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22re About to loose hope

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Old 06-11-2013, 01:16 PM
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22re About to loose hope

Ok so I found a new ecu for the truck and I plugged it in and at first it didn't start but about the fourth or fifth try it starts and has abosolutly no miss at all, didn't rev very good though so I check the tps sensor, it's bad the idle and fully closed setting is perfect but you can't adjust it so its in the accepted range for wot so I replaced it with another used tps runs great at idle but its throwing codes 24 and 31. It idles fine and revs ok but not good but if the engine gets put under load ( anything more than the mildest acceleration) it will just stop making power like no fuel unless you literally put your foot on the floor then it runs normal but only if your foot is on the floor or your barley touching the pedal
What do you guys think in kinda leaning towards fuel pump
Oh and I replaced the afm sinse that's what the codes said and every now and then while I'm cruising it will backfire bad like a gun shot I know it's bad but its hilarious while driving around the lake it sound like a 357 going off right outside the window, poor ladies walking their dogs almost tuck and rolled, I was laughing so hard I swerved almost off the road and laughed for like 3 miles around the lake anyway that sounds like a problem and really needs fixed (it doesn't happen very often, could it be timing or something else)
Old 06-11-2013, 02:57 PM
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my fuel pump was doing funny suff like that when it went out, if you have a fuel pressure gauge you could test it it could be working but not having enough pressure to keep it running right thought i would bet your timing is off which i would thing is your problem if your backfireing, not to sure on that though im not an expert
Old 06-11-2013, 03:08 PM
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Ok I guess I'm going to have to get another
Old 06-11-2013, 05:09 PM
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Do you still have codes?

What is the timing set to?

(It would be a lot easier to understand your post if you'd invest in a few periods and commas ....)

Last edited by scope103; 06-11-2013 at 05:10 PM.
Old 06-11-2013, 08:58 PM
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Yes I still have codes they instantly come back even if I clear them, idk what the timing is set to but I'm sure it's advanced because its kinda hard starting
The thing I find odd is that it shouldn't be backfiring out the exhaust if its advanced right ( btw it only backfires if I'm coasting in gear)
I'm borrowing a timing light tomorrow hopefully, rechecking the tps I replaced the other day i replaced the afm cleared the codes and it stik throws the codes so according to Haynes it's in the wiring or vaccuum switch circut
Any suggestions?
Old 06-11-2013, 10:53 PM
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Red face

Your throttle only gives the engine more air .

As your swapping out all these parts are you cleaning all the electrical connections ??

Have you tested the signal from the AFM to see if that is correct?? Along with the one you swapped in.

Was this one brand new out of the box??

Corroded connections could be the cause of all your problems !!!
Old 06-11-2013, 11:51 PM
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I'm not sure how you're getting all these parts, but it would certainly be faster (and probably a lot cheaper) to spend a little of that money on a timing light and a multimeter. Follow the diagnostic procedure in the FSM for the VAF (including the air temp sensor). Otherwise you're replacing a part when you know the part is good but the wiring bad.
Old 06-12-2013, 08:30 AM
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Tips

I would look at what is throwing the codes and check these sensors. If they check out you might focus on the tps. I have had several unrelated codes when my tps has gone out before.
Old 06-12-2013, 10:11 AM
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I buy parts from a guy that deals specifically in scrap cars so when a toyota comes in he keeps it longer than usual and sells parts to me for alittle more than scrap weight so honestly I spent like 6 buck for the afm, ecu, and throttle body so not a big deal there
I do agree that I should invest in a timing light but at the moment I don't have the money
I haven't cleaned connections but they looked great, ill test the afm, and the tps
My last tps had good idle and closed throttle but wouldn't even come close to the minimum spec for wot got to 2.5k but the minimum is supposed o be 3.3-10k
Old 06-12-2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreidel
... sells parts to me for a little more than scrap weight ...
All the more reason to test the part before you install it. Unless your time is worth less than $0.10 / hour, installing a free part that would have tested "bad" is poor economics.
Old 06-12-2013, 01:07 PM
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yeah fair enough i guess, im going to try to test everything later
Old 06-12-2013, 02:35 PM
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Red face

My head hurts!!

Your buying parts from Scrap Toyota Vehicles installing these thinking there all good.

i get the broke thing I been there Being Broke my time was even more valuable then to waste with parts of unknown quality electronic parts to boot. .

To me I would only use a used part if it was the only option and I have a fleet of Toyota`s here to strip

I would bet your worse off now then when you started.
Old 06-14-2013, 02:18 PM
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ok so i figured it out it runs great now, the problem was the "new" ecu was bad, not the original ecu its good
the reason the truck with the old ecu was missing all the time was because the tps was bad and causing a lean miss at idle. so when i replaced the bad tps with the good tps and the good ecu with the bad ecu it caused alot of different problems but fixed the lean miss
the other day i put the old ecu back in and it was still missing but that was because of the timing being so far out (about 10 degrees retarded) so once i set it back to 5 advanced (jumpered of course) it runs like a dream now
thank you to everyone who gave suggestions and help along the way and to terry87 who didnt post in the thread but has been helping me over the phone for awhile now
now just a new clutch, not a huge deal
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