edgarsoriano35

First time doing this timing chain driver side guide removal and installation on my 1990 22RE FI 4 cylinder truck. Now that I have replaced the broken plastic timing chain driver side guide with a new steel backed timing chain driver side guide and even after following very meticulously the instructions in the toyota manual in addition to the tutorial pages provided by this site, my damn truck failed to pick up speed although the RPM's were running high on its first run back on the road.

I do believe I successfully set the engine to TDC prior to removing the crankshaft pulley and proceeding with the other steps. I decided not to remove the original chain since I didn't find any abnormal signs of wear and tear. The only doubt that I had before re-installing the timing chain cover was that the timing chain had lost its tension ( due to the sprocket still attached to the timing chain falling off the camshaft (i did not have it tied down...ooops) ) and was rather loose. However, I had read on one of the forums that this loose chain was nothing out of the ordinary. Instead, I read that once the engine oil pressure was allowed to increase from the initial engine start up, the chain tensioner would then be pushed out by this pressurization of the oil and provide the necessary tension on the chain.

Long story short, everything was placed back in tip top shape and when I went to start the engine it did successfully turn on this first try! However, once I actually got out on the road I noticed that going from 1st to 2nd gear, the RPM's would run high while the truck would hardly pick up the appropriate velocity. In addition, the truck seemed to be forcing itself quite a bit. It basically had very little power. Engine hesitated much.

There are no leaks, the truck was filled with 5 quarts of new oil, spark plugs cleaned but not replaced, and filled with new coolant. The engine did not overheat either.

Will consider any advice. Thank you very much for your time and efforts!

LITLRED

Have you checked the timing?

d_sal

Were the spark plug wires reconnected in the correct order?

xcfunrunner

I agree with LITLRED. I would take a look at the timing. If you have a compression tester, you can test it very quick and easy.

edgarsoriano35

i will check on the timing and perform a compression test. the spark plugs were placed back properly. thanks for the advice!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

You mean wires right?

If your engine is bogging down, or starts and then dies right away, chances are you're off a timing chain/gear tooth on the cam gear. If your motor is just not running well, I agree timing may be off now.

edgarsoriano35

yeah, i meant wires! thanks for the additional advice, i'll get the timing checked out today and see what comes of it. thanks again!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

I assume you got the bright link lined back up with the cam dimple. On top of the other things mentioned, Verify the plug gaps and that the belts aren't overly tensioned and robbing power.

edgarsoriano35

the original timing chain remained on the camsprocket the entire time until it fell off and then i did my best to place the chain back on the cam sprocket as i thought i had seen it and comparing it to the photos i took. it's my gut feeling that the reason the chain became loose was for this reason. oddly enough though, when i inspected the chain for the first time i noticed that the person who placed the timing chain did not match the bright link to the dimples??? as for the plugs, they were replaced by the mechanic 2 months ago and so i decided to just give them a "scrape" cleaning. i coated them with boot gel and placed them back in in the same order. the 1 belt that runs the alternator, radiator fan, and crankshaft is the original (inspected well) and i re-positioned it as it would allow me to.

question now, as for my timing light, the red power lead cable connects to the red on the battery, the black power lead cable goes to the chassis, and the other cable simply gets clamped onto the exterior of #1 spark plug wire? if this is so, i think i can now go ahead and perform the timing job. oh, and do i need to connect the E1 adb E on the diagnostic cover circuit box (not sure what its called)? thanks guys!

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yes you need the jumper in the diagnostic port(aka DLC,diagnostics link connector) T(Te1) and E1, there are pictures or consult the book if your markings are worn off. The timing light connections sound correct, your owners manual should cover it if you have any doubts.

The reason I asked about the sparkplug gap is because cleaning can alter the setting, either by wedging or just from material removal. You can pick up a set of feeler guages from harborfreight for cheap or a key ring type sparkplug gapper from just about anywhere that sells plugs.

Your belt tension is likely fine, however if you're doing it without the proper tool it is easy to guess wrong and over tension them since most people need a lever of some sort to hold the tension and tighten the hold down. It's better to be a little loose than too tight. Way too loose is obviously a bad thing if it pops off, but a little loose just means you might get some slippage. Over tight ruins bearings, and seals! eg err on the side of caution.

Good luck with your timing adjustments, it'll likely clear up your issues.

edgarsoriano35

hey there Co 94 PU, i appreciate the time you took in your response. i will double check the spark plug gap with the gapper i have in my tool box! as for the fan belt, i didn't have to adjust any bolt that controls the tension of the belt. i either don't know of it or my engine just isn't equipped with one. in addition, i don't remember coming across a mentioning of it in the manual.

thanks for your time and i will be back either to boast of success or to ponder some more.

oh, and thanks for the much needed clarification of the diagnostic port.