Tdub12

22r motor I have tested a few times and replace plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, air filter, o2 sensor, rebuilt carb, cleaned and made sure egr worked, fixed vac leaks and prob something else I forgot.

First readings before some of the work.
15mph-co2(13.6),o2(1.3),HC(74),CO(.84),No(261)
25mph-co2(13.2),o2(1.2),HC 116,co 1.53, no275

After all the work and last test was

15mph co2(11.7), o2(1.4), HC 221ppm, CO 3.8%, no 558ppm
25mph co2(13.7), o2(1.2), HC 78ppm, Co(.3%) no 146ppm

Anyone have any idea what I should do next to get it to pass. Only thing I can think is a new cat thats the only thing I have not touched for a few years


Any help is appreciated

dark_fairytales

What are the current max. limits?

Tdub12

I dont have the paper but I know Hc max is around 123 and co is 1.28 max. Those are the ones I have a problem with. it now passes the 25mph but not the 15mph is there anything that could contribute to that?

Tdub12

Its an 87 22r motor if that helps. Would a new cat help high hc and high co. I have replaced everthing else.

wireguy

The high hc is excessive fuel leading to incomplete burn.

scope103

Here is some information on emissions chemistry. Your O2 is pretty high; combined with your high HC you could be running lean, but my guess is that your CAT is sleeping on the job; it should combine that O2 with the HC.

Of course, it would be a lot easier to answer the question if we knew what model/year vehicle we're talking about, the State conducting the smog test, and the actual "max" numbers.

Tdub12

these are the readings now the only thing not done is a cat but it is a lil expensive just to be gues

its an 87 toyota 4x4 pickup 22r motor, I live in California

Schrade

Lean burn = hot burn; too high NOx's

Rich burn = cool burn; high HC's.

EGR added to reduce burn temps; lower NOx's.


If your HC's are too hi, you could have leaking injectors, or low fuel pump pressure, or ruptured FPR bladder. All of which contribute to poor atomization spray, and unburned fuel boosting HC's in exhaust. Check your static fuel pressure, AND leakdown time.

Tdub12

I have replaced the fuel filter and i put a new fuel pump in a few months ago. I have a carb so I rebuilt it and checked all settings to make sure they are stock. I do not have access to do a leakdown test but might look into it.
The guy at the smog shop started to help me diagnose yesterday. We found out that the vacuum switches on the passenges side wheel well are not working. Both 1 and 2 are I am thinking this might tell the computer its under load when its not and make the mixture richer.

Schrade

I sorta blew that one here tdub (although the first 3 conditions ALWAYS APPLY); so let me re-phrase the second part here:

If your HC's are too hi, you could have a vacuum leak, which would prevent good carb venturi flow, and poor atomization (but which would ALSO cause loping [hunting] idle). All of which contribute to poor atomization spray, and unburned fuel boosting HC's in exhaust.

Your 25mph test is higher rpm, and usually results in a better burn quality. IDLE burn character shows problems in ANY motor. @ 15, that just above idle speed.

If the pintle on your EGR valve is fouled with carbon, which is like a vac leak, from exhaust gas (Exhaust Gas Recirculation VALVE), then it can be hung open, and lower burn temps - which = higher HC's, as you have.

SHort of finding what's actually wrong, there's 2 workarounds.

Ethyl alcohol added to your gas - more than is actually put INTO gas now anyway. Ethanol increases burn temps, and increased burn temps will lower your HC count, as noted above.

I can't remember exact amounts to get the proper burn mixture. But you have current numbers, you know how much gas is in the tank, and you'll have NEW numbers after the next attempt. Make sure to get them written down, including how much alcohol you put in.

The other workaround is blocking your thermostat for the test. This will raise burn temps, and lower HC's. WATCH the temperature. If it gets TOO hot, turn on the heat on max, fan on max too. And keep the hammer OFF the floor going to the shop.

Tdub12

I have checked everywhere for a vacuum leak I will check the egr valve. i have taken the egr off and cleaned and check that the valve works seems fine. I think I might try to run ethanol and see wat happens, anyone have any luck with this? I have heard of it before but I am a little skeptical.

Tdub12

I have an 87 pickup 22r motor that all the emission vacuum switches tested and work good and that passed like a brand new car. Has anyone had any trouble with the vacuum switches?

slow-mo

Entering the numbers on the smog report into the lambda calculator shows that your engine is running rich.

http://www.smogsite.com/calculators.html#lambda


You may have the Auxiliary Accelerator Pump (AAP) diaphragm on the carburetor leaking, which allows excess fuel into the engine.


If your 22R is an actual California model (I'm assuming it is as you state you have the two vacuum switches), you can also check the Electronic Bleed Control Valve (EBCV) on the left (passenger) side of the engine. It's located next to the vacuum switches. Since the California 22R uses a feedback carburetor to control emissions, it uses both those two vacuum switches to monitor vacuum, as well as the EBCV to add additional air into the fuel mixture. The EBCV is connected to the carb via 2 vacuum hoses.

Because the California carburetor is a feedback carburetor and can add air into the mixture, the jets inside the carburetor are larger in size.


What manufacture of oxygen sensor did you use?
.

Black306

Little trick that works for me is a splash of E85 in the tank before testing. Below are the results of my '92 3VZE pickup.

Tdub12

Does anyone know how to test the EBCV?

And where can I find E85 in California Ihavent seen it at any stations

Black306

Propel is popping up in places around Sacramento; they may be in your area too. Since a bunch of guys are switching to E85 as an alternative to race fuel, you might try Sonoma Raceway.