasket. These are great, thick, seal well...
3) I use an MLS head gasket. This isn't necessary on a naturally aspirated truck and you may have to have your block decked R50 or better to use it.
I do recommend ARP studs on all 22R series motors. You're looking at $120.
Before you reinstall the motor, flip it upside down on the stand and tap out the existing head bolt holes in block. These holes get all kinds of crap in them and are a real bear to clean out with the block right side up. Do this regardless of using ARPs or stock bolts.
Ted uses Topline so you're good.
By all means burnish the rockers. If you love your new cam that is.
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