JoeCat1221

Ok so my 22re is blown. Its not siezed but she is spewing oil everywhere from the front of the motor. I want to put a used motor in and i have found a local motor used with 143,000 miles for 950 out of a 87 runner that was siezed by border patrol. my concern is this, it is a 22REC not a 22RE. Im told that the RE and REC dosent matter. Is this true?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Really only three main versions People seem to interchange 22Re and 22REC all the time In the early days the c was thought to have meant the California Emissions package

3 versions Are the Carburetor R

Electronic Fuel Injection RE

Turbo Charged RTE

4RunnerFreak12

Have you looked into rebuilt long blocks? Around here there about $1100 with your core and has warranty.

To answer your question tho (I never had a 22rec all the ones I've had was a 22r and 22re) but I would try to get computer (and harness) from donor if possible (or verify if yours will work) It will bolt up and all (from what I have read the rec is CA emissions like Wyoming9 said) so really just need to make sure no extra o2 sensors, cat, or anything like that. Maybe check out the "engine swaps" section. Its same basic engine so should work would just look into the emissions differences. But again I don't know but that's what I would be researching.

edit: Are u pretty sure it's toast? Could be front crank seal (leaking into fan and spraying everywhere) which would be cheap easy fix vs whole engine swap. Any rod knock or ticking?- if no maybe try tracking leak, might be easier and less of a dent in your wallet then you think. Do compression test if good then all you need is timing cover gaskets and crank seal- wherever you track leak/s to.

lalojamesliz

I would also vote for a rebuilt longblock.

4RunnerFreak12

There are 2 opinions/views about used factory engine vs rebuilt or rebuilding yourself

1) Factory is better and will last longer then rebuilt so w/ 143xxx it should "theoretically" last to 300k+ like a lot of factory 22re engines do

2) You don't know the condition of a used engine without compression test or really tearing it down to inspect bearings. What if it was run out of oil? What is condition of t chain and guides? So better to rebuild it and know everything is new.

Best question: What if it blows 4 months down the road?

With a rebuilt engine you know it's good. Maybe even plan to redo front end on the motor you get (t chain w/ steel rails and front and rear mains) then you get the factory built bottom end and the front (common failure parts) are good. Although that could be all your current engine needs-see previous post...

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The "C" means California model which will just have more emissions on it. Blocks are all the same from 85 and newer.

osv

$950 for unknown condition sounds like too much money to me... has the compression been checked on it?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

One never knows just which course to take.

Myself local Machine Shop to do the bottom end and head work.

Do all the rest myself ( I have a 22re ready to do just this for 5 or 6 years )

Used engines one never knows although it may be possible to take a used engine for a test drive or hear it run.

Rebuilt it really needs to be installed to see if it was done correct . Problems a warranty is great but it still needs to come back out bought local not to bad

Got a great deal online is it your expense to get it shipped back

As the OP seems to lack the skill to fix a oil leak or at least confirm what is leaking it would seem putting a engine together may be beyond there skills at this time

Been here dealt with all of the above scenarios up close and in person